RobPhoboS

Right, time for an update - and flipping heck it's annoying I thought it was worth removing the injectors to give them a clean, this is what came out: At the bottom of the jug after cleaning them... After putting them back in I was a bit careless (insert tired excuse here), I like a numpty didn't use any oil to lube the o-rings. Around 1 am I decided to head home. So I fired it up, let it idle for a while and went on my way. After about 5 mins I got a check engine light on, 2 of the faults were the usual cold weather and idling from the decats (o2 codes), the other was P0139 and I think P0159. I cleared it and drove on (through London, so very slow), after I got back I noticed the exhaust did smell a bit, possibly from running lean? I thought perhaps I hadn't pushed the injectors back into the block properly. So today I removed them and saw that yes I had fudged the lower o-rings up. I got some replacements that are the same thickness but slightly smaller diameter, it's all I could find on Sunday afternoon. This time I used some new oil on them, took my time and was careful putting them in. It doesn't feel like I could push them in any further, and with the bolts torqued down they are secure. I fired it up again and this time got: P1122 P0123 P0223 So I'll do the TPS reset and try again tomorrow. I did go for a short drive, initially it seemed normal but then was hesitating and sounding like a flat 4, so I came home straight away. I'll order the correct size o-rings, I did use the micrometer, they are: ID = 9mm C/S = 3mm. I did the plugs this time last year, I've not pulled them yet but will do this week.

It's alright guys, in the end didn't matter, couldn't use it today, O rings on injectors buggered. And when I opened the rad it was full anyway, after air pocket etc.

Hah, I knew someone was going to say that! I'm not in the position to use it though, I don't know how much came out, maybe 1ltr maybe more. I can get the Nissan stuff but obviously not now, I need to use the car soon, and in the morning... Thus in a pinch so not sure what to do. Or if to just plop in a bit of water.

Anyone? :-/

I spilt a bit of coolant, need to top it up, friend got me these two as it was green stuff that came out. Which can I use for now? The green one is this: http://www.commaoil.com/productsguide/view/6/519/XSG48M5L

Just to say, if you go lower than stock, which is likely heh, you're going to require camber arms. Also since you want to to track it, having them is no bad thing anyway since you want to to dial the geo in some more. I only dropped my car a little bit originally and needed them on tein springs.

My one was looking similar, got a tin of POR15, coated it and a bunch of other stuff.

Wow, many thanks for sharing more information ! That's interesting to see, and certainly encouraging to see how good these chinese companies are I need to start picking up some books to understand more on this subject

Just out of curiosity what was the reasons your detailing mate gave it the thumbs down? As it's a new product and I've never used it before It'd be good to have a professionals opinion on it I'm down there tomorrow, I'll ask for you. I thought it looked good, so I'm curious as well I sent the vids this time but maybe it has silicone in it ? I might still get some anyway

The other one is Hot Version: https://vimeo.com/hotversion And GT Channel.

Isn't this best motoring? It's still going, you can rent/buy from vimeo and YouTube iirc.

Oooh, might have to punt an order through - not yet, suspension gubbins to finish

Like the others have said, it's probably the W brace, easy and cheap enough to replace - it is literally just a brace under the car, not structural at all. I'd go and have a look, take photo's of the under side of it. That's where is it if you aren't familiar They end up looking like this if you don't coat it in something:

I got a thumbs down from my professional detailing mate for it. Shame, looks good ! I do use my Sonax BSD a couple of times a month. Very good but not ceramic good of course.

I think there's an app for imgur, so you can directly upload to it from yer blower

I'm thinking of these for my one (cobra, manifold back). http://www.decibeldevil.co.uk/

I want to do the manifolds as well, especially I have access to a ramp. The only thing is I need to try something for the exhaust on track days, I fear it's already over the db limit.

Cheers guys. I'll amend the first post to include what bits and bobs have been done, with ride height images, plus my alignment settings once I get that booked in. I think it's a touch lower than it was with the Teins now (although can be set higher) but I've not had a problem with the speed bumps in this area. I did shoot a little bit of gopro video of local roads back in Surrey, a before/after one. I'll get that up this week. It's not the greatest effort but should show that the GT1's at those settings gave a better ride

Well you can't unfortunately press a button that'll do it, as far as I'm aware (?). You'll have to download them, and re-upload them.

