Ekona

That's just manufacturer-specific codes, they mean nothing in reality. Just buy a decent 5w-30 fully synth and you'll be fine. Pretty much anything will do, apart from Magnatec which goes like sex on a boat* when warm, *F*cking near water

An hour is plenty of time for it to settle. 15mins is more than enough! I know it's a pain reading the gauge, but it's possible with perseverance. It's hard to figure out where and when you got your good reading, but if it's on your drive which is on an incline then you still don't have a good reading, and adding 20% of the entire sump capacity without being confident on what's in there can be equally or more catastrophic as running around with it a little under the min mark. It's probably fine, but you've no idea at this point. All you need to do it jack it up, remove the sump plug and drain it into a suitable container (something like this is ideal) and then you can measure it accurately. Grab one of these too and you can replace the washer on the sump plug too, we're really talking peanuts here and it's and incredibly simply task. Given you're only two weeks from a service then there's an argument for not bothering, but at this point you can buy the oil & filter yourself (here) and save yourself that cost. No need to pay the garage to do it then, and you'll know exactly how much you've put in and what that looks like on YOUR driveway, even with the incline you can then measure it perfectly every time.* Hell, come round to mine and I'll do it for you, you only need the oil, filter and sump washer then. *No, I know in the ideal world you should always measure on a flat surface, but many people live near slopes and as long as you're confident on what you've put in, there's no harm at all in measureing like this. It's just not best practice

Capable, yes. But more power means you're capable of going much faster much more quickly, which means you need a better way of dissipating the heat you're generating. Granted though, this does assume that you actually make use of the power. If you only cruise around posing in the car, then I concede that better brakes aren't needed. However, given that it's possible to overwhelm Brembos on an NA Zed on the road given the right conditions, then you can see why I'd suggest that brakes are a must-do upgrade if you're moving into bigger power and intend to use it.

Because unless you only ever accelerate at the pace of an NA car, you end up needing to either brake from much a higher speed given the same length of road, or you're braking much more often as you're covering the ground quicker. It does assume that the driver makes the most of the extra power available, but you'd be mad not to or have the patience of a saint!

Suspension fine, but updated discs, pads, lines and fluid an absolute must.

How far below? How much did you have to top up by?

Seats, steering wheel, wrap, BGW. In order of likeliness to happen.

So is Porsche

I'd be amazed if your Impreza can tow a 350Z + trailer. You're looking at around 3-500kg for a trailer, then another 1500kg for the 350, so that's about 2000kg for the lot. I'm not sure an Impreza can tow that much? EDIT Quick google looks like 900kg is the max braked weight for an STi, but do check your documentation as that's for a US car.

The 12C never really did it for me, the outside just wasn't exciting enough. They got it bang-on with the 650 though, that just looks exactly like a supercar should. I'd still take the 458 over either, despite my hatred for the brand The 12C is an absolute bargain right now though in terms of performance, it really don't half get a shift on.

That's all I could see in my head when you guys posted that back to back

Oh you had to go there

No, my point was: You're talking about 'settling' for a set of wheels. I'm talking about people actually getting the wheels they want, rather than just getting something that happens to be available in the right size. It's like me saying to you why did you buy the wheels you've got, when there's a lovely set of Wolfrace wheels in Halfords that fit even better? You wouldn't dream of doing that, would you? No, you get the wheels you actually want. I could've got any one of a billionty set of M-style knockoff wheels for my car which would've fitted perfectly, but I didn't want them. I wanted a set of Rotas that I fell in love with, so got them then added spacers to make them work*. That was my choice, as I didn't want to spend £££ on having a custom set made for me nor did I want a set of wheels I didn't like the look of. Every man and his dog runs Rotas or XXRs on 350s, so I can see why some people would want to get something a little different even if they're perhaps compromising slightly on the perfect 'stance' (I really hate that term!) in your eyes to get to where they want. Is that not fair enough? *Well, ish before anyone says anything!

I was actually trying to be helpful rather than antagonistic. You're clearly a guy who is pretty capable of doing stuff, so I'd have expected you to get the proper resistors as per this excellent guide here and do it yourself. Surely makes more sense for a quick 30min job than faffing around again, no?

Okay, so let's say I want a set of Volks in some obscure offset that they don't actually make. How much do you think they'll charge me to make a set just for me? Here's a clue: It won't be cheap. If they don't make the perfect set, you have to compromise. A good set of wheels can easy cost £2k without trying, £700 is a budget wheel in the market.

I won't hear a bad word said against Daisy. You take that back, you!

Might as well put the resistor in now if you're planning on removing the seats again anyway, save having the light flashing and then it's sorted for all the MOTs you'll have in the future.

Well, someone has to correct people when they're talking rubbish, might as well be me. Some folks simply can't afford £5k for a custom set of wheels, or if they can they may feel that the money is better spent elsewhere. Yup, I do run spacers for the exact reasons I gave.

Probably because they can't buy the wheels they want in the size/offset they want, or they can't afford it.

F*ck it, I'd claim, make her suffer as well at least.

Round corners, yes. In a straight line or in differing conditions, no. Think about what a diff does, and how it works, and you have your answer. I don't have an LSD in mine, but I'd like to get one at some point as I just p*ss power away exiting from slow corners.

It won't help traction at all in the wet. The only time a diff really works is on tighter corners where you have to really slow down, but a different diff won't help you out any more than the OEM one would if it's raining. The only thing that will is decent rubber and a gentle foot. It's an awful lot of money to spend when you could probably put it to better use elsewhere tbh.

The arch gap would be exactly the same size. It would just look smaller. The issue isn't the wheels, it's the suspension.

Not sure I'd worry about suspension or diff, but he's done the clutch already. Brakes definitely though!

If not DIY, then I reckon you'd be looking around £8K for the lot, allowing a safety net in that budget.