Ekona

Yeah, I think you guys might've missed the point of my rant Doesn't bother me at all, after all their costs go up every year and since I haggled them in the first place to get the cheapest quote I expect them to need to make their money back somehow. Ultimately if they're not competitive then I won't renew with them, but I'm not bothered at all what initial figure they come back with as long as they can get it to where I want it. For the record, we're not talking big sums of money here on mine: Maybe £40 over a £700 policy. Peanuts.

Bugger

I always like to try and give a balanced overview when I've finished dealing with a particular company, so let me do that here now with Sky Insurance. I had the 911 insured with them for about 3 years until I sold it in August. My initial dealings were friendly and efficient, as the folks I spoke to were certainly knowledgeable about both what I wanted from insurance and what they could offer me. Pricing was very competitive, about £100 more than the Admiral group but with far superior cover. All in, I'd say that between £600-£700 over the years was a more than fair price. Renewals were a breeze, and the quote they sent through was never so stupidly high that you thought they were taking the mick. Sure, there was a bit of haggling room, but that's the game and I don't begrudge them for that at all. They were happy to haggle as well, which was fine with me. Luckily, I never had to claim so I cannot pass judgement on that. However, cancelling the insurance was (and still is) a faff. I cancelled the insurance on the day the guy picked it up, about 15mins after he drove off. All seemed fine on the phone, spoke to a very nice person who said they could keep it open for a couple of weeks until I found a new car if I wanted, but that wasn't the case with me. I took the insurance out in February and cancelled in September, so I wasn't expecting any refund at all. To my surprise, I was due just over £100 back which was nice. You don't get that back straight away though, as Sky need it back from the insurer first, which can take up to 8 weeks. Oh well. All I needed to do was to send the old certificate back to them and they would process it. I posted the cert the next morning. I also asked for my proof of NCB as well, which I was told would be forwarded across. Four weeks later I hadn't heard anything, so gave them a call. Apparently they'd never received the cert so had done absolutely nothing, and now I'd lost another month worth of refund. Now, I appreciate that they must get the line "Oh yeah mate, I definitely sent it off!" all the time, however when you actually have sent it this becomes incredibly frustrating. Why did they not just call me after maybe a couple of weeks to say they've not had it? Yes, I could have called them, but given that I was told 8 weeks in the first place I actually thought I was pushing it calling after 4 weeks. I was then told I could just email a form over saying I'd lost my cert and that would be acceptable: Perhaps I could've been told about this in the first place? Form emailed, process started. Fast forward to Monday Nov 17th. I get a call in the evening saying that they'd got the refund back and could transfer it across to me. Brilliant, better late than never, very helpful lady on the phone. I then enquired as to whether I might get my NCB letter too now, to which I was informed that actually that wasn't her department and she'd speak to someone else for me about that. I've yet to receive it, but then again it's only been a couple of days. To sum up: Insurance cancelled by phone Sept 10th Cert posted Sept 11th Phonecall from me chasing around Oct 6th Phonecall from Sky for refund Nov 17th STILL NO LETTER OF NCB That sours things significantly. Would I use them again? Well yes I would, as the price is competitive, however I would be much more forceful when ending the insurance with them. Maybe I just got caught in the loop and got the bad end, but certainly I would suggest communication could well be improved.

If you want to put them on, then put them on: As long as you like them, it doesn't matter what anyone else thinks

I guess it depends on how you feel about remakes, and how much you enjoyed GTAV the first time around. Certainly I feel it's the best game of the last generation, and experiencing it in a different way has brought new life into it.

Go back to the original and then tell me you can't see any difference. It's like night and day. Go through a tunnel and look at the light reflections on the car (like when you try and get the boat back). Or when the sun is rising first thing. Or dive in the water and take a swim. You're playing in 1st person, yes?

Ask yourself what Nissan was aiming for when they designed the OEM suspension, and you'll know if you want to change it. To save the time, I'll tell you: A balance between comfort and sportiness (more towards the comfort spectrum) and longevity. The 350 is a GT car, and has very soft suspension if you wanted a sports car. Just ask the guys who have tracked theirs on OEM suspension and they'll tell you roll is a major factor, certainly was on mine! You can of course run something stiffer and accept the sacrifices made towards comfort, and whilst adjustable options will let you dial in as much as you want they'll never get back to OEM squidgyness. Nissan designers/engineers are very good, but they're not suspension experts. We've not had a modern Nissan with what you would class as world-class suspension: 350 JDM is too stiff, 350 EU is too soft, GT-R is rock hard, and I won't even bother with the more generic stuff. KW and Ohlins are the masters of aftermarket suspension when it comes to performance (along with Nitron), as that's all they do. I'd personally only class Lotus as better, but you're unlikely to convince them to make you some shocks for a 350 It all comes down to a personal preference of what is 'better'. Better for me would be stiffer to stop roll, better for others would be softer to soak up the bumps. That's where Lotus are masters, as their cars can do both.

