Chris`I

Guess you wont really know until you get the cable. I am basing my views on what is in the US, I think the cable has a custom connector for the ipod, but I may be wrong. I'll see what I can dig out with respect to it, I have the US sat nav manual somewhere. I fully agree about the 2010 upgrade, I held off ordering mine especially for that. Nissan dealers didnt know anything about it either, it was announced in the roadster launch, I only knew of it by reading forums in the US. To be fair to WLMG in Slough, they did chase NMGB up to ask them the questions about it though and I finally got put in touch with the Nissan product manager for sports cars. EDIT: Done a bit more reading on the US forums, and sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I think your dealer is right, iPod can be connected to the system, but no integration, have to control it via the ipod. In the US they got integration before the 2010 update, but it appears outside of the US/Japan it doesnt work (confirmed by a chap in Oz)

Sure Alex has it covered, but if the clutch isnt slipping, then the flywheel might be shot. The dual mass can judder and click/tick when its shot.

Looks good bud I would suggest trying some of these £1,000,000 products you speak of before dissing them though, you might be supprised, adn certainly not the first to be convinced of their worth

Is the nav touch screen? For £1500 you should have the Connect Premium pack which comes on the MY2010 models which means you get upgraded satnav with touchscreen and full postcode support. This should also mean you can just connect your iPod to the USB socket in the armrest and the satnav screen can control everything. But going by the date of your car, I'm guessing its a MY2009 you have, which I beleive has a funny connector in the armrest and they should have supplied the ipod cable with it, and also should have only cost £1400 extra. But it still controls the iPod AFAIK. If you can, post up a pic of inside the armrest and we can tell for sure

to the club

Typical Nissan, dont know what they want

So what kind of stuff does your company do? Do you have a Zed?

Will be interesting to see how much they can get out of it, your engine is already running very stong

Also be careful of the Alezan leather, its prone to wearing if not looked after carefully. Make sure you inspect it for damage before proceeding and dont take the dealers word for it, I made that mistake

From what I've read, there are more bad reviews than good. Many hidden charges can mean what looks like a bargin, ends up being over the odds.

Did it on my R6, and it does look good. You need patience and a steady hand to do it though as you need to keep the curve smooth around the wheel. Deffo a wheel off job to do it neatly. Also might not last that long if your car is a daily driver.

One thing I have heard about for the 370z is this new Ester oil that Nissan seem to be weilding. It apparently has nono-technology which means it contains very very small cabon like particles which act like little ball bearnings on contact in the VVEL system, between the cams and followers. Was massive talk about it in the US, but think its died a death now and they all just run normal oil. See if Opie know anything about that

See you have signed up for Wales, you'll really enjoy it, its great fun, biggest meet for Zeds in the country (maybe Europe)!

I did two runs on mine, one where I forgot to turn it off and one where I remembered and it made no difference

See your owners manual, it will tell you in there, then speak to Opie to see what they can do

Good progress chap, red accents really tidy it up I got a point & click, just set the ISO to 64 or something, but low, then get a tri-pod, that should help shooting better pics with a P&C As above, get a Gorilla pod to hold it steady and it should help a lot. As for colours, see if it has an indoor setting or artificial light setting, that will make the colours come out better. If it has manual white balance thats what you're really looking for, but that requires the manul to learn how to set it

As the others have said, pretty much pointless. At WOT it shuts down anyway, and on such a bit lump of a motor, the aircon will consume a much smaller percentage of power than your other cars. Also being newer, it will be more efficient anyway. So I would say leave it on for those hot summer days we have

Shouldnt make too much difference as the rolling radius of the tyres is the same on your normal wheels and space saver. Obviously the handling will be odd as the standard tyre is nearly twice as wide (if a rear one), but its only meant to get you to limp home. If I were only trundling around my local town or whatnot, I would probably remove mine, but when I go to Wales/Scotland, I like to have it just in case, as I've heard stories of people waiting 4-8hrs for the recovery to get there.

Updated it a bit since you quoted it Oh and thats from memory, so sorry if I missed any bits! The main bits are there though, maybe more screws holding bits on once you have the wheel off and in your hands

Theres quite a lot to it, but its dead easy. Right, first of disconnect the battery, pump the brakes. Then its two torx screws either side of the wheel, pop off the little covers - I think the bolts are tamper proof type. This allows the airbag to come out, need to pry up the little bar on the connector for it to release the clip. Once thats off, its a case of big old ratchet to get the wheel off off the spindle (remember to mark where it sits), and you have to loosen a connector wire so its free to come out the back. Once the wheel is off, there are a couple of screws around the back to remove, and a few more when the back cover is off, then they should come off

MLC35 where are you based? Theres so much info for you to learn, I suggest the same as Martin and get a pro to do it if you can. If you want to do it yourself, dont tackle it with a rotary polisher as the Zed paint is thin and soft and can be destroyed if you dont know what you are doing. http://www.detailingworld.com/ is a great place to start whether you want to find a pro, or learn to do it yourself. Far too much for us to tell you to do on here, each step has its own section over there! Normally, I would suggest learning each step properly, first learn to wash and dry, then how to polish and wax, then how to clay and put it all together - wash, clay, polish, wax. But only clay and polish twice a year. Wash every week and apply wax every 2-4 weeks (or maybe less often if you have a good wax). Read up on DW, they explain it better than us and in much more detail. You will learn most of it sitting with a pro for a day though if you can afford, and also the biggest difference to the finish on your car is preperation - not last stage products (wax/sealant), so this would kill 2 birds with 1 stone

Megs NTX metal poish is meant to have anticorrosives in it to stop it rusting, but that on my Nismo and makes it a dodle to clean, give it a try

They should have a job sheet, which should detail any scratches, dents, chips etc before they started work. You should have a copy of this. If you do and they are not on there, the damage happened when it was there and they should pay to have it repaired

Yeh, not all show (really dont know why!) but they will retard the engine in some ways. Weird one cause if you dont have a light how do ou know there is an issue!! The only possible explaination I can ever come up with is it doesnt throw a CEL for intermittent problems which it decides isnt enough to be a problem to look at. Dont know what specific codes do and dont throw a CEL though. You would hope it wouldnt be anything permenant or damaging to the engine though!

I know what you mean bud. Unfortunately for me Admiral were still the cheapest I could use as Amanda wasnt over 25 at the time. I do wonder how many people just let the renewal roll on