Ekona

Sorry, I meant that when I was in a band we'd have loved to get our music out there to people by letting it be used in that way, as opposed to me making vids with other people's music on it. I really need to start making music again. Haven't done it for a while now.

You could grab some music authoring software and write your own rock-based music using free samples, or even just contact a few local bands and ask them for a track to use. From experience, most will only be too happy to get their music out there.

That'll be the wheels as much as the springs. All aftermarket springs are stiffer than stock, and I don't believe the Teins are particularly harsh. With 19" wheels you get extra unsprung mass that needs to move at every bump in the road, plus you have less tyre sidewall to absorb the compressions. Changing springs to the softest ones you can find will only affect the ride marginally, and of course they're the OEM ones which will also raise the car up. Ultimately it's a choice between living with a car that looks good or one that rides well. You could replace all dampers and springs with something like the KW v3, but then we're in a whole new world of budget. Cheaper options like the BC (which I really like, and run them on all my cars) won't really help as they're still stiffer than stock but not as compliant as the KW.

Until people who bought them as an investment realise they're dropping in price so bin them quickly at a lower price to minimise loss, when then starts everyone doing the same. Or those that bought them to drive at £35k now realise they can't afford to run them, so need to get shot quickly but their car now needs major work so isn't worth as much. Optimistic maybe, but this all happened before too in the last crash, so I reckon we've half a chance again The very best examples never will though, you're right on those only going up.

Flywheel won't make any difference to how the clutch feels.

Gotcha In theory no, no difference at all between clutches or gearboxes in the coupe or roadster.

The first half of that is incredibly well shot, looks nigh-on professional The music is terrible though, it just doesn't suit the vid at all. Ditch that, get an action cam to stick on the outside of the car for some shots on the move and that would be an incredible little vid. Lot of raw talent there I reckon

New houses are sh*t, with their tiny-arse garages that you can't get a Fisher Price car into, much less a proper car. Is it a case of it physically won't fit, or its just tight? Bear in mind once you're past the door you get a few more inches as the garage opens up. I only had a couple of inches to spare in my old house on the door frame, but once in I could open the door pretty easily.

Could be wear, could be aftermarket clutch. Impossible to tell. Unless yours starts slipping, I wouldn't worry about any difference. Driving style can make a lot of difference to the wear, but unless he's dragging the clutch on changes I don't think that's an issue here.

Don't worry, what goes up must come down

Trust me, duct tape.

I repeated what Alex said because it looked like you were posting the exact opposite of what he said directly after his post, which was still wrong. The lack of quotation tags meant that I mistook your post to mean that you still didn't understand the difference. Your error, I just ran with it

Duct tape works best.

It won't affect the paintwork at all. I'd be more concerned with it falling off tbh! Make sure you clean the area you want to stick it to before suctioning, just a microfibre and a bit of QD will do.

ARGH NO ONE EVER IN THE HISTORY OF THE WORLD MAKES DAMPERS WITH CAMBER ADJUSTMENT ON, DUE TO THE DOUBLE WISHBONE DESIGN. TO GET CAMBER ADJUSTMENT YOU NEED NEW A ARMS. Tough crowd in here tonight, eh Alex?!

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pv-98469-fuchs-titan-xtr-5w-30-high-performance-fuel-economy-fully-synthetic-engine-oil-service-pack-5-litres.aspx?vehicleid=11972&yearfilter=2004&FitmentNotes= That'll be fine.

That's just manufacturer-specific codes, they mean nothing in reality. Just buy a decent 5w-30 fully synth and you'll be fine. Pretty much anything will do, apart from Magnatec which goes like sex on a boat* when warm, *F*cking near water

An hour is plenty of time for it to settle. 15mins is more than enough! I know it's a pain reading the gauge, but it's possible with perseverance. It's hard to figure out where and when you got your good reading, but if it's on your drive which is on an incline then you still don't have a good reading, and adding 20% of the entire sump capacity without being confident on what's in there can be equally or more catastrophic as running around with it a little under the min mark. It's probably fine, but you've no idea at this point. All you need to do it jack it up, remove the sump plug and drain it into a suitable container (something like this is ideal) and then you can measure it accurately. Grab one of these too and you can replace the washer on the sump plug too, we're really talking peanuts here and it's and incredibly simply task. Given you're only two weeks from a service then there's an argument for not bothering, but at this point you can buy the oil & filter yourself (here) and save yourself that cost. No need to pay the garage to do it then, and you'll know exactly how much you've put in and what that looks like on YOUR driveway, even with the incline you can then measure it perfectly every time.* Hell, come round to mine and I'll do it for you, you only need the oil, filter and sump washer then. *No, I know in the ideal world you should always measure on a flat surface, but many people live near slopes and as long as you're confident on what you've put in, there's no harm at all in measureing like this. It's just not best practice

Capable, yes. But more power means you're capable of going much faster much more quickly, which means you need a better way of dissipating the heat you're generating. Granted though, this does assume that you actually make use of the power. If you only cruise around posing in the car, then I concede that better brakes aren't needed. However, given that it's possible to overwhelm Brembos on an NA Zed on the road given the right conditions, then you can see why I'd suggest that brakes are a must-do upgrade if you're moving into bigger power and intend to use it.

Because unless you only ever accelerate at the pace of an NA car, you end up needing to either brake from much a higher speed given the same length of road, or you're braking much more often as you're covering the ground quicker. It does assume that the driver makes the most of the extra power available, but you'd be mad not to or have the patience of a saint!

Suspension fine, but updated discs, pads, lines and fluid an absolute must.

How far below? How much did you have to top up by?

Seats, steering wheel, wrap, BGW. In order of likeliness to happen.

So is Porsche

I'd be amazed if your Impreza can tow a 350Z + trailer. You're looking at around 3-500kg for a trailer, then another 1500kg for the 350, so that's about 2000kg for the lot. I'm not sure an Impreza can tow that much? EDIT Quick google looks like 900kg is the max braked weight for an STi, but do check your documentation as that's for a US car.