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Ekona

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Everything posted by Ekona

  1. Wouldn't worry about it at all. If you were at 150k then maybe I'd do some bits, but not at 80k. Self install?
  2. Exactly. The only miles you do are fun miles. Trust me, you've massively upset the balance of your car. Unless you've done it for a dynamic purpose and are an exceptional driver and it's for track use, then that's a very dangerous thing you've done there. Even if your driving is amazing, it's the unexpected things that other idiots do that will catch you out. Your car is ace, but please don't do things like that without an understanding of the changes you're making. These cars MUST have a stagger to keep them balanced, else they can transition to snap oversteer incredibly quickly. Is your car not worth more to you than that?
  3. http://www.legislati.../1986/1078/made Boom, there you go. Reg 63 covers wings (referring to wheel arches, not spoilers) and states: OR http://www.legislati.../52/section/40A The RTA states: So sticky out wheels and tyres could be proven to be hazardous to pedestrians in court, but again there's NO exact numbers or figures for this. You may well read about a 30mm protrusion limit for wheels and 75% of tyre covered by the plan view of the bodywork, however this is for SVA (now IVA) cars only and DOES NOT apply to modified factory-built cars. It all depends on how a court views these laws, rather than defined numbers. And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the official answer. No ifs or buts, that's the exact law which you will be tried upon in court.
  4. Erm, you really need to change that before you end up in the proverbial ditch. Keep at least a 20mm stagger front to rear, else you'll have an incredibly oversteery car.
  5. No, I completely agree with your decision, totally the right thing to do Exactly how I run mine, the extra sidewall makes for a much more compliant drive plus you get more feedback when loading the tyre up too. What width tyres are you running on the front btw?
  6. I'm just messing, it looks great and it's a lovely colour. Surprised those wheels are only 18" though, they look bigger to my eyes, you've done a great job with selecting those and the drop suits it perfectly
  7. Chop chop then, where's this magical spec list?! Wrap looks decent from here, who did it?
  8. Ekona

    Traction

    It might, if the revs are sky high when it suddenly regains the traction and starts putting power to the wheels on a wet surface. I have no idea of the experience of the OP, so he may well not be familiar with how the drivetrain works. it certainly sounds like he has a binary throttle in any case.
  9. He's wrong. Any cone intake will suck in more hot air than a panel filter, which will give less power. That said, I'd stick with the cone filter as whilst you'll never notice an extra 2bhp, you will notice the better noise and that's worth far more to the driving experience IMHO.
  10. Pot, kettle, black. Generally speaking, there are some things that just look utterly gash. If you still like it then that's cool, but that doesn't make it stylish or cool. It just means you have bad taste.
  11. Ekona

    Traction

    No, it shouldn't do that at all. Are you sure it's spinning the wheels, and it's not actually the clutch slipping?
  12. It's not a noob question, in fact I'm pretty sure no-one has ever asked that question before on here. And for that, I'm pretty grateful. No reason not to try, but there's definitely such a thing as too much colour coding. Also, air filters get dirty pretty quickly, so you're going to have to keep on top of it if you want the colour to stay.
  13. Ekona

