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gareth29

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Everything posted by gareth29

  1. Moderators, please lock this ad. Its now listed on ebay.
  2. And thanks for pointing it out - Ive never sold a car on ebay before, but Im going to have a go now!
  3. Here it is - obviously I didnt see the car specific section. This must be for other stuff. https://www.ebay.co.uk/help/selling/fees-credits-invoices/fees-private-sellers?id=4364#section2
  4. I made it to be 10% of final value up to a max of 250.
  5. Price reduced to £2250. I was just about to put the Zed on ebay and then noticed that if it went for £2500, I'd have to pay 250 in selling fees. With that in mind I thought I'd reduce the price to £2250 and cut ebay out!
  6. The car will be in the north east for the next couple of days - near Durham.
  7. Sorry just noticed your post - didnt get a notification. I'm close to Skipton, North Yorkshire, BD20 9DL.
  8. Price reduced to £2500! And update - I replaced the coolant temp sensor a couple of months ago and have been monitoring the idle speed "hanging". I must have done close to 1000 miles since replacing the sensor and resetting everything and it seems to have all but eradicated the problem. With AC off, the idle always returns immediately to 750/800 rpm. With AC on, it will initially drop to 1100 rpm and then in a few seconds, gradually come down to 900 rpm. Very occasionally it will "hang" around 1400ish rpm and will take its own sweet time to return to normal. If you turn off the engine and then restart, the idle remains at 1400ish rpm, you get on with your journey and the high idle goes away in its own time.
  9. Always run on Tesco momentum or Shell Vmax (receipts back to 2013).
  10. Late 2005 350Z GT, 87,000 miles. Gunmetal, Alezan seats and 18in Rays alloys. The car is a bit of a project for someone who can get the bodywork issues sorted and is a Cat D write off as it had suffered damage to both front wings (see photos). I replaced them in 2014 with some pattern parts, undersealed the rear of them and painted them with rattle cans with poor results. Some superficial rust has set in around each front arch as well as one or two scabs of rust. Reason for sale - I need something more practical now as I’m only going to run one car. The Z has been great to own and drive as well as superbly reliable in the 6 years I’ve owned it - a faulty battery causing the only failure to start. It’s completely stock, bar a braided line to a renewed clutch slave cylinder. The wheels are in reasonable condition having been refurbished 2 years ago. The rear arches seem to be corrosion-free. After buying the car, I cleaned the inside of the rear arches thoroughly and undersealed them. The engine and transmission are virtually bone dry, just a small amount of oil seepage at the front behind a pulley. I replaced the banana arm bushes immediately after purchase. The ancillary belts were all replaced when I got the car but could do with changing again. Brake pads and front discs are about 20,000 miles old, rear discs are older. The front pads are ready to be changed. I’ve done all the servicing myself, changing the engine oil and filter every 10k miles or yearly. I’ve not replaced the gearbox or differential fluid. It does have some dealer service history (see photos). Bluetooth adapter installed and supports Windows phones and iPhone but not Samsung. The interior is in very good condition. Genuine Z floor mats. There are a few small corrosion bubbles on the bonnet lip. The front bumper has had one or two small bumps in the past and needs a repair and paint. There is a bit of overspray on the rear window seal. It currently has winter tyres fitted all round, Continentals on the front and Pirellis on the rear. I found it excellent in snow during the heavy snow of the winter of 17/18, when I used it for commuting across the Pennines from Skipton to Halifax. It kept going when rwd BMWs and fwd cars got stuck. The CD player does not work. I have the lead to do the iPod hack if needed. When is AC is on, the engines revs often hang around 1300/1400 rpm. Thanks for looking.
  11. Just answered my question - it ran poorly on the way home.
  12. Afternoon everyone. Just done an ecu reset using the pedal dance to clear an engine MIL. Do i need to redo all the other resets now inc rhe idle air?
  13. Got one now chaps, thanks Ian.
  14. Hi, looking for a replacement in full working condtion. Thanks Gareth
  15. Hi, I assume the throttle body has gone? Cheers
  16. Hi, thanks I did and he told me he's not shipping any body panels any longer.
  17. Hi, the car is a 2005, and I'm looking for both front wings in gunmetal preferably!
  18. Been round all the earth points in the engine bay, cleaned the straps and replaced most of the bolts. It did seem to make a difference for a bit (imagination?) but now its definitely back to normal. Wondered if it could be a problem the the VVT? It seems to work ok at high revs but if it was faulty could it cause it idle at 1500?
  19. In Houghton le Spring today! Very nice looking car, I liked the subtle rear wing as well.
  20. Cheers Chris, I've done all that and I even tried some silicone to seal the end of the accordion - made no no diff. Cleaned the pcv as well and the maf seems to be working ok cos when I unplug it the engine runs very poorly. Its like the revs are being held at the same point each time (around 1500), when it starts misbehaving - makes me think its something electronic - but the mil would come on surely?
  21. Trawling through the manual at the moment!
  22. Just a thought, I was going to check if there are any error codes, but then the MIL is not lit so that means there cant be any?
  23. To put his in context the car has had this problem since i got it - 5 years ago. I have posted before on here but never managed to sort it. Anyway, now that it is my daily, the problem is really bugging me. Usually the car will behave fine, it will idle around 700 with ac off, a bit more with it on and the revs will fall correctly when changing gear. Quite often though, when warm, the idle will sit at 1500 and returns behaving normally in its own time. Ive done the idle air learning loads of times, most recently yesterday after removing the tb and taking off the black cover and lubricating the gearing in case it was jamming (I also cleaned the tb after I had removed the gear between the motor and the butterfly). I'm now wondering if its a problem with the throttle position sensor on the throttle body or with the accelerator position sensor?
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