rtbiscuit

nice

i would guess with the new F type they might phase the XK range out big coupes arent selling as well as 2 seaters, and when the f type does what the XK does, i fear the XK may get shelved. yes it has 4 seats but 2 of them are useless (for seats, good for storage). the XK is getting on a bit now, been in production for nearly 30 years now and so has the engine in it. the F type is the first new engine from jag in a long time. would i want one over a porsche 911.....no i'd want both i like them both, both are good cars, and with reference to 370z's and ferraris. nissan 370Z is to Jaguar F type. what Jaguar F type is to Ferrari california

Its not an impression its what causes the rasp, a well design exhaust can flow lots of gas and not rasp. a badly designed exhaust...rasps....fact

snake oil

As beau said, fine filler and sand, as for the orange peel, you moved too quickly with the can, need slow moves across the panel.

Have seen and heard them in the flesh :drool:

the zed engines do suffer with bore issues. the giveaway on a zed is insane oil consumption.

Sounds dangerous

That's some good numbers, do the pulley or shorter belt and you'll be sorted.

We both know how wrong you are when it comes to exhaust systems from the man that proved arse is not just a word, but now a sound as well

Don't give me none of that ninja sh*t......give me numbers.......now damn it! 2

its just a generic angle grinder connector, so you can fit a variety of ends to them

on this particular job i got my mates at a local bodyshop to do it. i was all set to do the rust removal been waiting since xmas to do it, but as the garage isn;t wide enough to get the car in and work on it at the same time, i had to given in as the bad weather didn;t let up. i was looking at doing it all outside and i went off the idea of trying to do it between snow showers. and as i need to get it ready to MOT i had to get firends to do it in their nice warm workshop. But i can weld, used to use ARC as a kid, now have a MiG at work, but don;t get to use it very often so my welding is a little scrappy at the moment. most of welding is just down to practice and i haven;t and don;t do it enough to keep my hand in to get it to a higher standard. have welded other stuff. but not on the jag this time.

get a good angle grider, then you can fit flexi sanding pads, makes life alot easier on the shaping side. solid discs are best at cutting its a real faff using them to skim a surface. what did you use to spread filler with? depending on the shape and size of what your filling you'll need a range of shapes. and following car contours is something that just takes practice, and a case of checking and sanding back if too high. but a good angle grinder and a set of heads make that easy. if it gets it through its MOT thats the main thing. and should make it an easy seller with no rust. Arc welder would do the job fine, just got to be careful of the heat not warping complex shapes like long sections of wheel arches. hence why a spot welder is a benefit sometimes as its a quick tack. but its looking good.

by the way forgot to say, good effort, and its fun learning, you've got a good project car to practice on. just be aware that body filler is porous, so i would get a sealant paint on there sooner rather than later

I have this at home, and its well worth a read, i use it all the time, its part and parcel of owning a british car...rust http://www.haynes.co.uk/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=30053&langId=-1 did you remove all the rust on the arch before filling it in, if there is any rust even if you just put some krust on top will still spread up from under all that expoxy. its a good effort, if your going to tackle tasks like that, its worth investing in a mig welder and teaching yourself to weld. and also an angle grinder. your top patch on the arch doesn;t look bad, although it protrudes slightly, but the pop rivets are a little worrying, are they counter sunk below the body? you might get away with it. but you might get sagging ontop of the rivets which will make them visible later. heres my wheel arch, this was doen with a spot welder, ok this is the other side, but it had almost identical treatment, and this is post blending and painting on this occasion this is not my welding, but i have cracked out the kit for other parts on other cars. but that haynes manual on bodywork is very good then ground back ad then finally filled in and blended.

i used a tape converter, and still do in the XKR.

its a knack, even a skill a thankyou very much; i'm here all night.....no seriously i am, i'm half way through GCSE coursework marking and dropping in on here is keeping me sane.

if you want a pair of tits on your car, just get a portrait of SpursMadDave on one side and Octet on the other...Daves a right Tit

on a 65mm hole your more likely to bend the screwdriver, you'll have about a 30mm radius of sold wood around your centre hole. you could chisel it but its unlikely to leave a nice flat bottom. yes you can do it that way, but i've always been a strong believer in the right tool for the job, and on such a large diameter hole a hole saw is not the right tool. depending on depth you want to go, and if you have a router, you could hole saw it then use the router to take the centre out. or just get a 65mm forstner bit.

i have a couple of sets at work but they only go up to 55mm, you said you needed 65mm, which really limits your options. they work best in lathes and pillar drills, but you can use them in corded or cordless drills. £25 not bad as some of them are over £100 a piece.

nice to have a decent sized garage to do them in. lokking good doogy

god i love those sagaris's and the tuscans

its a great tool for measuring progress as you mod a car, but the key is pick 1 dyno and stick to it. regardless of what the original number is it will show you what you gain as you mod. but if you move around and go to different dynos each time the numbers mean nothing. its like measuring a piece of string with a ruler that measures in inches, then later measuring it in cm's and then another one in finger widths. the piece of string is still the same length but i've got about 44 different sets of numbers none of which match what the original says.