    Traction

    Are they the right sizes? What tyres are they? Diff I wouldn't imagine is the issue, although not impossible. What you're describing doesn't sound right to me at all, so I'd tend to look at the tyres first too.
  14. Lambo isn't that exciting, not in four laps. It's prettier to look at, but for visceral inputs I'd pick the 360. And I don't like the 360! You can easy blag a test drive in a Lambo any time. Trying to achieve that in an Atom is significantly more difficult.
  15. It's a diesel, it sounds like a tractor. Even the FFRR TDV8 sounds gash, despite it being a V8. I digress though, as I don't know if it's needed to fit either. Give SS a call I reckon, they should be open today.
  16. Watch that and make your mind up. These guys are the definitive go-to for sim racing stuff, and they're the reason I went for the TX unit. However, given the price difference and the fact that playing a racing game with a pad is like eating your dinner with a guitar, I'd say go for it!
  17. My Dad's getting on pretty well with his, only early days though but fingers crossed it looks like a winner. He's sticking with the tobacco flavor right now, but hopefully he'll try something less stinky
  18. Whatever you pick, you won't come close to mastering on track, so if that's the only reason to discount the Atom then I'd reconsider.
  19. Need as in fit, or need as in power increase? Ask SS directly for the former, if it's for the latter then I still would. No point in doing things by halves You won't get a decent noise from a diesel though, regardless of exhaust layout. Btw, and I'm sure you know this, but DPF removal is insta-fail on the MOT now.
  20. I finally managed to get under the car today, around my mate's house who owns both a garage with a pit and an E64 645 convertible. The main job of the day was to replace the lower wishbone on his OSF which had a knackered bush at 67k miles (interestingly all mine are fine at 110k miles), which was going fine until we stripped the knobbles from the inside of the captive Torx bolt that holds the ball joint end of that wishbone to the hub. Quick run through with the angle grinder fixed that though! Actually not a bad job when you're past that, plenty of room to work and sensible sized bolts help. We also had a quick comparison of exhausts. We both went to the same place, had the work carried out by the same guy. Both out final silencers are identical, however I still have one single merging collector (like an x-pipe) and a couple of mid-silencers in place too, all OEM. He has none of that, just straight pipes with a small silencer on each that goes straight to the rear silencers. Result? Well, mine is louder, despite having more silencers on! Anyone have any idea why this might be? Pipework is the same size (well, there's 5mm in it in diameter but I don't think that's anything), so could it be that mine crosses with an x-pipe and his is dual all the way? I know that an x-pipe is best for power to scavenge the pulses on a crossplane V8, but I can't believe it would be quieter?! All thoughts on the matter welcomed. Anyway, onto my car. The reason I wanted to get under was to change the ARB settings, as it's too awkward to do on a driveway. I had them set at max stiffness at the front, and middle setting at the rear. This was giving me far too much understeer, which meant that tuning the dampers was proving a difficult task: Remember, fine tuning is always done with the dampers, get the big stuff done first. I've now set the front ARB to the loosest setting (furthest from the pivot point), and the rear... Well, remember I said it was set up in the middle? Turns out they'd installed it to max stiffness! Not actually an issue as I was going to do that anyway, so I've left that alone. Result? Night and day. It's beautiful! Where I had chronic understeer before, to the point of trail braking before every single corner to get any confidence that the nose would actually turn in, I now have a wonderfully adept front end that turns just as it should. Or rather, just like it used to. Now that may seem odd that I've spent all this money to get back to where I was, but let's remember that I've got a completely safe geo on here right now with so much toe in that it's massively blunting the front end still, so once I get the geo back to my favoured toe out settings I expect to see massive gains again. I can also then start playing with the dampers. As I said last time out, I've set them to very soft to try and regain some compliance as the BCs are stiffer than OEM even on the softest setting, which isn't ideal but I can work round that I think now the ARBs are set correctly. A touch more damping at the front compared to the rear can now be attempted, which is how it should be. Either way, I'm now feeling far more confident about the changes I've made to the car. It doesn't stop me wanting a 911, but I'm really enjoying having something with this much charisma and such a wonderful sound to play with. Having done the tyres, dampers, springs and ARBs, I know I've a much faster car than if I'd spent £2500 aiming for a few more horses, which reinforces just why I keep banging on about how important it is to get a good handling car rather than chasing horsepower. Although I guess I can be a little blasé with 330ft/lb at just 3k rpm... For the record, that's 20ft/lb more than I had in the 911!
  21. Ekona

    Upgraded HID's

    I've got a couple of tea lights that are better than the OEM ones Good effort, looks much better and like you say the added illumination makes life so much easier
  22. I'm not religious, so he (He ) doesn't get a capital
  23. Unless the 360 is a manual, I wouldn't touch it. Likewise the Gallardo. R8 or Vantage have the noise, but again they'd have to be manuals to be anything close to enjoyable. F-Type not special enough to be an experience.
  24. Dear god someone correct the title before I go insane
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