Chris`I

Did it on my R6, and it does look good. You need patience and a steady hand to do it though as you need to keep the curve smooth around the wheel. Deffo a wheel off job to do it neatly. Also might not last that long if your car is a daily driver.

One thing I have heard about for the 370z is this new Ester oil that Nissan seem to be weilding. It apparently has nono-technology which means it contains very very small cabon like particles which act like little ball bearnings on contact in the VVEL system, between the cams and followers. Was massive talk about it in the US, but think its died a death now and they all just run normal oil. See if Opie know anything about that

See you have signed up for Wales, you'll really enjoy it, its great fun, biggest meet for Zeds in the country (maybe Europe)!

I did two runs on mine, one where I forgot to turn it off and one where I remembered and it made no difference

See your owners manual, it will tell you in there, then speak to Opie to see what they can do

Good progress chap, red accents really tidy it up I got a point & click, just set the ISO to 64 or something, but low, then get a tri-pod, that should help shooting better pics with a P&C As above, get a Gorilla pod to hold it steady and it should help a lot. As for colours, see if it has an indoor setting or artificial light setting, that will make the colours come out better. If it has manual white balance thats what you're really looking for, but that requires the manul to learn how to set it

As the others have said, pretty much pointless. At WOT it shuts down anyway, and on such a bit lump of a motor, the aircon will consume a much smaller percentage of power than your other cars. Also being newer, it will be more efficient anyway. So I would say leave it on for those hot summer days we have

Shouldnt make too much difference as the rolling radius of the tyres is the same on your normal wheels and space saver. Obviously the handling will be odd as the standard tyre is nearly twice as wide (if a rear one), but its only meant to get you to limp home. If I were only trundling around my local town or whatnot, I would probably remove mine, but when I go to Wales/Scotland, I like to have it just in case, as I've heard stories of people waiting 4-8hrs for the recovery to get there.

Updated it a bit since you quoted it Oh and thats from memory, so sorry if I missed any bits! The main bits are there though, maybe more screws holding bits on once you have the wheel off and in your hands

Theres quite a lot to it, but its dead easy. Right, first of disconnect the battery, pump the brakes. Then its two torx screws either side of the wheel, pop off the little covers - I think the bolts are tamper proof type. This allows the airbag to come out, need to pry up the little bar on the connector for it to release the clip. Once thats off, its a case of big old ratchet to get the wheel off off the spindle (remember to mark where it sits), and you have to loosen a connector wire so its free to come out the back. Once the wheel is off, there are a couple of screws around the back to remove, and a few more when the back cover is off, then they should come off

MLC35 where are you based? Theres so much info for you to learn, I suggest the same as Martin and get a pro to do it if you can. If you want to do it yourself, dont tackle it with a rotary polisher as the Zed paint is thin and soft and can be destroyed if you dont know what you are doing. http://www.detailingworld.com/ is a great place to start whether you want to find a pro, or learn to do it yourself. Far too much for us to tell you to do on here, each step has its own section over there! Normally, I would suggest learning each step properly, first learn to wash and dry, then how to polish and wax, then how to clay and put it all together - wash, clay, polish, wax. But only clay and polish twice a year. Wash every week and apply wax every 2-4 weeks (or maybe less often if you have a good wax). Read up on DW, they explain it better than us and in much more detail. You will learn most of it sitting with a pro for a day though if you can afford, and also the biggest difference to the finish on your car is preperation - not last stage products (wax/sealant), so this would kill 2 birds with 1 stone

Megs NTX metal poish is meant to have anticorrosives in it to stop it rusting, but that on my Nismo and makes it a dodle to clean, give it a try

They should have a job sheet, which should detail any scratches, dents, chips etc before they started work. You should have a copy of this. If you do and they are not on there, the damage happened when it was there and they should pay to have it repaired

Yeh, not all show (really dont know why!) but they will retard the engine in some ways. Weird one cause if you dont have a light how do ou know there is an issue!! The only possible explaination I can ever come up with is it doesnt throw a CEL for intermittent problems which it decides isnt enough to be a problem to look at. Dont know what specific codes do and dont throw a CEL though. You would hope it wouldnt be anything permenant or damaging to the engine though!

I know what you mean bud. Unfortunately for me Admiral were still the cheapest I could use as Amanda wasnt over 25 at the time. I do wonder how many people just let the renewal roll on

When I got mine dyno'd on DynoDynamics, it had a massive fan in front of it and temps were 10C+ higher than when I was on the road doing the same speed, it was definately heat soaked. I am assuming he has an open Apexi cone, if its enclosed then that should not be the case. The graph may show IATs if they had a sensor hooked up or hooked up the ECU. +1 on being confused though

Sounds like it was a 3rd gear run too, so that will have contributed. Surely all CELs show on the dash Mark - as they are Check Engine Light? I know what you mean though, not all errors throw a CEL, only more major ones

Alreet for some, you jammy sod

Thats shocking Is it me, or are you on a hill sloping towards your car? Could the door swing open into yours? I'm thinking its more a careless owner who doesnt give a **** tbh. I would knock on their door and ask if they realise if they have done it. They might fess up, in which case tell them to be more careful and ask them to pay for it to be fixed, they should be reasonable. If not, inform the Police and get things moving that way. You have more than enough evidence its them IMO, but get them on camera if you can, you can get motion sensative cameras quite cheap from places like Maplins these days.

Sounds to me (as per other thread) that its a 3rd gear run, sod all WOT runs before doing a proper final run and the Apexi filter will have been heatsoaked to hell. Didnt realise it was 3rd gear in the other thread, all those factors will what have caused this.

Long day chap? Go play with your foam lance Colin - did you do a requote on Admiral or just get the renewal through? Renewals from them suck, I always do a requote and it comes back down again. Last time I called them to moan, got a very nice South African man (dont worry he wasnt dodgy!) who cut it even futher as a "sorry". Will be giving CK a go this time though.

Very smart, good job

Good good

What were the IATs? What Apexi filter is it? How many WOT runs did they do on the dyno? If they strapped it up and did one run, it would have been heat soaked to hell and not running at full power. I have seen mine climb a good 10HP by doing multiple WOT runs and my pop charger lost me power I reckon as IATs were well above what they are on the road. With an 03 car, plenum spacer, pop charger and Nismo exhaust I got 280HP at the fly (240WHP).

and are still not displaying correctly for me ..........not complaining just commenting They work fine for me at home, work and iPhone. Must be a browser thing your end Yep it is FF ........ Safari Fine for me with FF at work My guess is your FF images are corrupt, a Ctrl-F5 should sort it, if not clear the cache and try again. If that dont do it, then you're FF is cursed