cs2000

Looks quite nice to be honest, to say it is just a shipping container. Id defiantly do that, especially considering the price.

They have badge snobbery. Imagine if your GFerman sports car shared the engine with a Vauxhall. Lol, theyre not bad cars at all as ive previously said

Exactly the same here. I not a professional spanner monkey, but in 12 months I wrecked 3 cheap socket sets, probably wasted 60 quid on those and that was with light use. A family member bought me a smaller Halfords Professional socket set for Christmas and its amazing, used it much more than all my others and nothing breaks! and the lifetime warranty helps if you happen to break a socket at all. They're quite expensive, but its an investment in the long run. Collecting mine on the way home from work, then need to hide it from the Mrs... we are SUPPOSED to be saving for a house, but the naughty traders on here and my ever cash hungry Zed are slowing progress somewhat...

Not sure if right place, but until midnight these are on sale, have reserved mine so here you are! http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_862443_langId_-1_categoryId_255215#tab1 These are normally priced at 159.99 so this is a bargain, everything in the box (aside from the ratchet heads) have lifetime guarantee and the store just swap them in-house if one ever breaks, the ratchet heads are excluded as they're "moving parts" Great deal as the Professional stuff is actually really good quality. EDIT: the deal of 59.99 is now over, but these are still a pretty good price of 79.99. picked mine up last night and its a great little set

That style of lights has been around for a few years now, were very popular ion the 206's, I always liked them and still do You will get import tax on them unless the package is marked down in value, time will tell.

So, RT, I know you said this would be several months, but just wondering if you went/are actually going ahead with this?

Now those are some welds!

When you say removed the damaged plastic what do you mean by this?Not the lens itself I presume? The reason I ask is that I seem to have internal smudging inside the lens and i have no idea whatsoever how to remove this? No, I meant the action of sanding has physically removed the UV damaged plastic.

This thing is going to be scarily fast....

haha I know, I didn't really realise it until BM pointed it out last week, then I noticed it ALL THE TIME! Damn you BM! I know youre a fairly long way away from me, but I may be backl in the future, as much as everyone keeps telling me to go somewhere closer!

LSP is usually Meguiars Ultimate quick detailer, however sometimes I finish off with a sealant. The headlights always get waxed along with the car with Meguiars ultimate wax, and sometimes even get a compound, polish then wax. Overall I just treat them like another body panel. They get no special treatment, but no less than the car gets.

haha is a very similar colour! Luckily with that being tape meant for making when painting it was pretty good with being wet, only had a few small areas that caused me trouble. I have previous used just the Plast-x stuff and yes after a week or so the yellowing came back. Im hoping that the work put into it by physically removing the damaged plastic will stop it coming back, but just for peace of mind, il look at some UV wax

No I havnt. I just assumed it was caused by the UV light degrading the plastic over several years, as in, yes it will come back, but in another 3-4 years orso, just bearing in mind the car is 9 years old, so its took 9 years to get to that state.

Lol D8NMT glad they arrived safely, was just trying to protect the wiring! Shame octet, hoped to see them on such a nice car

Hey all, so after seeing some inspiration over here http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/73480-headlight-cleanup/ I thought id give this a go, and document the process for anyone else who is nervous at doing this, like I was The entire process takes a little while, the longer you spend, the better the results, so bare this in mind. You will need the following. 1x, Painters Masking Tape, 1x Polishing Mop, 1x Foam Sanding Block, 1x sheet of 1000,1500,2000,3000 grit sandpaper and (because Rob63 kindly sent me some) some 8000 grit micromesh and finally something to polish them, personally I used Meguiars Plast-x and Autosol. So, mask off the area with the tape as shown. After this photo I doubled the size of the masked area just to be safe. You can see the offending yellow patches circled on the upper faces of both headlights. So, now get the 1000 grit paper and wrap it round the foam sanding block, wet it (seeing as were using wet & dry), then sand sand sand until its all one texture. In my example, I sanded in straight lines and did 50 motions, so if I was sanding from top to bottom, id hit the top 50 times. I then moved the pad left, and repeated, trying as much as possible to keep the strokes all in 1 direction. After 10 mins orso, this is what it looks like. You will notice some change of direction in the sanding on the front of the lights, it was difficult to get this area sanding top to bottom so switched left to right for the bottom 3rd of the light. Next, wipe it all down, then go at it again with 1500 grit, alternating the stroke direction this time. Again I kept at 50 strokes as this seemed to get rid of the previous sanding marks. Hmm, not a lot better, this is where I started to panic. I forgot to take photos of the 2000 grit level, so the next one is the 3000, and again, keep alternating the stroke direction & keep the paper wet. This looks a lot better, but still.... So, finally as mentioned rob63 sent me some 8000 grit micromesh. This thing feels kinda like leather, its hard to imagine it does ANYTHING let alone sands plastic. Its also extremely durable. My guess is that the sanding particles are so close together, it cannot get clogged like regular paper does. So, use the same process of keeping the paper wet, but this time using 100 strokes, you get this. Much better. Now. get out your drill and the polishing mop and then polish of your choice. I started with Autosol as its more abrasive, and then switched to Meguiars Plast-x afterwards. After a through polish on each we end up with this. From here I washed and waxed everything and even the micro scratches you can see in the last picture have gone. In trust, it probably need another 10 mins orso per headlight using a proper rotary polisher, or some serious hand work, but looks 10x better than before, especially after a bit of wax. very pleased overall

