veeg33

Been advised that this is not necessary hence I didn't change it. Just the clutch, flywheel and pivot bolt.

Changed clutch and flywheel back in January this year, no issues up to today. Been advised that the clutch master cylinder does not need replacing on DE hence only change what's recommended when I did the clu ch. Clutch is only returning half way up =( I need to manually return it using my foot, it just popped back up with some force. Saw a video on YouTube for a quick fix (remove pin, re-adjust the bolt, Bob's your uncle and it's s sorted) however I'm struggling to get under to access this. Any tips to try the adjustment bolt first before I take it to specialist.

Tango wheels......YES!!!!

Happy to help. I'm glad you have fixed the issue. It is always a nice feeling if you can fix it yourself without spending a penny !! Good result!!

https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/597259-350z-window-motor-does-not-have-reset-button.html

I can't edit pics on my pc now, but in the middle of the picture, there are 2 leather like sticker. Remove one of them, you'll see the reset button. I can't remember which one but it will be either one. Here's a link for ebay parts --> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Window-Regulator-Motor-Front-Left-For-Nissan-350Z-Z33-Skyline-V35-2002-2009/183510741412?fits=Model%3A350+Z&hash=item2aba17b1a4:g:yPsAAOSw7D9cnxd9 You can see the black button on the metal (silver disc). However, when i get a new motor, I've been told to get the one with a reset button. My concern here is, you zed might have one without the button? But check behind the 2 stickers, also note that once you remove the sticker, you'll need to reapply some double sided tape or glue to stick it back. I can't be bothered hence left them out after removal.

The video is a US left hand drive zed, but procedure should be the same. I would give the reset a go and see if that solve your issue. From what you described, it sound like your window is out of calibration which hopefully a reset will solve it. IMO, I don't think the switch is the issue as you can still use the switch to open and close the window but I could be wrong. Another thing to consider is your window motor but i think it is unlikely as you can still open/close your window, i can only close when i press the switch along with some muscle power (pulling the window up by hand). Mine dropped automatically (about half) when window is fully shut.

Don't have to post up again, mods can move it to correct section. Firstly, check the door nipple. Faulty ones might cause the issue you are describing. While door is open and window fully up, press and release. Pressing it will move your window up by an inch or so, releasing should move your window down by an inch or so. If everything works normal, you'll need to reset. If not, you'll probably need to adjust the nipple (i had similar issue previously where the rubber around the nipple needs a little adjustment as it is not pressing correctly. Or you will need a new nipple (switch). Not sure if this is same as UK cars, you can try to reset the window. However this involves removing the door car --> https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/361241-how-to-repair-stuck-broken-window-motor.html Then press a little button to reset -->

Great advert and that's way too cheap mate!! If i have spare £7,500 now, I'll buy it!! GLWTS

Hello and welcome That's really low mileage for 2005. Good find!!

Thanks guys! Much appreciated @LRF4N @CAL-85 @marzman

Ladies and gents, Looking to get a contract hire/lease, any recommendation please a part from Ling's cars? Don't think I'll keep the car at the end of the lease hence not going to PCP. Just pay monthly for 48 months and return as my company has a policy - no older than 4 years old. Few in mind at the moment (£380 to £400 budget) with around 17,500 miles per year, and good boot size and overall vehicle not too big in size 1.) Merc C-Class C220d AMG Line 2.) Audi A4 Avant S-Line Avant 3.) Jaguar E-pace D180 AWD - Seems to be on the top of my budget hence might drop down to just 2WD thanks =)

I'm familiar with the 350z fob and can confirm they can be recoded. If the 370z uses the same/similar parts, it can be recoded. In the 350z key fob, there is a black rectangular block about 1.2cm long x 0.3cm width x 0.3cm height which can be recoded as long as it is still functional. I went to Malaysia for holiday and took my keys there to clone for a 2nd spare key. My dad knew an auto locksmiths hence I went there. He showed me the whole process --> place original key onto a machine to copy the code --> go a piece of black block out from his stock --> paste the code into new block --> check both key and new block to ensure both is transmitting the same code --> insert new block into spare key --> cut new key --> Done. Dealership in Malaysia chargers similar to the UK Stealership here, I had mine coded and cut for £25 at mate's rate (I supplied my own fob that i purchased from a breaker here in UK as he don't stock UK fobs). Charges around £50-£70 normally including aftermarket fob. He said the high price is to pay off the price of the decoder machine which cost a fortune to buy. My assumption is Nissan dealership will send you key off somewhere to be cloned.

I hope not.........I'll need to sell my kidney and liver to fund it.

Signed - One solid reason to leave the EU

Small mod yesterday, swapped the brilliant OEM air box for a JWT popcharger.... Loving the 'pop'....... Purchased from a fellow forum member, being re-oiled with K&N hence it has turned red rather than blue. 99% sure it's placebo but my zed accelerated a tiny bit better.

There's no black hole as the world is flat

Start a new 'How to' page here --> https://www.350z-uk.com/forum/35-guides/

IMO, it all depends on how you use them. Regular day to day commuting, these will be more than adequate. I recently swapped all 4 corners with Ebay specials discs + brembo pads from ECP (50% discount code back in Dec 2018). All in was less than £260. Been driving around 2000miles since, no issues at all and braking power improved slightly but probably thanks to new pads and disc. I went for dimpled rather than drilled as drilled tends to crack but again, IMO if you don't heat cycle the disc often, it should be OK. Ebay specials - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOR-NISSAN-350Z-INFINITI-G35-FRONT-REAR-DIMPLED-GROOVED-BRAKE-DISCS-BREMBO-PADS/262954137855?epid=575719122&hash=item3d3949b8ff:g:e~UAAOSw42dZGwW4 Assuming it will be similar for 370z

Hello, I'm assuming all bits needed for the popcharger to fit my standard DE engine is all present? All i need is just to swap parts and fit them? If yes, i'll take them. You have a PM

Can't hear much apart from nice exhaust sound...........sorry

Ok - Here's how I summarise this.....few tanks of Momentum99 then a tank of V-power to clean them up.....repeat the cycle