Now if only we had a for sale section...

About time too, P3 and P2 were practically the same anyway!

The car physics seem to be twitcher, but I suspect that's just where I've not played it in a year.

Yup, that's how I do it in my truck

GTAV on the Xbone is amazeballs

That's what I was thinking, or even maybe someone local could grab them and deliver for beer money, or just meet you half way?

DPD. They are the best courier out there by some margin, but I suspect they're not cheap. Where in Oxfordshire to where in Cambridgeshire?

Yeah, £114 is taking the urine a bit, especially on a new car!

Nah, I'd be absolutely astounded if that caused the issue at all. I mean, in theory the cats might not have warmed up and you could have made the engine run a bit rich at one point by accelerating too much too soon, but it's a very unlikely set of conditions and I've personally never heard of that happening on an NA car. Given they're smaller cats and heat up quicker than OEM, I'm even more prone to discard that idea. I'd leave them in and just fit the spacers, if you have further problems after that then possibly look at removing them but I don't see that happening. Last thing we want to do is make your 370ZN even quieter again!

Delete code and see if it returns. It's not something to worry about at all, and will do zero harm to carry on driving with that code. However, that would then hide the presence of another code if you get a more serious problem, so not great for long term. i would check your HFCs, as they might be breaking down causing this code. Highly unlikely, but worth a check. Either way, a couple of spacers for £30 would get this problem done and dusted

My thoughts: Option 1: One benefit you haven't mentioned is that this would enable you to charge your phone at the same time, ensuring you're never left without power. Now, granted that means you getting your phone out of your pocket to do so, but using it as a navigation device. If you have it mounted at the correct level, then you wouldn't need spoken directions (indeed, I find them irritating so always turn them off!). Data streaming maps would be a no-go, however you'd simply buy TomTom for iOS and use that instead for £35. I have the UK, Europe and US versions, and they're all superb. Pop a new head unit in and you've got your streaming as well, as you say. This has the added benefit that you always have your satnav with you, regardless of vehicle. Option 2: I don't see a massive benefit here over the above option. Sure, it will be a bigger screen, but it will also be further away than the iPhone so maybe negligible difference? That's where I had mine mounted when I had a Zed, and although it worked well it's not something I would use these days as satnav on phones is a much more realistic and usable proposition. Option 3: I personally wouldn't touch App Radio with a bargepole until a couple of generations down the line.

Indeed: With the days on the NIMBYs well and truly ahead of us, it's vital that we all make a hugely concerted effort to reduce all our exhaust noises when on track as much as possible. No point having a nice sounding car when a helmet drowns out the noise anyway, and no point chasing every last bhp when it's not a race Always sucks to see someone get booted from a track, but I would suggest that your setup is louder than you think if it breached the limits: I ran there with a K1 with bungs in and had no issues, and even with the bungs it's not particularly quiet...! 95dB is really quite loud fella, you should be looking to reduce that significantly. I'd be looking to replace the backbox with an OEM one for track use, as that would be the easiest thing to swap out on a driveway.

On the MPS3 it's not noticeable, so I maintain it's irrelevant Which tyres were those then? For the most part, it's quite difficult to tell the difference between regular and XL, so bravo on being able to do so, most folks can't!

He's a bit like watching wrestling. You know it's fake, but it's still entertaining.

So did you have them all running on low then? What gfx card you running again? AMD cards are significantly worse off with ACU.

XL = Extra Load, irrelevant if it does or doesn't have this for the Zed MO = Merc specific AO = Audi specific You can fit MO, AO, or any other specific tyres to any vehicle, but you'll pay a premium. With those, just buy the cheapest ones.

Aiming for 60fps won't be the issue, it'll be the graphics settings. There's loads in there: Environment/Shadow/Texture quality, occlusion, AA, bloom etc. Try turning those down, even on the lowest settings it should still look pretty.

How bad? What settings are you using? What FPS are you getting? I thought FPS didn't matter Just wondering how far below 30 you were dropping, and on what settings. It doesn't seem very scaleable on the PC at all.