Rob_Quads

This guide is based on you purchasing a BOSE Steering Wheel loom (29-674) and Head Unit Specific Adapter (29-001 for Alpine). Below is a picture of a typical loom you get with a head unit Plug A connect to Head Unit Plug B connect to Plug D on ICT loom Plug C Is not used (this is the speaker level output from the stereo which is not required with using a BOSE Amp) Wire J connect to Wire G on ICT loom Plug D connect to Plug C on ISO loom Phono Plugs E connect to the Front and Rear Phono outptut on the head unit Plugs F connect to the Nissan plugs behind the dash (Top one is for steering controls, bottoom two supply power and feed BOSE amp) Wire G needs to be connected to the Wire J on ISO loom Wire H need to be connected to ground (this is the amp ground) Plug I connect the Head unit specific adapter i.e. 29-001 To connect the Steering Remote section connect the loose cables as follows. The colours 'sometimes' vary by if you follow the picture of the plug its always the cables marked A, B and C ICT Unit white Cable -> Red/Green Cable ICT Unit Grey Cable -> Orange/Silver Cable ICT Unit Purple Cable -> Yellow/Green Cable There is also a final step which is required which is to connect up an extra ground lead. The standard BOSE unit is ground through the casing to the chassis. As a result the ISO loom does not have the normal ground. This must be added manually

Have you made a new ground cable? If not try plugging in the aerial as a check - this will make a temporary ground connection. The black ISO connection you don't need - this is the speaker line out which is not used. The loom uses the Pre-outs of the head unit as a source for the BOSE system.

This thread should help explain what the various options are viewtopic.php?f=27&t=16403

Just as a followup - I have heard the focals originally posted in a Z and they are very nice. Only critisism some people have of them is they are slightly harsh but very minutely. I've got the old focal utopias in mine and love them to bits (although prefered my older 3 ways JLs)

I've always used ebay for this. I got my cradle and charger for less than a 10er, not had any problems at all. Also picked up another couple chargers from ebay for a couple quid and they have also worked fine.

Yup - only an old 720p one but still makes for great film and footy viewing. Screen is sunk into the roof.

After the last few months I have been fairly quiet on the forums. Managed to get on every so often to answer the odd ICE question but all my free time has been taken up by a little project of turning a useless lean-to into a proper extension to make our lounge a bit nicer. All the work was done by myself except for the plastering which I was given a hand by the guy i sit next to at work. So what did I start with.... a 25yr structure, most of the window frames were rotten, roof held on by zip ties in places due to the frame being rotten. First strip it back and it becomes the blue lagoon... and so the new work begins almost looks like a proper extension once the windows went in the inside work began outside virtually done inside nearly there inside done Been a lot of weekends and evenings but so glad its done. Hopefully should at least make my money back and will help make the house be more saleable when the time comes. In the spring we will look at sorting the decking.

I found the easiest way was to feel what the old ones were like and then tighten up the new ones a bit tighter. Turn the engine over to make sure there is no squealing - if there is tighten them up another turn or so.

Its a nice theory but it really doesn't hold true. It would hold true if you jump in your car, turn everything on except the engine and let it use up the juice. If you get in, turn the engine on then the battery has done its job. The second the engine is turning over you are not going to be pulling anything from it as the alternator will be providing all the power (thus why the revs slightly increase)

Can you explain your reasons for the above. The load placed on the engine by these are minute in the real world. It will only mean it stays idling aroudn 1500rpm for a bit longer which is 100% safe for the engine to warm up at. When you start driving it will make even less difference.

While I got a garage to do the job because I was short of time - they screwed it up and did not tighten it properly meaning I had to re-adjust it - I found it all fairly easy. I would say its a 1 spanner job The only hard bit if making sure its tight enough once you put it back on. I found it was meant to be tighter than I thought - very easy if you have another car to compare against

yeah the guy is bloody good. That said I recon I could produce something similar with the workshop he has at my disposal and all the free gooddies he had to play with

I would say - back everything up. Try an upgrade. See how it goes, If its not so great then do a clean install. Or if you know what your doing just do the clean install from the get go

W7 is just much slicker than Vista - Can you upgrade - yes. I did it on my office PC but it took ages and IMO did not run as good as it then ran once I did a compete fresh install. RE the free upgrade. The only place that will give you a proper answer is one of the companies who do the offer. The shop staff will not know as they won't deal with any of it, its all done direct to the consumer. I heard that you had to upgrade using the install disks they gave rather than fresh install BUT i bet if you got hold of a another full CD you could use your key to do a clean install too i.e. they keys are not upgrade/clean aware, only OEM aware etc.

Many of the PS2 slimlines can be connected straight up to a 12v supply as the input expects that and has circuitry to protect against over-voltage. I know a number of people running it like this without any problems

You might be supprised at what that stock cable can carry. Its not as bad as you think.

As far as I am aware unless you do some real hackery you will not retain the Nav sound. You'll have to wait for someone who has Nav to answer this one I am afraid

They didn't want him in the end, even for the same money as this year (£3m) once Mercedes took over... Really no-one has confimed that. There is talk that it may have been one of the reasons but there is also the reason that Button too a huge pay cut last year and could not do the same again. £3m is taking the **** when you think Kimi gets £20M for sodding off to another sport

Funny I was saying the same to a couple guys at work. We all thought Top Gear of recent times is no more. Now its the odd car test and them some challence with some of the most obvious staged events its just not funny. Its now turned into background TV to me

Could try getting some wide angle LEDs to try and spread the light a bit more

What components hae you used for the proection etc. Can see one bit which looks like the voltage regulator

Yeah but they measured it from way down the tunnel. Notice how as they got close they eased off. I am sure it would have been way louder if they had blast past the mic (not that the iPhone is anything like that accurate lol

Grrr - So they have gone and used HD....and screwed up the sound so that the voice does not some from the center speaker

The Sony XEL-1 is one of the main examples at the mo. Its one of the major advances in screen technology for the last 5 years. Will be good once they sort proper LED backlights (oppoised to LED edge light) Being able to turn off the backlight for a specific pixel will make such a differences to the blacks

Come down in price - you'll have to wait for them to even come out. It will be 2+ years before you can get a big OLED screen for anything other than silly money. They only have a 20" prototype at the mo