gareth29

Having just removed the lower sump on mine, I can say there was a fair bit of oil (1/4 liter?) left in the pan so I thought next time I would see if I could just lift the passenger side to make sure I got it all out

Really enjoying this welcome thread, still!! Just spending too much time on this and maxrevs guy's

My dad had a 1.8TC saloon (company car) - he said it was the biggest load of rubbish he'd ever driven. I t sounded quite nice but the yhing I remember most is that the "wooden" dash trim soon started to peel off - it was just sticky back paper!! On the subject of c**p BL cars he also had sporty austin 1300GT just like this which he let me drive on private roads at the tender age of 10 or so - sad to say that I quite liked the look of this one at the time!

Many a little chuckle tonight reading this and newbies fay's intro post - much better than the telly

New bolts in - looks much better (and it seems to have stopped the leak, without putting any new sealant into the gap) Had to take the timing chain off for access to do the the sealant, but it was impossible to get any sealant in as the gap could only be opened very slightly. So then I had to time the engine up, something which I had not been looking forward to, but the worst bit was putting the tensioner back, hence the top tip with the cable tie, holding the tension on while I got the tensioner in place. Also put a cable tie around the crank pulley as the chain kept falling off. All went smoothly until I dislodged the key (which locates the pulley) from the crank! Aaargh!

Finally got around to removing the front timing chain casing. Was just having a look around when I noticed that 7 bolts were missing from around the cam sprocket area. These bolt the rear timing chain casing to the cylinder head and the front camshaft bracket - exactly where the leak is coming from! I'm really kicking myself that I didnt notice this when I had the cover stripped off last year. I cant believe some joker just forgot to put these bolts back. I've now got to try and seal between the rear cover and the head - was thinking of trying to open up the gap a bit by undoing more bolts, after removing the cam sprockets and trying to inject some sealant into the gap. Does anyone have any better suggestions ( I dont want to remove the rear casing if at all possible) Cheers my little arrows havent come out on the second photo but you can see the 4 holes with no bolts

Glad I was wrong! But then I'm used to it

Possibly a head gasket - coolant being forced out under pressure from a cylinder?

Nice restaurant too, though a bit pricey the last time we looked.

That made me laugh. What exactly can you get for less than £200? Maybe you could hire them for £100?

one for the sailors amongst us

mine does this - i'd be interested to know if a fluid change helps - i hadnt thought of that!

I liked the left over bits at the end

Re the tappets, they are solid not hydraulic

We obviously have different ideas of sheds!! Thats more like nice semi in a good area!

You have to load numbers into the cars system - 50 max i think.

They look good - was the overheating due to excessive enthusiasm or what? Hoping to get to an evening at cadwell on 22/4 myself.

Wasnt this a private sale?

I knew we forgot something Not many gaskets in yet, a lot go on the outside where all the pipes etc join the block. We have put in 2 new head gaskets and one of the Cam cover gaskets was not correctly fitted the first time and got damaged so that has been replaced. Sump is RTV as is the Cam chain cover I may use to much I prefer to have a bit extra let it squeeze out and then when dry run a scraper blade along the seam to clean it up. Had no leaks on the last engine I did though Only 2 things to be careful of is too much on the inside of the engine, it can block oil ways or peal of and gets into the oil pickup pipe and clean the bolt holes before you try and tighten them in. If you get a load in the hole it can snap the bolt before tight or even brake the back of the casting! Yeah i was worried about putting too much on - funny thing is it only seems to leak, and just a little drip, when the motor is killed. It emerges between the back of the timing case and the vvt block on the LH bank. Good tip about old sealant in the holes!

There is another solution - just leave it dirty, mine's been washed once in 12 months and currently looks beautifully grimy after a blast across filthy wet moorland roads in north yorkshire the other day. I like the inside clean though! A little article on P'heads that I just stumbled across: http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=27561

Sounds like a good diagnosis (warped disks) - they shouldnt charge to confirm it, should be just a quick drive around the block for one of their techies. Nice looking motor

Good stuff - from the look of this, it looks like I was a little too mean with the rtv (following the manual) when I put mine back together after swapping the exhaust cam - probly why I have a leak now!!!

Are you referring to the bolt that holds the pulley or the pulley itself, To remove the bolt - car in gear handbrake on and loosen, if, as in this case the engine is not in the car an air gun or 2 bolts in the flywheel end of the crank with a big bar to stop it turning as you undo it. The pulley was easy this time just pulled of by hand but I have had to use a puller on them - they are not usually madly tight just a little rusty and stiff to come off. Yes, sorry the bolt. Its mainly the problem of torquing it up, then +90 deg - last time I removed the starter and jammed a bar into the ring gear. This worked fine but was a bit of a faff - just wondered if there was an easier way (without an air tool)?

Great read, Keyser - i assume that the cylinders are steel (wet) liners? Such a nice looking motor when its stripped down. Quick question - to get the crank pulley off/on do you use an air tool or what? Hope you've sorted the problem?

Its bloody quick, even without the optional 5.1 engine - damn those clever germans - not a patch on the z lookswise though