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Everything posted by cs2000
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Righty-o 1. Buy a 3.5mm to 3.5mm headphone socket, sometimes called Aux in cable and perform the surgery required. Its not hard, but just take your time! 2. This connects to the headphone socket on the iphone (or any other phone for that matter that has a standard headphone socket) 3. Theres 2 ways of doing it. In this post of the guide http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/45398-bose-phono-ipod-hack-guide/#entry686203 if you remove the spring and slider as shown, you can just push tape whenever you want and it will switch to that input. This of course means you've disabled the tape deck. If you kept this in place, you would need a empty tape that just has the reels but no tape to sit in there all the time when you wanted to play your iphone music. Also, Husky says to cut the tracks (in the same post). Don't do this if you want the tape deck to actually work. 4. Yes it can but this is a separate mod that involved wiring in a cig lighter extension socket with a USB charger inserted into this and then the iphone USB cables plugged into that. The Bose unit itself cant charge the iPhone. I did the entire mod shown http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/45398-bose-phono-ipod-hack-guide/page__st__100#entry1038309 in a day. Just make a list of parts, double check it and get it all done. You will get interference however if your charging and playing music. Havent pinned down why precisely, but as I have an iPhone 5, im blaming it on the two ports being very close to each other and as such there is EMI being emitted from the charger socket which is causing the feedback on the aux jack. Don't suppose youre near Suffolk?
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Yep, with basic tools its an hours job. Its not the CV joint, despite this being exactly the same symptom as a CV joint. Sticky thread in 350z general I think
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We have this where I live. boils my blood. Tax money wasted apparently.
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Can the other 4 members who have had the nav disks from me just drop me a PM with your address again please. ive remembered three people, you should have a PM already, but forgot one name, applogies.
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Same. Ive managed it 3 times now with removing the 6 plastic clips ontop of the bumper, remove the 3 screws in each where arch and then 2 screws on either side underneath the bumper, this allows you to flex the bumper enough to unscrew the reflectors.
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I guess theyre good for people who want wire wheels, but without the hastle of cleaning. I dare say from a distance on the right car they'd look good.
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wow they're ugly, but im sure someone will love them!
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Agreed, I have driven a few convertibles, none that im proud of, but for me its driving at night with the roof down, and ive no idea why
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Its considered bad practice to "daisy chain" Ethernet switches. But not that ive ever seen any issues with it in my experience.
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Seen all of their videos, whoever they are...
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Matt's Azure Adventure! - Decats & Japfest prep Pg.21
cs2000 replied to mattross1313's topic in Member Build Projects
When I ran mine it was using a Pentium 4, desktop class RAM, a full sized 3.5 inch hdd and a DVD drive,, yours looks like a Intel Celeron, laptop ram, obviously ssd and no DVD drive so id suspect you should be fine, but il drop you a PM -
Oh, so cyclists do see lights??? They seem to miss those massive red ones that cars stop at as they just go whizzing by. /rant Back on topic No light suggestions, but flashing lights were (bizarrely) made legal in 2009, and theres no maximum brightness , no specific beam pattern, just a height restriction saying it cant be higher than 1.5M above the ground , current lighting regs in readable English are below. http://www.ctc.org.uk/cyclists-library/regulations/lighting-regulations
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Matt's Azure Adventure! - Decats & Japfest prep Pg.21
cs2000 replied to mattross1313's topic in Member Build Projects
Matt, how are you powering the car PC? If you want, I have a 120W bare board Power supply unit specifically designed for car or boat installation. I used it when I had a car PC for my 206. You can move some jumpers around on the board so the PC stays on for like 15 seconds, 30 seconds, 5 mins etc after you turn the car off so if you just pop into the shops the PC doesn't have to boot up whilst you buy a pint of milk. Also has the correct wires to sense when the car has started up and then will boot the PC. Has sat in my box of parts unused for about 3 years, but it does still work and just thought you may like it if you don't have a solution already. EDIT: Just re-read, M2-ATX, that's what I have. Could always send yours back and take mine for a lot less cash -
553bhp & 465 lb/ft 370Z Full Amuse with Greddy Twin Turbo
cs2000 replied to Adrian@TORQEN's topic in Member Build Projects
Looks like (just from the picture) a 370z version of the D1 Spec throttle controller -
Interesting read, I think its a shame they scrimped on the creature comforts such as a proper heater and movable passenger seat + steering wheel as I guess this puts many people off. The sparse interior certainly did that with me. However, on my drive back from London Friday I saw two of them (bizarrely, as I never see these) one silver and one orange and I always stare at them, lovely looking cars in real life
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Some good prices on the DBA disks on your site. Looking forward to seeing the whole ZMANALEX inventory added!
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Look ace! I fixed mine over the weekend. As I said in post 1, my prototype models were wired differently, this compromised the waterproof-ness of the unit and so the LED's failed after a few weeks, plus the solder joints were nowhere near as good and there was too much stress on the joints. I now have a set fitted wired the same as you guys now that orders have tailed off I actually had time to fix mine! haha
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I have another copy of disk 2 which il post out to him Monday. Hopefully this works. If so il create copies for you all and send out. Got another plan if this fails too. EDIT: Quick one just to say the re-burnt disk 2 worked for Andy, but now he's stuck on disk 3, defiantly hold off on these updates guys for now but chuck away disk 2 and disk 3, they're useless. Disk 0 and Disk 1 work fine, and disk 4 MAY work. I'm re-burn another set of disk 2's using the method that worked for Andy, then il test disk 3 with him and disk 4 if necessary. Il post the fixed CD's out to you guys as soon as I know what works and what doesn't. The updates will eventually work, it just seems as though the DVD's all need burning at a very slow speed for some reason, each disk takes roughly 15 mins compared to 3 if burnt at full speed.
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Guys, just had a pm from Andy. It seems disk 2 gets stuck and leaves half installed maps, which means no navigation . I'm going to try and get something sorted. For now, it's fine to install the disk 0, but avoid doing the map updates, need to find out what's up.
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Whey someone tried them out! Lol Yep the maps update is a fat one. The rough time people talk about is 2 hrs. Better fill up with fuel as you need to leave the car running!
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Help please might have buggered my rear drive shafts.
cs2000 replied to Pete87's topic in JDM imports
no, I could move mine with light taps with a normal household type hammer, shouldn't be stuck unless you've managed to bend it or something -
Was the same last month with the cherry stuff, smelt lovely for 1-2 mins and seemingly went away, then when left sealed up in a non-moved car for a few days smelt like eggs. I wonder if the blind test product is a test. Something hideously expensive but labled with Waxybox own label sticker to see if people just say something looks good because it has a brand name, and therefore people will be so-so about this item
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Help please might have buggered my rear drive shafts.
cs2000 replied to Pete87's topic in JDM imports
When I did mine I too broke the bolt side of things, ended up damaging about 2-3 threads. Luckilly the nut wasn't damaged and I managed to get it back on straight with a bit of force. Id try taking a file to the bolt side of things and cleaning it up, make sure theres no excess metal lying around and the threads are as straight as possible, and then as above, give Alex a shout for a new nut.