veeg33

well, maybe you are correct........

It's pretty easy once I've tracked the cables going into the original programmer. Got a quote this morning from a 'Pro Installer' near me, £99.00 including VAT.......That's extra £99 in the pot for mods on my zed

After an hour tracking the existing wiring, I've managed to install this and now fully working

Ready for MOT and service on Tuesday Engine oil + filter Air filter Differential oil Gearbox oil + molly slip Front and rear disc (dimpled and grooved) + Brembo pads

Top ones should be the ones you need for non Brembo calipers, rectangular shaped, whilst the square ish ones are Brembo calipers.

Both pumps are different, mainly just the connector. Make sure you buy one each.

I'm 90% sure EuroCarParts have them as I as given the wrong set last week and had to go bk to change it. The one you need should be 10170247A (if I remember correctly, the wrong ones looked similar to your pic). I went back and replaced it with 10180011A (for Brembo) . U can order online with code BLACKFRIDAY, its £22.25 for them Brembo pads.

I believe DIY really life test more than measured lab test in the case hence your test is much more likely to give guidance to me on which one to buy. I feel BH is indirect saying your test is complete BS and should not be taken into consideration when choosing the right product. As Stu said, lab will give a MPG figure that you'll never achieve in real life.

Any heating engineer here in the forum that happy to give some advice? Purchased a Nest 3rd gen learning thermostat. I'm good with most DIY at home but this is a bit tricky as I'm not too sure where things are. My hot water tank has a junction box, Danfoss Wb12, I have a Danfoss programmer Tp9000ma-si and Worcester Greenstar Ri boiler. Junction box is next to the water tank upstairs, programmer is downstairs next to the stairs and boiler is in the garage. I've seen many examples of people replacing the programmer with the Heat Link and have the Nest thermostat plugged into a USB power somewhere else. But i wanted to replace the programmer with the Nest thermostat and have the heat link hidden somewhere (assuming I can wire it next to the junction box in the airing cupboard?) I have removed to cover on the programmer and took pic of the wiring (1st pic below) . Then i went upstairs to remove the junction box cover and took another picture and try if I can match the cables. (pic 2). It has 12 points, however the white cable that goes into the junction box doesn't seems to match the cables that goes into the programmer hence I'm stuck. Is my thought process correct?

10/10 on effort...........but This looks like a work you would expect from Leepu from Chop Shop: London Garage https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bangla_Bangers

Orders brake pad shims and fluids (gearbox, molly slip and diff) for my next service. Easy and smooth transaction over the phone with Ewen! Thanks

Hello and welcome

Slightly louder than OEM but deep solid tone (bass been tuned up to max). Hopefully once it's bedded in, it should be louder, I might go for HFC in future if I wanted it to be louder. No drone at all inside the car, pretty similar to OEM and hardly noticeable I've changed exhaust. But the best bit is when I change gear and revving up over 3k (when stationary) a tiny bit of burble and very mild pop&bang. Overall I'm happy with it.

Finally a wash Absolutely loved the TS side diffuser! I'm still not too sure but thinking of the Nismo spats to finish of the zed nicely at the rear......

Credit goes to Bob at Tarmac Sportz, I'm just waiting in the waiting area and came out to this

I would say get them from Tarmac Sportz, I just had mine fitted yesterday by them. The w brace comes with 'floating' hole hence can be adjusted to fit. They are selling for £163 including free shipping - https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/suspension/braces-anti-roll-bars/ultra-racing-nissan-350z-rear-lower-brace-standard-w-brace-replacement.html (out of stock now as I had the last one yesterday )

Sorry mod, another one to delete. When i press 'Post' comment, the screen stayed the same but it has actually been posted

Massive thanks to Chris @Tarmac@TarmacSportz and Bob @busterfor giving me ZEDITUS this morning B). On a serious note, thanks for sorting me out and thanks Bob for getting the Invidia Gemini exhaust, TS side steps and Ultra Racing W-brace fitted to my zed. Also not forgetting the free Tarmac Sportz t-shirt

I was hoping they do (they did offer that I can use their jet wash) , my car was filthy when I reached them, hence no pics yet

Sneak peek.... Many thanks to @Tarmac@TarmacSportz and @buster for sorting this out for me.

Today is the day! Landed at Tarmac Sportz..... Came for exhaust fitted, ended up with severe ZEDITUS! Spending extra to get side steps and ultra racing with brace fitted too....

Price difference wasn't much between them, hence went for the ClarkMotorSport(CMS) shims as I'm getting bits and bobs from Ewen. Thanks for the info.

Will be getting my disc and pads replaced soon hence I'm buying parts ahead of it, I'll be getting the garage to do it on the same day before MOT. I'm not sure if my current pads have shims on them (1st pads change next month in 4 years of ownership), my research says that I could 99% reuse them if I have them but if not, i would like them to fit shims on it just to be on the safe side to avoid any squeaking noise. The question: Rubber shims (Mintex MBA30) or metal shims (will be giving Ewen@clarksmotorsport a ring)? What's the difference and which one is better or both works the same?

Sorry, don't quite get your question. My switch is on the 'door' position. Every time I unlock with fob, the lights will come on and also when I switch off the engine, it will also come on even with doors still shut. Everything is working as 'normal' I suppose, if not that's exactly how I want it to be

yep, my lights came on when I unlock with the fob. Hope you'll find the root cause....