Aashenfox

No worries mate, I love all this. Your 9+15 will poke 1mm MORE than 9.5+22, and 3mm MORE than stock with a 25mm spacer Your 10+25 will RECESS by 9mm compared to a 10.5+22, and RECESS by 3mm compared to a stock rear with a 30mm spacer. The stock offset difference (and therefore the official 'stagger') of the stock wheels is 3mm wider track (per side) at the rear (so 6mm wider track total). Without spacers, your 9+15 and 10+25 will be exactly that, 3mm wider track per side at the rear. Therefore, you don't NEED a spacer at all to maintain the stagger that Nissan intended. However, since the difference in the width of the actual fenders front to rear is about 11mm, if you maintain Nissan stagger, the rears will look less aggressive than the fronts. Therefore, if you want to match the fit exactly of the classic 9.5+22/10.5+22 setup, you should run a 10mm spacer on the rear with no spacer on the front. You will then be exactly 1mm wider both front and rear compared to 9.5+22/10.5+22 which is a 'balanced' look, neither wheel appears to poke more than the other. Hope it helps!!

I think 20 on the front will poke notably more than the rear with a 20, which is fine, but not the best visually. It would be better to err on the side of the rear being wider by about 10mm. Here're some figures and math for you to help you decide. The first thing to get your head around is the effective offsets of the stockers. So, without further ado... Stock, no spacers: 8.0+30 front and 8.5+33 rear. So, with 20/25 it's like a +10 on the front, and a +8 on the rear. If you fit 25/30 spacers, naturally, 5mm less offset again, so +5 and +3 F and R respectively. The best fitment for our cars to get the best balance of aggression and look is 9.5+22 and 10.5+22 but that also requires a touch of lowering not to look too monster truck-ish. So, 9.5+22 and 10.5+22 has 2mm more poke at the front and 6mm more poke at the rear, compared to stock wheels 25/30 spacers. So at your sizes, 8.5+30 (let's assume?), with a 20mm spacer, you are at an effective 8.5+10, which is almost identical in fitment to 9.5+22 (it actually pokes just 1 more mm), BUT the back with a 20mm spacer (effective +20) will be a BIG amount more under the fender, 11mm LESS poke than a 10.5 22, so in actual fact, if you want the equivalent 10.5+22 fitment, you'll need a 30mm spacer for your rear Volks. Having said all that, I say again, that without a bit of lowering, 20mm front and 30mm rear will be really quite aggressive. If I was you I'd probably buy 20mm and 25mm (given that you may have a little more front offset than 30, if you're measurements are right, and it's more like +33). Then later on when you get lowered a little, you can sell the 25s and get 30s, or sell the 20s, move the 25s to the front and get 30 or 35 for the rear depending how it looks to your eye.

By the time you wear em out you should be able to get MPS4S in the right size

MPSS is the only class A tyre I can find in the sizes you need, have you already asked around and can't get them? They'd be my first choice anyway.

Here ya go mate. http://www.upgrademo...wheels/te37.htm It's possible this table is not complete, but in general this site is a good source of wheel info. Your front seems a bit off, maybe someone shaved it? Anyway, if it is 30, or even 33, you'll want 15 to 20mm for the front, depending how much poke you want. Since those fronts are convex, I'm gonna assume you won't be poking, so 15mm spacer for the front. For the back, you'll want 20 to 25mm, probably 20mm. In both cases, 15mm front and 20mm rear, you'll be at about the same stance as someone like myself with stockers and 20/25 spacers, it's pretty flush, are you low?

See if you can get MPSS, then ask Dan (Ekona) for a recommendation based on what you can get.

Thanks for that mate, 'preciate it. Very nice stance. Don't suppose you're interested in changing up your rims are you? Completely seriously, if you're interested in selling them, let me know. I was planning on ordering either these or CR Ultimate, just can't decide. Also, is that a satin white wrap? I called my wrapper and he told me 'Don't do it!!', I was really disappointed, is it really that much of a nightmare to maintain? Cheers!!

If you can still get MPSS with a good date on them, they are still one of the best street tyres available, be aware they have been discontinued. No need to look for anything else if you can lay your hands on them, otherwise MPS4S, the new replacement. Since it's obvious cost is not an issue (baller rims and tyres, nice!), I won't bother mentioning any other options.

Fair point, mileage is a consideration too.

