fijifixit

Which connection point is shown in this pic? is it the point that connects to the ball joint? or the point that connects to the front subframe? The point that connects to the subframe has a bushing in it, so that arms should have a bushing in that location. The point that connects to the ball joint, you have to make sure you use the "cone" on the ball joint to stop any movement. I replaced my lower control arms on both sides last week ( not moog ones ) and not had any issues with fitment.

Mine is a UK spec which has the one stage airbag. No orange cable, just one yellow one. Its possible that the resistors that came with the shorhub have the incorrect resistance on them. Does anyone know which ones they are? 2.2 ohms?

It flashes twice, then pauses for about 2 seconds, then solid light for about 2 seconds. Then light goes off, and restarts the same blinking again.

Could be, do you know what ohms and watts the resistor is supposed to be? I read on the forum 2.2ohms and 0.25-0.5w? This is my steering wheel when driving straight. I fear this is way too off to be resolved by tracking? @ZMANALEX Can you possibly help?

Hi guys, I bought a Driftworks steering wheel and a shorthub off eBay for the zed. The shorthub came with 2 resistors for the airbags. After installing the aftermarket wheel and putting the airbag resistor on ( I only have one yellow airbag connector on the wheel ) the airbag light is flashing. I thought maybe it’s a faulty resistor so I replaced it with the other one. Same issue. It flashes then pauses then flashes again. I’ve tried the key on and off procedure but this doesn’t seem to fix it. another issue is that the steering wheel is off Center to the right by quite abit. If I try Center it when driving, the car pulls to the left. I’m certain I lined the shorthub up correctly. any ideas?

Have a read through this post. We both has P1283 which was related to the Bank 2 passenger side sensor. Both of our issues was regarding an exhaust leak that was throwing the sensor code. Hope it helps

Do you know what the code was for the EML? I had EML come up which was telling me it was the precat sensor, but turned out to be a very old, cracked and rusty exhaust gasket between the manifold and cats. Replaced them and EML went off. I would suggest checking the exhaust thoroughly for any leaks. Get it on a ramp, switch the car on ( have a cold exhaust so you dont burn yourself ) and feel around all the flanges where the exhaust pieces join. Also look around the cats to make sure they don't have cracks in it etc.

Well, that didn't work out! Got a quote for over 2k from Adrian Flux lmao. Checked on confused.com and got it for £721 with Tesco Bank

Have you actually scanned the fault code to see what it gives you? If so, share what it is please.

What?? Really? They’re always boasting they can beat majority of the competitors! I’m going to give them all call anyway. How about chris knott insurance?

I'm 25.. how do i get these cheap quotes Adrian Flux?

Get under the car and check for any worn bushings. Check the lower control arms as they tend to be a common issue. Drop links are easy to check. Use a pry bar to check the banana arm bushings.

Not as far as I remember. It would go forward but not back. After the wd40 and a smack it started working. Most likely just grime built up over the years inside the switch

I had this issue a couple weeks back with my passenger seat. I sprayed some WD40 into the switch and gave it a few slaps. Started working again

Glad to hear your problem is sorted! I got p1283 again couple months ago.. one of the cat bolts fell off Lool. All sealed up again and it’s gone away. Always cheaper to check gaskets first before forking out on a new OEM sensor Glad my faffing about helped!

How much for the roll bars? are they beefier than stock?

is the flywheel dual mass? or single?

No worries buddy. From my logic, I would think that when you're decelerating and letting the revs drop down, it pulls in some air through the leak thus changing the readings of the sensor. I believe the sensor has to have detected over 80 miles or so that its running lean/rich ( Lean in our case ), before it triggers the EML. I would definitely check them gaskets first In terms of vaccum leaks, have you checked with a smoke machine?

Do you guys reset this before getting onto the motorway? Mine just seems to be stuck on 19.4mpg without the average speed increasing . I just did a run from Dewsbury to Leicester and back.. I got 200 miles from £22 but it still said 19.4mpg?

Hi there, I had an issue where I had this same code relating to Bank 2 Sensor 1 pre cat sensor. I checked vacuum leaked etc and didn’t have anything. I didn’t want to pay £100+ on a genuine sensor to find out that it wasn’t the problem. Turns out, my issue was an exhaust leak between the cat and the exhaust manifold. The stock cats were on and the gasket had perished causing oxygen to enter and affect the sensor. This threw the code p1283 running lean on bank 2 as the sensor was detecting more oxygen in the exhaust than what was metered by the MAF. Saved myself £100+ by replacing the cats with TORQEN Decats ( was already going to do this ) and used new gaskets, holts gun gum and new bolts. I would suggest checking for these leaks first. Never had the code again since I sorted that out

Nope, I've got TORQEN decats, Toyosport Y pipe, Midpipe and Backbox. No fitment issues with mine at all. I think it sounds pretty good.

Is this still alive? Im getting the same issue except it only happens when im reversing uphill. It sounds like a whine when your clutch is slipping, except ive never had any issues on a flat surface nor driving forwards uphill.

Have you checked with a scan tool as to which Bank its relating to? Bank 1 is drivers side, Bank 2 is passenger side. Use a scan tool with data logging to check A/F on both banks and see if ones running Lean. However, fault codes can sometimes be misleading. I had a P1283 Code couple days after I purchased the car. It said Bank 2 Sensor 1 ( Pre cat ) was running lean. After scratching my head and going crazy trying to find vaccum leaks I was ready to replace the sensor. Before I did that, I got a new exhaust on after which the code went away and never came back. Turned out I had an exhaust leak between the manifold and cats which was affecting the sensor. Now In your case, I don't know if P1051 relates to the A/F sensors before the cats or if its the sensors inside of the cats themselves, but a good way to test it would be to swap the sensors around and see if the code changes. That's the step Id take, maybe someones got a better idea?

That is a long wait! I shall come down for sure. I really want to do a track day sometime

Do you still take part? I'm very close to Leeds