rtbiscuit

Looking good

On the rear strut its best to remove the zed logo before wrapping. Then reapply it once you've wrapped.

in 10 years i've owned 7 cars ok so i'm getting as bad as stuarty 214 si 306 gti6 mr2 roadster CTS 350Z S2000 XKR

thats a shocking list...and a lot of cars

looking very good, reminds me i need to polish mine at some point

Save typing my own answer here is someone elses who can put in words better than i can though tit easier to give examples and this thread just so happens to explain it http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/153-intake-exhaust/39837-raspy-exhaust-myths-facts-theories.html to take extracts from said thread by playing with different parts shows that it is exhaust desing that causes rasp, get the design wrong, you get rasp, get it right, you don;t again another example of what causes noise in the exhaust.

my niece and nephew asked why we didnt have video screens in the back of our seats for them to watch when we drove them home one evening. they said "mummy and daddy have videos on for us to watch when we're in their car" I said, " when i was your age it was a priverlige if my dad let me borrow his walkman to listen to a story book on tape" they said " whats a walkman ....and whats a tape?" sigh

yes its a levelling paint. goes on quiet thick, also needs longer to dry.

Interesting seeing both graphs next to each other like that. looks like sam has more torque through most of the rev range but adrian has a higher top end. can also see adrian your running more boost pressure. being that you aren;t going to track it, would it not be better to set the tune for more torque and lower BHP figures as on a day to day basis make it more powerful in real world terms.being most of the acceleration is between 30 and 70mph? either way the graph looks good adrian, its a nice smooth curve and Mark has done a top job on the tune. either way i'm sure its completely transformed the car compared to stock. i hope you're enjoying it. its a very tidy install with a very shiney engine bay, and some very good numbers

nice

i would guess with the new F type they might phase the XK range out big coupes arent selling as well as 2 seaters, and when the f type does what the XK does, i fear the XK may get shelved. yes it has 4 seats but 2 of them are useless (for seats, good for storage). the XK is getting on a bit now, been in production for nearly 30 years now and so has the engine in it. the F type is the first new engine from jag in a long time. would i want one over a porsche 911.....no i'd want both i like them both, both are good cars, and with reference to 370z's and ferraris. nissan 370Z is to Jaguar F type. what Jaguar F type is to Ferrari california

Its not an impression its what causes the rasp, a well design exhaust can flow lots of gas and not rasp. a badly designed exhaust...rasps....fact

snake oil

As beau said, fine filler and sand, as for the orange peel, you moved too quickly with the can, need slow moves across the panel.

Have seen and heard them in the flesh :drool:

the zed engines do suffer with bore issues. the giveaway on a zed is insane oil consumption.

Sounds dangerous

That's some good numbers, do the pulley or shorter belt and you'll be sorted.

We both know how wrong you are when it comes to exhaust systems from the man that proved arse is not just a word, but now a sound as well

Don't give me none of that ninja sh*t......give me numbers.......now damn it! 2

its just a generic angle grinder connector, so you can fit a variety of ends to them

on this particular job i got my mates at a local bodyshop to do it. i was all set to do the rust removal been waiting since xmas to do it, but as the garage isn;t wide enough to get the car in and work on it at the same time, i had to given in as the bad weather didn;t let up. i was looking at doing it all outside and i went off the idea of trying to do it between snow showers. and as i need to get it ready to MOT i had to get firends to do it in their nice warm workshop. But i can weld, used to use ARC as a kid, now have a MiG at work, but don;t get to use it very often so my welding is a little scrappy at the moment. most of welding is just down to practice and i haven;t and don;t do it enough to keep my hand in to get it to a higher standard. have welded other stuff. but not on the jag this time.

get a good angle grider, then you can fit flexi sanding pads, makes life alot easier on the shaping side. solid discs are best at cutting its a real faff using them to skim a surface. what did you use to spread filler with? depending on the shape and size of what your filling you'll need a range of shapes. and following car contours is something that just takes practice, and a case of checking and sanding back if too high. but a good angle grinder and a set of heads make that easy. if it gets it through its MOT thats the main thing. and should make it an easy seller with no rust. Arc welder would do the job fine, just got to be careful of the heat not warping complex shapes like long sections of wheel arches. hence why a spot welder is a benefit sometimes as its a quick tack. but its looking good.

by the way forgot to say, good effort, and its fun learning, you've got a good project car to practice on. just be aware that body filler is porous, so i would get a sealant paint on there sooner rather than later