Rob_Quads

Not going to say much other than having known Jord from around 7-8 years ago when we were playing with lesser cars. He is a nice guy who I've never known people have problems with.

This can majorly affect the power you see. Can't remember the exact stats but temps can play soo much part in it - not only the abient temp but the engine bay temp. By keeping the bonnet closed it will have got way way hotter than it does in the real world. Even putting a big fan in front provides no where near the air flow you would get when driving along at 60/70mph. As long as it feels good then I would not be too worried.

yup - would always recommend powdercoating except for on Nissan GT4 alloys (unless you use a very low bake method)

If done properly then painting will be OK and should not flake. The problem is specially with wheels with funny shape spokes etc its a lot of prep work to make sure its all done properly. That said Powdercoating will always give you a tougher finish due to the the thicker better bonded layer (due to baking)

It can be done thats for sure but it just costs $$$ to do as its much more work

We'll agree to disagree as a high end front end only system will fill the cabin and you won't be able to turn it up to max so adding volume is not really possible as its so loud before you can't run it at max. How often do you go to a concert and have speakers at the back pointing forward? You don't because music is designed (when its not done in DD5.1 etc) to come from infront of you. If it starts to come from behind its all wrong IMO

Dont you find that with just using the fronts though it feels like the music is hitting you in the face rather then engulfing you? If the car didnt have any rears then fair enough no need to worry but the rears are there and ready to be used so it just seems a waste to me to have them turned down. Obviously its my personal opinion and you guys may find it perfectly ok with just the fronts but Ive always though that if youve got them then why not use them! A properly setup system that is just using the fronts will fill the car, specially one the size of the 350z which has a tiny amount of cabin space. If you spend the money on getting a better front amp & speakers than you were going to spend on the rears IMO you will get a better sounding system overall. In my old saxo the amount of people who would not believe I had a 1 set of front components and 1 sub was silly - they were top of the range JL 3-ways with proper ampage but went to prove the point. Quality over Quantity If you have a fairly cheap system them it may well be that the rears give you some fill but as you spend more money on better equiptment the rears will loose value

I would go through your documents and see if it lists exactly what is and isn't covered.

What about torque at the wheels? You got any data as to the temp on the days too? So many variants to do a fair comparison you really need to compare the standard to modded map on the same day. Personally at the fly figures are pointless - shown by the fact by tuning you somehow managed to improve the transmission losses by 0.3%

2 amps or 1 amps really comes down to the specs of the various amps. If you can get an amp with the power to do the fronts and rears and have the controls you want then go with a single amp. Some people might want two amps if you are putting a build in as it will be symetical etc. Generally as long as your not going for a major power system you will be fine with a single amp. The most important thing is to make sure that what ever amp you get for the sub you make sure its well matched i.e. if you use a 4ohm 10w1-v2 with the two fo the channels bridged on the e4300 you would actually only be giving it 150W rms which is half of what the sub is capable of. Do you have a budget?

If you have actually cut through the laquer then i am afraid you won't ever get the wheels back to the way you had them as I don't know of a company out there who will polish a wheel and laquer it (as its sooo hard due to it being polished, nothing for the paint to adhere to) its a finish that only the wheel manufacturers seem to be able to do. IF your rims are TRUE slit rims then they can probably be refurbed and have the lip polished back up to be nice and shiny but it will be harder to maintain as you will have lost the laquer protection. If they are fake split rims where its actually welded then its WAY WAY harder to get the lip polished up in the hard to get to areas near spokes i.e. where you have some damage.

I think the key is how long you leave it to dwel - I would only leave it 15/30 seconds at most - how long did you leave it?

I'm just running some tests for a beta release of some Middleware we are looking to release soon. Also managing what to put on the new bladecenter I have - hmm 14x Dual Quad-Core Xeons with 16GB of RAM each. Got ESX3.5/4 running on some to start

lol So true

£300 for a car wrap, not a full one surely ? You've missed a 0 off - he said 3 thousand lol

Some pics of the Nissan stand from setup-day

Pretty sure its the plate that Nissan own - Pretty sure they used it on a black 350z before

I would not trust the mpg meter on the car for the first 5/10 miles. Before that it can be quite eratic and well out. Once you have covered a few miles it starts to settle down and average out. unfortunately the Z just is not capable of giving a semi-real time read-out of your mpg like many other cars can do.

Do find it fascinating how many people would slag off stick on fake carbon bits but are drooling over this fake carbon stuff. To me it still looks too fake. If it was gloss coated them maybe but just doesn't look right Now all of a sudden M3s etc are all going mad for it.

The standard joints on mine only require 14mm i.e. two 14mm, one on either side and the one on the ball joint side is part of the threaded bit so as long as you hold it still the ball joint does not move.

Taken from autoblog.... Some pics at http://www.autoblog.com/photos/2010-nis ... w/2122152/

Take a look in B&Q if you need a blow torch - i got a refil from there and was supprised at how cheap they were - pretty sure cheaper than that ebay link

Well I am in the middle of this. I am going to be taking photos when I do it so that will help in the future. Here is a good start 1) Jack up back of car 2) Look under the rear on either side - you should see the drop links (look at the new ones and find something that looks the same) 3) Undo the nuts on them (2 on each side) - Note the upper nuts are not the easiest to get to - a spanner is easier than a socket/ratchet. 4) Put the new ones on and do the nuts up 5) Lower the car Nice and simple BUT if yours are line mine (04 plate) then each day for 2/3 days before hand give them a good covering of WD40. Last night I spent a while trying to undo them, 2 loosened off after a good soaking in WD40 but the upper 2 are still stuck. Will be giving it another go soon hopefully

To me this would be a killer, the fact the last owner does not even have any service history hints to me that it has not been serviced. While its a lush colour if i were looking this would turn me off to the point of saying no UNLESS they agreed to have a full P3 service and inspection before payment

Welcome - The Z is a great car to look at. One point tho - if you are looking at it from a modders point of view be aware its imilar in that you need to spend LOADS to get any significant gain out of the na engine