There is definitely something going on, I don't mean just because you don't use an adblocker. The site is clearly having work done behind the scenes but at the detriment of stability and usefulness. Any alternatives like Imgur are worth using for now me thinks.

I love the current Mustang, the updates look tasty too (imho). One thing... My good friend had one to detail at his unit, new and as he advised the owner to tell the dealership NOT to wash it or remove the protective stuff etc. (they mess up the paintwork every time) When it turned up we were both amazed at the quality of the paint work. It's the best I've ever seen, and I think in the top 2 for him. We've seen plenty of factory fresh cars from Ferrari, Lamborghini, Porsche, McLaren etc etc and their quality, especially compared to this example are truly poor. Actually the whole car was very nice indeed

I've noticed over the last few weeks that photobucket is getting slower and slower, to the point whereby I can't see anything from it if it's posted. I'm going to dump everything over to www.imgur.com Seems like that service is running properly

NOTE: I've updated the review to reflect the release of the 2018 version of the GT1's. In super short - Frigging awesome Yes - I shall be taking better photo's If you want to read the long winded bit... A tiny bit on the background: My car was on Bilstein B6 shocks, with Tein S springs which I installed back in February 2015, along with the Eibach ARB's, and since then the car has done around 12k miles. At that point I had some poly bushings and OEM rubber bushings, the B6's were replacing the completely worn out OEM suspension. It was a big difference, a little firmer at low speed but far more controlled over 40mph without feeling crashy at all. So I was happy, although I felt the steering response could be sharper. About a year later this led me to SPL bushings, which are metal and really suited for track work. I had installed camber arms and a number of SPL bushings which removed the slack and sticktion from the polys in several key areas. This improved the steering response vastly but of course increased the NVH dramatically, whilst that didn't worry me too much it wasn't a good combination with the B6's sadly. They seem to have an initial firm response, due to high gas pressure in the strut – better explained here (from 1min 25s onwards): So for a while it didn't bother me but started to become tiresome trying to dodge every single bit of rough road, drain cover or pot hole. This makes for tiring journeys at town/city speeds but as mentioned fine at higher speeds, as I guess the undulations are making the shocks work already, they felt good. During the winter months in 2016 I started thinking and researching about going to coilovers, the KW v3's were at the top of my list, initially. I have to say I was hesitant about coilovers from a previous experience on my old MR2. I had installed new BC 'BR' series, which unbeknownst to me had the hard spring option supplied. They were very crashy and I couldn't find a setting that I liked for the road. The build quality was good during my time with them but didn't suit our roads. I obviously made a post to get some feedback: http://www.350z-uk.c...vers-kw-v3-etc/ I have absolutely no doubt about how good the v3's are but after devouring many videos from the Suspension Truth youtube channels, you can pick up a few clues that he's sometimes critical of how the KW's are valved and that they are twintube, although I imagine the top kind you can find off the shelf. Once again, it's NOT to say they are bad just that it may not suit my particular needs. I also didn't want rebound and compression dials unless I was absolutely confident in how to set them properly, for both road and track. I prefer to just have one dial that goes from soft-hard but ideally one that does something meaningful as long as it measured/matched out properly. Remember that most of the cars I've read about are on rubber or poly bushings, so I had to be wary of any coilovers not providing enough comfort for most of my road driving. I will say right now that I was positively impressed with how Jerrick from Meister R had given some pretty detailed information on that thread, and on other posts as well as plenty of other forums. The usual thing happens were people are cynical, nothing wrong with that, it's good to get into a debate but this is the internet, so it usually deteriorates into stubbornness, even if it's well intentioned. I thought these were both good reviews and helped put me in the GT1 camp: http://my350z.com/fo...