3FIDDYZ

I don't think 14.7:1 is considered optimal at all for a car running at full throttle. Maximum power is delivered around Lambda 0.86-0.88 which is more like AFR 12.5 - 12.8:1, depending on the octane of the fuel being used. Lamda 1.00 (AFR approx. 14.7) is considered optimal for emissions via a catalytic convertor and is what you need to be running at idle to pass an MOT emissions test. Lamda 1.05 (approx AFR 15.0 - 15.5:1) would be best for fuel economy in light throttle, low MAP cruising conditions. A car running an AFR of 14.7:1 at full throttle would not last long at all, especially if forced induction was involved. A turbo or supercharged car might have to run nearer 12.0 or 11.5:1 to keep the EGTs down and to be able to run a decent amount of ignition timing. The ECU should adjust it's target AFR depending on MAP (manifold absolute pressure) level so there's no reason you couldn't have all of these conditions being met in a single map. Regarding dyno graphs showing flywheel HP, I think there is some value to these provided they are taken with a small pinch of salt. Firstly corrections can be applied to take into account differing atmospheric conditions from day to day to make runs more comparable. Also having an idea of the transmissions losses can be useful as if they are abnormally high then it would indicate something like a sticking brake caliper. If you didn't attempt to measure the coastdown losses then you perhaps wouldn't see this problem and would just think you got a crap result. That was one of my questions, does the reflash give you a single map based on your current setup or does it give you multipul maps like the stock ECU that are used dependant on ambiant temps / conditions?

Sorry chris but I dont trust any dyno unless I have a comparison to check against... I know conditions can make that vary but you can get those close... My dyno sheet is in my thread about the chip so wont post in here and also it dosnt have the numbers on the axis but IIRC its between 12 and 13 but both the air and fule are pretty constant, just not starting at 13.5 and then dropping off... Anyway, would love to get a professionals opinion on the AFR as am sure injectors and pump will come into play,

FIVE-ZIG-EN And yeh they are good

? Conversion to what?

Does the cost of the reflash include any additional reflashs in the future? ie for additional mods Which one of the maps does the reflash control or is it a case it wipes all the maps on the ECU and puts on just one or 2 dependant on the clients requirments? Whats your commitment to returning the ECU to stock in the event of an issue and it needs to go back to Nissan (ie for warantee work)? Ie do you take a copy of the original ECU maps and store them... If so how many of those Maps are you storing? Cause there are a few! No torque numbers on the at wheel graph, have you got those? Have you done an further Zeds to do a comparison between Zeds including JDM's. Also, just to get a comparisson based on what the gains are, would you be prepared to stick the car (or would the owner of the car) be prepared to stick the car on another dyno just to get a comparison? Also, I think you may want to mask the owners name and reg... not a great thing on a public forum! Can anyone explaine the AFR drop off? Just wondering because on mine it stays pretty constant all the way through the run...

PC for me but as Rob says check how they heat them to finish the coating... It has been known to crack wheels... And not just GT4's I think Envy posted up on one of the forums about acceptable temps some time ago. If you want a 2nd opinion try wickedwheels in crawley, bit of a trek for you but I have used them and am very happy with the results!

wow all that money for 24 bhp maybe?, could use that mnoney and trade in your zed and get a gtr. Would love to see your maths on that one!! Esp if your talking about an R35!

Frikin top ballin Ian!! Think the timing cover needs to be black to show off all the bling, and easier to keep clean!!!

? Your Zed must have come with some ltd edition Zed seats if they "look just like" marzman!! Looking sweet Ian, looking forward to the next installment!

shame Mark , strange bilberry has done that seen as its not really got anything in it to do that... You tried claying them? As has been said dont use autosol its too harsh... I wouldnt have thought you have got under the clearcoat, its not that thick but again its not that thin! And as you have been wacking on loads of wax it could be that.. Clay should just take the wax off and you will see if you have really scared them... You shouldnt really have to use a strong bilberry yet, your normal shampoo should have done the the trick as the wheels are brand new and considering the recent weather deffo not dirty! or not that dirty... Did you snowfoam the wheels and then bilberry? As it looks like the residue is where the water that still has soap in it has collected and sat..... Also did you jet wash them after? If so, try just using the hose close to the wheel on and around each spoke and behind the wheel... Best way to stop that, get a leaf blower and give them a blast to get the water out of the nooks and cranies... Anyhow! hope you sort it...

