jell36

I might have the one you need, I'll check soon and let you know.

I've used the EZ kits before. So long as your not stupid, it's perfectly safe but the EZ kits never seem to fill the system properly and you get better air con performance if you get a garage to do it properly as they removes all the moisture too. Also there isn't much of a cost difference as the trigger is quite pricy for the EZ kit although it can be reused mulitple times.

Fair enough, just thought I would let the OP know that there are a couple of other options. Main reason i said it was because although I am in the East midlands, it's quicker for me to get to TDI than Abbey

You could try TDI north which is an Abbey sub dealer

I'm surprised it's still here too, the price is spot on as the Nismo Y pipe isn't very good. It's sods law, I spent 9 months waiting for a Nismo exhaist to come up for sale and then 1 month after I import one at a cost of £1350 this one comes up for sale. For anybody interested, the Nisom is a great exhaust, sounds like nothing else and is great quality. It may not have the y-pipe but even if it did, you would end up replaicng it after about a year anyway

Brillinat, thank you. I think I am going to order one of these now and go for the 70 durometer as that should be a happy medium between performance and comfort.

Looks good, did you noticed any increased noise, vibration or harshness from having it fitted? Tempted to fit one to my Z but I don't want any downsides to it. Also, always makes me laugh when parts are described as "CAD/CAM Design", unless it's a complex assembly (which this isn't) then there is no advantae of using CAD/CAM except for speed (I use CAD everyday).

So what mount did you use?

Thanks for your help gentleman. I've got it all running and installed now, just need to sort out the alignment of the head unit within the dash now as it's slightly off centre. Only thing now is I'm not sure I like the head unit . The feautres are great but the user interface when playing music is a bit too bland and boring with no pretty pictures or flashing lights so you may see it in the for sale section soon. Knew I shouldn't have listened to the sales mans "the Kenwood has a better user inerface, it's more grown up and slick and it's only a month old, overall it's a much better quality unit than the Pioneer" So think I may sell and get the Pioneer AVH-X5500BT instead. If anyone wants the Kenwood DDX6023BT then send me a PM

Yeah I've had alook for the guide you mentioned but I can't find it. The sub is currently working when I have the front and rear speakers plugged in (nothing plugged into the sub RCA's). I might just leave it like that unless it will make a big difference.

thanks Dave, much appreciated.

Ok, so I've got my new head unit which seems a decent bit of kit but I keep running into little problems during the install so thought I would start this thread so that I can get peoples help. My first problme was routing the microphone but that has now been sorted by running it under the steering wheel dash instead of around the back. The problem I now have is that the head unit has 2 sets of high voltage pre outs for front and rear speakers and a another 2 RCA's for the sub bit the in car tec loom only has 4 RCA's total, so how do I connect the sub? I have the bose system.

Ok, so today I purchased a Pioneer DDX6023BT head unit that comes with a plug in microphone. I have read the latest guide about fitting and so far it has gone well, the head unit works, steering wheel controls work and it's not too quiet. The problem I am having is routing the microphone. I have read the guides and they say to run it up the A pillar, I have removed the A pillar without any problems but how do I route the cable fomr the head unit to the A pillar? I have tried pushing a stiff wire through the cable conduit for 2 hours without success (I don't seem to be able to get the wire to come out on the A pillar side, I can't actually see the hole on the A pillar side and can't get the wire in from that said at all). Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions? Also the head unit has a rear USB and so I want to run a lead from the back of the head unit to the centre compartment where the OEM bluetooth module currently is, any ideas? Also the car is a facelift with satnav if that makes any differences.

No tickets yet but give it time

Ok, so I'm thinking of replaicng my bose headunit with something a bit more modern, improved sound along with more features. The mian thing I am after is customizable backgrounds, good user interface, large screen and most importantly a good hands fee bluetooth function. Has anybody got enay experience with the headunit below? http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_927667_langId_-1_categoryId_265857 Also Are the accessories, shown in the below link, everything that I will need? http://incartec.co.uk/nissan/1929/1034/2056/111/Browser.aspx

My handbrake used to be rubbish but then I did the bedding in procedure that is in the workshop manual (someting like decelerate from 20 - 0mph a few times using the handbrake) and then tightened up the cable from the adjuster inside the cabin and since then it has worked brilliantly.

Incredible work guys

Payment sent for 2 tickets and I only need the one car pass.

that happened to me a couple of months ago. Couldn't figure out why the 'sorry you were out' royal mail card said I had missed 2 packages and then when I collected them from the sorting office, it was 2 identical waxy boxes but it was the easter box so it meant I got 2 creame eggs

I'd be interested to understand more about this too.

Jetpilot - why don't you phone Mark tomorrow and ask him and post his response on here so we can all find out. That way your curiosity is settled, the rest of us don't bug mark with the same questions and we will all be a little bit more knowledgeable. Tinyflier may not know the answer as he may not have asked. Personally I would trust Mark's opinion and if I wasn't genrally so inquisitive I wouldn't ask him why, I'd just take his word as being the truth. I porvided one of the most common reasons above. But as a second reason, Nissan and gearbox manufacturers spend a hell of a lot of time developing, researching, testing and designing a gearbox. Everything in a gearbox is done for a reason of function, by adding moly slip you are adjusting some of the performance characteristics of certain parts within the gearbox. There is a specific reason why Nissan (or the gearbox design team) chose the specific weight of oil that they did, there will also be a specific reason as to why Nissan didn't add molyslip to the gearbox oil as standard and there will be a specific reason as to why Nissan didn't coat parts of the gearbox in a low friction coating (certainly not cost as it costs pence when done in volume) or use a PTFE or graphite filled material. And so Mark's answer could well be simply because if Nissan thought it needed molyslip then they would have added it. Now don't get me wrong, designers do make mistakes but not as often as people like to think. There is a lot to take in to account in a gear box design like inertias, backlash, noise, vibration, efficiency, pitting, modal frequencies, mean time to failure, defect per million, wear, heat transfer, thermal expansion, rapid cooling and the list goes on and on. Personally, I don't know if adding molyslip is good or bad for the gearbox but it certainly appears to be a good thing short term (no idea about long term yet) but I would be very happy to conduct some tests if someone wanted to provide me with a few gearboxes free of charge that I can conduct destructive testing on. Honestly, throughout my career I have had it a few times where end users think they know better about the assemblies that I design, change something to "improve it" and then when it fails earlier than expected they stand, scratching their heads and wondering why, and never think that it could be becuase their change now means that the assembly does not conform the specification that I set and spent a few years researching, understanding, designing optimising, testing and validating.

? how is that £7500 worth of damage? Even as Nissan prices I would have thought you were only looking at around £2000

There appears to be no pattern (mileage or time) to this issue but Nissan have upgraded the chain slippers and guides so they do recognise that there is an issue but will never admit it. Although I have seen a few of these issues it is still quite rare and really my view is that you do not have a problem until you have a problem and no one should really be overly concerned about potential chain, slipper, guide or tensioner wear. Alex. Much appreciated Alex

Alex - have you noticed if there is an average mileage at which the problem occurs or is it random? I know driving style will affect it greatly but just wondering if there's been a few at around the same mileage.

There are a few articles on the web that advise against molyslip, the article's main reasoning is that the synchros rely on friction for their function and the moly slip lowers this and so as a result degregates the function of the synchros. Contrary to this, many people on here have used moly in their gearboxes for a few years and had no issues and experienced improved gear changes. Personally, as a mechanical engineer, I think that there is a design flaw in the gearboxes and molyslip helps to downplay the results of the design flaw but does not elimiante it and over time could potentially cause it's own damage.