davey_83

Hi everyone Quick question, are the sensors interchangeable? ie if I had a defective back 1 sensor, could a known working bank 2 sensor work fine in replacement for my duff sensor? I seem to remember the sensors looking slightly different, however is this just due to plug access?

Crazy that road sports cars have these on the front axle!!! Madness

Following on from the winter prep thread, today I tackled the front wheel arches. Chassis wise there's a lack of underseal from factory and I'd be looking to address the matter. Used a combination of Bilberry and AG wheel cleaners, Daisy APC, various scrubbing brushes, mf towels, Hammerite stone chip, brake cleaner and ACF50. Also did the wheels while they were off and like a pro didn't take the all important after picture, huff. Weekend gone also treated her to a new coat of Soft99 Kiwami ready for the harsher months. Next up the rear arches and subframe.

Any word from Michelin? This is one of my rears with dot code and no signs of cracking, not much help but.....

Massive thank you to Steve Wick for these reflector decals, cut and fit are perfect Steve goes all colours available as we all know. A1 communication as always, decals were packed with care and sent out promptly - happy now as my DIY efforts needed chucking in the bin.

DE reflector decals ftw, thanx Steve

I'm not a great fan of new look leather, see these time and time again in mates company cars and personal I think they look dry, dead and unprotected. Clearly this is not the case but different people like different things. Like interior trim or tyre dressing, most like a satin look where as I prefer mine to actually look dressed. I know they're not dirty as they've just been scrubbed down and the finish look isn't to everyone's taste, but luckily they only need to appeal to one. Regardless of the product used, I prefer the leather to have some contrast, depth and softness to its appearance. Wheel arches and liners next......

Yes pal you too, take it easy

Wonderful

Could have a sticking brake caliper causing the low whp figure. With the car on a very slight incline, foot and hand brake off will the car roll freely? Abbey uses a hub dyno? so a set figure would be 'added' to estimate the flywheel power not taken away. bhp is always worked out from whp, not the other way round from my understanding.

FWD, AWD or RWD?

I wont pretend to know more than this chap *Jesstzn 40yrs+ experience from the below forum discussion, however he doesn't have an issue with the aforementioned product either - seems fairly knowledge to a fellow hobbyist detailer. In short it does a good job of protecting the top coat of the leather to the desired finish. https://acurazine.com/forums/wash-wax-23/armor-all-leather-gel-care-789919/ Highlights: I have .. for over 4 years regularly on numerous cars some being my TL.. a Ferarri 335Spider ... a Jag sedan ... and an aray of other cars. I pre clean them with a Woollite solution and use the gell and not one has had issues .. The reason I wanted you to elaborate on your reasons is because most of the Armoral fearmongering ( Ugh, I stay far far away from Armor All products. ) is based on wives tales that originated years ago about one of the first products they put out and even then it wasn't substantiated. Leather is a natural product, with a pH of 4.0 and comes from animal (bovine0 hides, which have been chemically processed (tanned) to preserve them. A properly tanned hide (or skin) creates strong, flexible material; resistant to decay. Most leather is tanned cow hide, which are laterally split, rendering an upper (Aniline) and lower cut (By-cast). The majority (95% + ) of automotive upholstery is by-cast polyurethane covered leather, these leathers have aspects of a natural finish, but more uniform in appearance, by-cast will also stretch more than top grain leather and is therefore subject to show creasing. The upper portion is the top-grain, or Aniline, the lower portion is the split or by-cast. This cutting process creates different faces to the leather. The outside face of the top grain shows the natural grain characteristics, but is otherwise smooth, whereas, the underside appears as unfinished or suede Myth buster - many leather products market themselves on how they feed leather. In fact your car's leather seats are first coated with a very fine emulsion to give them the desired colour and then a clear coat. So for best longevity you should be keeping that coating as well protected as possible. These same companies would also have you believe you should feed your vehicles polyurethane upholstery or the car's urethane paint finish with protein, collagen, or exotic oils... eg. Leatherique treatment

Glossy as hell!!!

Oddly always gets good reviews from both sides of the pond. Products used are always a personal preference, I've thus far had no issues and find it leaves a lovely smell and finish to the leather - therefore I find it does serve a purpose

Nice and clean, most black cars in direct sunlight look a state sadly. I wouldn't cope with a black car haha. If it's your thing, you can dress the rubber hoses in the engine bay too.

Like most car enthusiasts on the run up to winter, we like to take what we feel are necessary precautions to protect the vehicle. Minimum my routine consists of pre wash, wheel cleaner, wash, de tar, clay, dress all exterior rubbers, alloys and windscreen sealant, paint glaze and sealant. Clean and protect interior trims, glass and seats. Products used: ValetPro 10.1 citrus pre was & bilberry, AutoBrite Cherry shampoo & cherry glaze, AG intensive tar remover & glass polish, G3 clay mitt, CG new look trim gel, AG extra gross protection, Soft99 Glaco & Kyalami. I also plan to for the first time on the Zed clean/dress all the arch liners, underseal exposed steel body and ACF50 all the suspension, brake lines, drop like and arms. Some of the products il be using and progress this far *sorry much beading.

They're a great car, don't suit every need but still wonderful

Beautiful, one to buy and store away for another 15yrs http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2017/09/the-first-production-nissan-350z-is-for-sale.html

Poor battery earth to the bulk head maybe.

UV causes all sorts of issues to rubber, keeping up on tyre dressing (if not already doing so) is highly recommended improving both looks and the longevity.

Big S, little s makes all the difference - nice review. Defiantly my replacements for the fronts *MPS3 when they wear out.

ello n welkom Yep, early spec 276bhp DE - 28k!!! must drive like new

Going of the post above, the y pipe back I'd say.

hhhmmmm Tomei - that looks beautiful, loving this build - great skid cars

The Mrs did remind me of Matthew 6:34, so I have to take heed.