SO, did this at the weekend. Mine is a 04 plate car currently on 59,000 miles. Passenger side bolt came off, I used a 2ft breaker bar. Had to keep pushing it but the bolt suddenly snapped loose and I hit my hand on the floor ouch. Anyway, then got some wood and hit the axle out, only thing is, I couldn't really see where to grease, so I unwound the bolt some more, then some more, then some more until it was only on by 2-3 threads, hit it again and the bolt went wonky....uh-oh... Luckily I took it off and saw only minimal damage. After lubricating best I could I very slowly and carefully hand tightened the nut (using the socket for a better grip) and forced it to go on level. I damaged the first 2 ish twists on the bolt end, but the nut was largely fine, once past the initial few threads it went on and torqued up fine. Spin round and do the same on drivers, oh no... Got to undoing the bolt and left it soaking with Plusgas for 15 mins or so just in case it was seized, got out the bar and no way in hell was it moving, so soaked it again, still nothing, tried using some heat, STILL nothing. Luckily I called a garage close to me and they said to pop by. This was 11:30 and the garage closes at 12, so I dropped the car down off of the jack, oh $h1T.... I forgot to put the wheel back on!!! so now i was stuck with 3 wheels on my wagon and a jack stuck under the rear dif with no room for me to get anything into the jack to lift it up again! lol. Luckily I had a hammer so I lifted the jack handle part up, and then hit it down with the hammer, this raised the car an inch orso, enough for me to get the proper handle in. Thankfully the jack being stuck on the dif stopped it from hitting the deck, but the brake disk was only clear of the floor by 2 cm orso, very close. I quickly popped over with all my tools in the car and he got it undone in a few seconds as they had a bigger tool, im guessing a 4-5 ft breaker bar, still took all his weight for a few seconds to get it to move however, and again, when it let go it suddenly let go and the mechanic almost face planted the floor, I actually thought he had snapped the breaker bar by the speed he went down. Anyway, I tightened it up with my tools, went home and then un-did it again and greased that side too. So two points to note here. 1. The bolts are liable to suddenly let go, but need a hell of a lot of force, be aware that your likely to hurt your hands or face plant the floor unless using air tools. 2. As for moving the axle, I found a piece of wood was great initially, but it was actually better to totally remove the nut and fold up some thick cardboard, shove this inside the hole so it covers the bolt and then lightly tap this with a hammer until you've moved it enough. This allowed me to get a larger gap in which it was easier to lubricate, and as long as your careful you wont lose the axle. 3. Even on an 04 with medium mileage the axle moved very freely, you shouldn't need to beat the heck out of it to get it to move. TLDR: clicking solved, 1 hand and 1 mechanic slightly injuired.

All gone (possibly), people whove got them you know who you are . And to go back ontopic, OP has requested one

Strange, it SHOULD (logic would say) be a physical water sensor. Way back in the days of 206's my GTI had auto wipers, the sensor was in the rear mirror stalk. You could cover the sensor up, blow on it, push it, shout at it, but nothing aside from getting it wet would trigger the wipers. It even worked it you licked your finger and hold it on the sensor, but as I say, didn't work when your finger was dry.

Nothing, the reasons being, I don't have a 370, so cant verify 110% that they work (despite many comments from my source saying they do), and I got them for nothing so im not profiting on that, just drop me a PM. 2 left now.

Oh, I cant agree more with the statement of marking. Mine was 100% perfect, until it left RT's where it seemingly developed some marks on the way home! not scratches, but almost like swirl marks you get on regular paintwork, but in a straight line. Think its just one of those things.

Don't worry about it mate, the black ones are more expensive then the silver because they're more expensive to buy, and on 75% of the orders I get customs charges, others I don't, and silver I never do . Payment received and noted on the first page

Also something I considered before the Zed (albeit the turbo version, which STILL manages 30MPG!). Test drove one and was impressed with the handling but the rather sparse interior, and the inevitability of having to use this thing day in day out in all weathers and I soon changed my mind, just wasn't practical for my lifestyle, even with no kids. If you can live with it though, they're lovely cars to drive, have to stir the gears a lot more than the Zed as I didn't think it pulled greatly at low RPM's, but push it and you will leave almost anything behind you.

I don't know, don't have a 370 myself, have just managed to get a few disks, the install is on 5 DVD's. The first DVD just updates the system software, the other 4 include the latest full European maps as the 2013 disk isn't yet available. 3 sets left now.

So whens the order for the "NI0212503 - GTS (Ultimate Sport Performance: Dual Side) Ti - $2,998" kit going in then Just be careful with the FI on the auto box. (disclaimer, Ive no ides when it comes to auto boxes so...) BM's brother supercharged his Auto Celica, the box lasted about 2 weeks before is exploded. He went from 190 BHP to about 350 ish. Perhaps the Zeds box is stronger, I certainly hope so!

Im voting for lack of water, or a block in the system. The stalks wont pop out if the pump is dead, the system uses the water pressure to move them out (there are no separate motors or anything.