Easy to take the bumper on and off on your own... You just need the guide to make sure you have all the bolts undone! Easier to do with axel stands or a trolly jack!

Mmmmmm Proper Bo, I tell thee!

Nope not me, mine is in the garage being tinkered with unless its not being tinkered with and its now being tested!!!

Was there Friday, what a great day... Loved the white and the Yellow, saw the blue but missed a fellow 350z owner Paul getting a run up the hill in it, saw him afterwards and he was beaming!

Hes going with traditional japanese and kneeling... Hes just trying to work out how to operate the pedals!! Either that or hes still going for rare WDM parts!

Are these the guys that work with Dixon Motorsports in Erith? If so, I havnt used them but I have seen their work and it looks very good. If its not them then I cant vouch!

Few pairs in the draw for me, but I did get rid of most of my collection last year! most are oaklys but I did pick up a nice pair of polorised Tag Heuer ones the other day for a bargain price! 50% off at House of Fraser... IMO polorised lens are better than the oakleys I have had in the past...!

They look amazing Your so predictable!! But I do agree!

I dont think many people have owned both models but on speaking to an owner on Sunday that had had that pleasure he said the 07MY was far better than his previous one which I think was an 04... You can still get a brand spankers for about 20k, as I think there are a few left (call Dave at Marshalls for info on current stocks of brand new cars)... Considering its a 30k+ car and as is the 370z, I dont see them depriciating like a stone, its still a 10k difference so it should hold for a year or so, that is unless the govt bring in the uprated tax and then we are all proper fooked!

Its back in again!!! Free'd up? You mean some cheaper ones

Its an Import... IanS16 found 300+ dont see any reason why he couldnt find 328 on an import in the hands of the right tuner and a forgiving set of rollers!! is the ECU on the imports more forgiving than uk cars? Not about the ECU... Its about what engine timings and perameters you change with any piggyback or aftermarket ECU.... And it seems that the Import ECU's (Cause of the emissions controls / taxs of the country of origin) are more forgiving to the changing to aftermarket parts. Unfortunaltly Ians16 didnt have numbers before he ran the Nismo chip but his after results are pretty good. The nismo chip will be set with certain parameters for timing etc and will set the engine to work with those.. Cant remember if Ians numbers where wheel or fly... If you speak to Tomi or Mines in japan, they wont supply their ECU's for UK cars cause of the ways the engines have been set to meet emissions controls... But they will supply for JDM cars as well as a kits with cams and manifolds to give even more power! Stew, Giles's car wasnt so much about the BHP its was also about the torque and how it delivered it, not sure about Adams but yes, mucho $£ spent! So yeh agree on these numbers seeming a little high!! He may have used 25% instead of 11.5% increase from wheel to fly!! Or he is just talking b0ll0cks!! Who knows! Its over priced anyway and if hes calling it a real veilside kit then hes probably talking crap about his numbers!

Yeh that or the Clubman. Ment the MSA!!!

Was the question about what car to buy or the wtee? The thing missing on what to buy was the budget! But am guessing its 15k If so, nissan dealer wtee is the AA one (some use the RAC) and no, its not as good as the beemer one! Its ok and covers you but you still have to pay parts of the costs, its almost like an insurance! Saying that though, I havnt really had to use it apart from for a window motor! But that was a deal fook up!

There is talk of a few Imports coming across sooner if not already!

Its an Import... IanS16 found 300+ dont see any reason why he couldnt find 328 on an import in the hands of the right tuner and a forgiving set of rollers!!