I genuinely still have the scar from the last time I ironed something. It was about a year ago before our engagement photo shoot... not a pleasant experience, and the iron burn was fairly nasty too. Your wife mentioned that you are supposed to remove your clothes prior to ironing them, right?

I wouldn't do most of those, morbidly afraid of heights I'm sorry to say. I'm even more scared of ironing though, so ironing AT HEIGHT is right out.

How about... Meh, never mind, it was rubbish.

Always welcome mate.

Joe, Rook's situation was different, he needed to replace his struts. As far as I know, you don't? In response to Rooks assertion that he doesn't see why he needed to spend more, I'd say he didn't, for his situation and needs, but you need to spend even less. A set of lowering springs for 150 quid will give you exactly what Rook has achieved for less than half the price. In regards to Street Basis being OEM+...Hm....highly debatable. I'd wager that Tein springs on Nissan struts, is probably a better street setup than Tein springs on cheap Tein shocks under most circumstances, and Nissan struts will certainly last longer. The problem with 400 quid shocks is that there's only a very small place in the market for them, people like Rook basically, who need to change their struts but don't want to get nissan and don't already have lowering springs. For those who just want a bit of low, there are cheaper springs, and for those who want a performance shock, 400 quid ones aren't sufficiently better than stock to be worth buying. That's why the responses so far, we're not brand snobs, we love Tein, and we're not trying to make an HSD/BC Coilover master race either, we are 350Z owners who have coilovers and have already been through the process you're going through now, where we assessed our needs, asked the forum and bought accordingly.

Swifty, I assume you're as low as the MonoPros will go? If you are, have you got a pic? I'm on monopros, but only 10mm lower than stock, was curious to see how far they can go, I know it's not far, and that's fine for me, lowering the car in greece is not really feasible, I was just curious.

Tarmacsportz has them.

Smoked looks much tidier, imo. Any white or silver reflectors on a car just remind me of the lexus light era in the 90s and early noughties.

Here ya go...coilovers off a working car for 50 quid. Sounds like they'll need some refurb, but that's a cheap set of BC coilovers. http://www.350z-uk.c...extended-studs/ edit: oh wait they're only a pair.

Here are the links to the products you can buy today without paying customs. RT on Ebay... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252944974640 And Original part on BMM... http://bmmperformanc...ed-rear-bumper/

I'd add at least a 50% tint (and I will when I inevitably buy these too, they look nice) for two reasons, black-ish will look better on your silver when they are not lit, and you won't blind people so much at night. I'm photosensitive and I can't tell you how painful it is to have been driving down a dark road, then find yourself at a traffic light behind someone with powerful LEDs. As for the fog lights... "They're not fog lights, officer, they daytime running lights, you know, to increase my visibility, for safety"

You won't get any coilovers worth putting on your car for less than 700 quid. If all you want is a bit more low don't waste 400 quid on crap coilovers (and they would be - crap), just get some more aggressive lowering springs. Also, as stated above, when changing wheels, care is taken to ensure the overall diameter remains as close as possible to stock to keep the traction control system and other instruments on the car that are based on wheel speed, happy. This means buying tyres to a specific diameter. If you post up what you're planning to buy we can give you some pointers.

RT has some on ebay right now. BMM has genuine ones for not much more (about 600 quid if memory serves, but they take a few weeks drop shipped from disti in Holland).

I can only speak from experience of my HSD MonoPro coilovers, and as someone who has cornered at the limit at 160kmh with a grin on my face, rather than a stripe in my pants, I highly recommend them. The performance of my Zed around corners that I have been round with various performance cars, is exceptional and up ith the best, and some of those were on better rubber too. I'm thrilled with the shocks and the way my tuner set them up for me. I am only 1cm lower than stock though, by necessity.

P.S. And you've gotta understand the position these kids are in (at the time when they get on these lists), born to Syrian or Iraqi parents or whatever, they've got to be wondering about their heritage, why wouldn't they be reading innocently about their roots and what their people at home are fighting about, just as many who would find it insane, might also be affected by propaganda offering them an easy path to eternal glory, rather than a trip down the job center because nobody hires arabs. The status quo makes it simply inevitable. All you can do is try to learn the lessons, which I'm sure the British police will.

I honestly believe that no matter how many resources they throw at it, they are still left with the rock and the hard place, the rock being not arresting POTENTIALLY dangerous people, and the hard place being to arrest people willy nilly and seriously fk up some good people's lives. Here're two shovels, take your pick.