-coilovers.html http://civictype-r.c...p?f=30&t=287495 (if you look at the 4th post down, he had an issue that was quickly resolved) http://civictype-r.c...77539&start=380 He's pretty nifty at the ring too: So I emailed Jerrick, I can only say that the way he dealt with me was mightily impressive, especially considering the time of year, on new years eve for heavens sake ! (apologies about that!) We exchanged many emails over the last couple of weeks and I can't thank him enough for how good the experience has been. Yes obviously they want to sell products, I'm well aware of that but there wasn't any pressure pre-sale, and really helpful post-sale when I had a couple of technical-ish questions (and what they were are described below). Installation: I was hoping to get some help here, not for the physical procedure but so that I had some decent photo's to share of the process, unfortunately my friend was working. I can only apologise but the day I went to install them I did it by myself, and it had turned from rain to snow, so time fairly critical. Packaged very securely, you get the suspension, rear adjustment extenders and the custom C-spanners for the locking collars. These are unique from other ones I've seen, you have to slide them down/up over the teeth but they lock in tightly so they don't slip. Extra kudos for this design. If you don't have an impact wrench at home, just spend the £180 and get yourself a Keilder and impact sockets ! https://www.machinem...-18v-brushless/ Taking the B6's off is simple, there are enough videos on youtube showing how to do it, this being one of the more concise ones: I just unbolted the droplinks at the front to give me a bit more movement. And with the rear spring bucket, I only unbolted the outer bolt, you get enough clearance with some pushing to wiggle the spring and rubber cones out. The inner bolt adjusts the toe (iirc), so I'd rather leave it alone. I checked that both front GT1's were the same height, you can use a micrometer/tape measure for this. It's pointless comparing against the old shocks as they'll be different due to the springs etc, plus you'll have to adjust the height regardless. Installing the new suspension is very easy, they have clear instructions with them too, so ensure you read that. I cleaned and wire brushed the surface where the top mounts meet the body of the car as a bit of crud had collected up there. Obviously with the rear, open the boot, and remove the plastic covering on the brace, I took the top edge pieces off for the extender cable to go through. I ended up using the hole for one of the plastic popper fittings, and drilled a hole through this one, saved time having to work out any measurements. Once the plastic covers are back on the strut, I was left with quite a length piece of extender cable which I chopped down. A little tip here, after chopping to the correct length, it wont fit straight into the adjuster dial, so just unwind 4-6 of the individual wires and snip them off. With the rubber covered coiled sheath, I found I couldn't quite cut them but you can bend it whilst in the jaws of cutters and it'll just snap at a certain angle. Then it'll be thin enough to then securely get the dial back on. Ok, so its' on the car but now you've got the quite time consuming task of getting the ride height to how you want it. The process is simple, as outlined here: I'm pretty sure the ride height can go just above stock if you needed it ! I spent some time getting them as evenly matched as I could, and one thing to bare in mind that it'll settle down a little lower too. I just measured from the arch to the ground before it settled, once happy, drove it around for a few mins and checked again in the same spot as before for consistency. Yes, this took several hundred attempts Time for a drive: For me this is the scary bit, did I make a good decision and will they do what I was looking for ??? Namely, remove the harshness for normal low speed driving, retain controlled driving for higher speed stuff, and when needed perform positively at the track (coming soon-ish). I have initially set it to this but I'll continue to play around and see how it goes. -17 front -15 rear Thank f$%k for that Immediately a gigantic improvement at low speed, all of the sharpness has vanished, the steering feels good and the body is not wobbling or floating. Bonza ! Yes, the SPL bushings occasionally still rattle depending on the surface at LOW speed but by enlarge that is heard, not felt as it was before. It really is a remarkable difference, as it feels like they are working in comparison to the B6's. Moving on to motorway roads, it feels planted, the joints you sometimes get on them don't give the car any problems, and nor does it feel like it's wallowing with the undulations. Onto quiet back roads they just soak up our lovely (not) condition surfaces giving a greater sense of comfort and handling. Obviously I shall play around with the settings more, and I'd really like to see how it feels with the settings going towards 'hard', simply to feel what it does. I'll also try to measure the F/R frequency (approximately) and get it to what Shaikh calls 'flat ride' – not to be confused with ride height. I'm not claiming to be a suspension guru but I'm enthusiastic about learning more, and the technical aspects of it in order to take advantage for use in my own car. The GT1's have delivered, put a smile on my face and stopped me wincing driving on our crumbling infrastructure of roads. It's very early days yet, I've covered about 100 miles, and I'll be updating this post as time and experience moves on, I'm very much looking forward to track time with them. A big thank you to the people at Meister R and Black Art Designs, I think you've done great work (mods - possible to remove media limit when embedding youtube vids?)

A good way to identify (if belt):

I'd love to see some installation photo's if you can get that done