Ekona

Might as well put the resistor in now if you're planning on removing the seats again anyway, save having the light flashing and then it's sorted for all the MOTs you'll have in the future.

Well, someone has to correct people when they're talking rubbish, might as well be me. Some folks simply can't afford £5k for a custom set of wheels, or if they can they may feel that the money is better spent elsewhere. Yup, I do run spacers for the exact reasons I gave.

Probably because they can't buy the wheels they want in the size/offset they want, or they can't afford it.

F*ck it, I'd claim, make her suffer as well at least.

Round corners, yes. In a straight line or in differing conditions, no. Think about what a diff does, and how it works, and you have your answer. I don't have an LSD in mine, but I'd like to get one at some point as I just p*ss power away exiting from slow corners.

It won't help traction at all in the wet. The only time a diff really works is on tighter corners where you have to really slow down, but a different diff won't help you out any more than the OEM one would if it's raining. The only thing that will is decent rubber and a gentle foot. It's an awful lot of money to spend when you could probably put it to better use elsewhere tbh.

The arch gap would be exactly the same size. It would just look smaller. The issue isn't the wheels, it's the suspension.

Not sure I'd worry about suspension or diff, but he's done the clutch already. Brakes definitely though!

If not DIY, then I reckon you'd be looking around £8K for the lot, allowing a safety net in that budget.

Wouldn't worry about it at all. If you were at 150k then maybe I'd do some bits, but not at 80k. Self install?

Exactly. The only miles you do are fun miles. Trust me, you've massively upset the balance of your car. Unless you've done it for a dynamic purpose and are an exceptional driver and it's for track use, then that's a very dangerous thing you've done there. Even if your driving is amazing, it's the unexpected things that other idiots do that will catch you out. Your car is ace, but please don't do things like that without an understanding of the changes you're making. These cars MUST have a stagger to keep them balanced, else they can transition to snap oversteer incredibly quickly. Is your car not worth more to you than that?

http://www.legislati.../1986/1078/made Boom, there you go. Reg 63 covers wings (referring to wheel arches, not spoilers) and states: OR http://www.legislati.../52/section/40A The RTA states: So sticky out wheels and tyres could be proven to be hazardous to pedestrians in court, but again there's NO exact numbers or figures for this. You may well read about a 30mm protrusion limit for wheels and 75% of tyre covered by the plan view of the bodywork, however this is for SVA (now IVA) cars only and DOES NOT apply to modified factory-built cars. It all depends on how a court views these laws, rather than defined numbers. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the official answer. No ifs or buts, that's the exact law which you will be tried upon in court.

Erm, you really need to change that before you end up in the proverbial ditch. Keep at least a 20mm stagger front to rear, else you'll have an incredibly oversteery car.

No, I completely agree with your decision, totally the right thing to do Exactly how I run mine, the extra sidewall makes for a much more compliant drive plus you get more feedback when loading the tyre up too. What width tyres are you running on the front btw?

I'm just messing, it looks great and it's a lovely colour. Surprised those wheels are only 18" though, they look bigger to my eyes, you've done a great job with selecting those and the drop suits it perfectly

Chop chop then, where's this magical spec list?! Wrap looks decent from here, who did it?

It might, if the revs are sky high when it suddenly regains the traction and starts putting power to the wheels on a wet surface. I have no idea of the experience of the OP, so he may well not be familiar with how the drivetrain works. it certainly sounds like he has a binary throttle in any case.

He's wrong. Any cone intake will suck in more hot air than a panel filter, which will give less power. That said, I'd stick with the cone filter as whilst you'll never notice an extra 2bhp, you will notice the better noise and that's worth far more to the driving experience IMHO.

Pot, kettle, black. Generally speaking, there are some things that just look utterly gash. If you still like it then that's cool, but that doesn't make it stylish or cool. It just means you have bad taste.

No, it shouldn't do that at all. Are you sure it's spinning the wheels, and it's not actually the clutch slipping?

It's not a noob question, in fact I'm pretty sure no-one has ever asked that question before on here. And for that, I'm pretty grateful. No reason not to try, but there's definitely such a thing as too much colour coding. Also, air filters get dirty pretty quickly, so you're going to have to keep on top of it if you want the colour to stay.

Non uk plug socket issue?

Are they the right sizes? What tyres are they? Diff I wouldn't imagine is the issue, although not impossible. What you're describing doesn't sound right to me at all, so I'd tend to look at the tyres first too.

Lambo isn't that exciting, not in four laps. It's prettier to look at, but for visceral inputs I'd pick the 360. And I don't like the 360! You can easy blag a test drive in a Lambo any time. Trying to achieve that in an Atom is significantly more difficult.

It's a diesel, it sounds like a tractor. Even the FFRR TDV8 sounds gash, despite it being a V8. I digress though, as I don't know if it's needed to fit either. Give SS a call I reckon, they should be open today.