RobPhoboS

Type or c&p this into google: site:350z-uk.com Black Diamond

I'm just after a master cylinder cap for the 350z. Please PM if you have a spare ! (ZMANALEX unfortunately doesn't have one)

Welcome. Since you're new... you should always do a search as this kind of question is asked a fair amount. Essentially, no it doesn't unless you are adding a bunch of other things as well (decat, plenum spacer etc), sure, then go for it.

Just thought I'd update this. I've replaced all of the brake bleed valves and dust covers, then of course bled the brakes again with a friend (haven't bought a power bleeder just yet!). This has slightly improved the feel, and I did notice a couple of bubbles come out, and I tapped the calipers with my new (stinky) dead blow hammer to help out. I went around a couple of times, gently topped up the fluid so as not to get any air in that end. Of course whilst we did this the pedal felt amazing, then once the car was on the feeling was lost. I did make a minute adjustment to the pedal, which helped out. I'm wondering if there is still some bubbles trapped in the calipers or even the master cylinder, which perhaps the power bleeder may help for that Sealey VS820 & VS820UA bought (plus a new master cylinder cap if the universal adapter doesn't work) Hopefully it's just a case of needing to be bled a few times.

I mentioned it to Sly when I was there last and he'd do it, and it seemed like he recommended it rather than just another rocker cover that'll die again...

Far too expensive (imho), why didn't you take it to one of the vetted garages on here ? You aren't far off from Abbey or Kaizer Loads of the traders on here sell bushings OEM or far better than crappy rubber that'll deteriorate, polyurethane (Superpro, whiteline, Prothane etc etc).

cs2000 - watch this guy - he does the whole thing, albeit cocks up the drilling part

I'd be interested in a kit, just depending when you foresee doing it ? (I can't spend any more money this month!!! )

WIM are also very good (I took my old MR2 over to them after installing BC's on it): http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk Ex thread (Tony is the main guy there btw): http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=3480

Probably worth spraying some of that S50 stuff onto things like the underbrace etc (just cover up yer nuts!).

Could be from the same place here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/79573-re-trimmed-wheel/

It's not tooo far off but I used to go to JD modified - but I'll state right now, I've not been for about 3 years or so (used to be MR2 specialists), and I don't know the guys that work there, just James the owner: http://www.jdmodified.com/index.shtml Worth a call at the very least. Also glrnet recommended TGM Sport: http://www.tgmsport.co.uk/ http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/95568-reputable-service-near-staines/#entry1442940

My ones arrived this morning as promised. (double checked that both are in there, they are )

All of the BH stuff I've used for the past 3 or 4 years does exactly what it says it will do. I'd have no problem using any of their stuff, in fact I really do recommend having a few bits in the garage from their list.

Looking forward to seeing the pics ! I didn't bother taking any for my one but I'll try next weekend, just got the ARB's to do next

Haha. I'm glad I had that little camber tool (I'll check tonight but the Gunson tool I bought may fit inside the centre wheel cap once it's removed). I had to make the fine adjustments in a very small, quiet trading estate, completely flat surface. My parents drive really affected how off I kept setting it To make the adjustments, ensure you're on a flat surface, take a quick camber measurement, in my case a spirit level across the wheel rim, then using the camber tool in the middle to get an approximate reading. Then just jack up the front on the side you're working on, (you can check the camber again just to see how it is when the wheel is hanging in the air), I jacked it up so I could get to the nuts easier (19mm & 30mm). Undo the 2 locking nuts, and adjust the adjusting nut, lower it back down completely - and measure the camber again. (repeat as required ) When happy, tighten the 2 locking nuts. Feeling pretty good, both are set to around -1.5 however it just needs to be aligned properly again by someone.

Yep you're spot on mate, exactly as you stated in the last paragraph. Basically I've tightened up the outer ends as there isn't much thread I found, then you just undo the nut either side of the centre ball joint adjuster. So it's actually pretty simple in the end. Just got to have another play in a bit. Nearly there.

And just to note, someone else said to adjust using the ends. I'll get back on it in the morning.

Yep, that's why I was thinking adjust all 3 parts. Thanks for your input.

Hey guy's, I'm currently just fitting these new arms to the car. However before driving off to get a quick alignment done properly, I just wanted to adjust them myself. If anyone else has these, do you adjust all 3 or just the front one and keep the others done up (hopefully that makes sense). Weight is 2.2kg each (bit heavy but so be it) Here are some photos for you:

Yey my upper camber arms arrived as well. Seems to be 3 adjustments, on the rose joint ends and the main one. Is it a combo of all 3?

Yeah I had my dispatched email as well this afternoon

As I mentioned, they are just welded bits of metal - I personally think they are all the same GTSpec ones are the most expensive, thus people assume the 'best', I wouldn't worry mate, no reports of them exploding.

Welcome along Paul I sometimes head out that way, I'll drop you a PM when around.

Just a follow up, my ones will be sent out today to arrive on Monday, and they would have been with me now but I did make a small mistake when I ordered... I ordered one, not two They called to say that they must be fitted as a working pair unless one had failed past it's warranty etc.