ironhide

Skills.

How many nuts are are they locking?

Which set of nuts did you go for? Also where did you get the bonnet dampers, very interested

Red please. Looking at the instructions on the Stillen site it mounts much lower than the original diagram, somewhere below the power steering fluid resevoir and the the PS pump - which makes more sense really as it's more secure and takes the pressure off the suspension and plenum so the force is more centralised. http://www.stillen.com/prodfiles/307355~inst.pdf

Was watching a the latest Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocal the other day. Did anyone else spot the 350z that gets blown up at the Kremlin? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1f85Wa8UM64

+1 That's a good list. Enjoy.

Ah, I'm with you. I'll wind my neck in then lol. I forgot about the small hard pipes. Aren't they just the rear though?

Braided lines just replace the rubber bit between the hard pipe and the caliper, not the entire pipe. When I first did them I definitely felt there was more force coming from the brakes, but it's difficult to gauge as I had new discs and pads done at the same time.

Cheers guys, I'll probably get x3 bottles of RBF600 and get the system completely flushed using a pressure system to draw out the old stuff. I can't see the need to use RBF660 as it's not a race car and a more than twice the price a bit overkill for my needs. Seems the consensus is boiled fluid though. I think i'll probably upgrade the pads before the next track day as the yellowstuff still has plenty of life left in them for the moment, but will inspect them when I flush the fluid next weekend. Cheers for the help chaps.

Great video, nicely edited

I got my fronts redone recently using Lumar film from a professional tinter (Tintinit in Wiltshire). Fronts are 35% and rears are 50-70% which sort of gives the effect that the windscreen is tinted and gives the car stealth look without being OTT. It is illegal, let alone lunacy to tint your windscreen. Get a professional to do it as it's a tough job to get right. Do it cheap, do it twice IMO.

P.S. Didn't realise you were at Japfest, could've picked up and paid for the rad panel I have for you

Ditto

That's encouraging at least, thanks. So that either means the fluid boiled or there's an air bubble in the system. In either case I assume a flush of fresh RBF600 should suffice? I might upgrade to DS2500's as well.

The stock fluid was flushed and replaced with RBF600 in August 2012 Front discs and pads were added May 2012. Rear discs and pads added along with the braided brake lines were fitted Jan 2013.

Hi guys. Did my first track session in the zed at Japfest this weekend and had a few issues with my brakes. I've done Japfest track sessions before in my old Altezza, Celica and MR2 without braking issues so this was a first. By current setup: Motul RBF 600 HEL braided lines EBC blade discs EBC yellowstuff pads In the first session the first couple of laps I admittedly held the brake some time going into the first few corners so I could gauge what sort of speeds in and out of Quarry in particular, but after a few laps going into the chicane the pedal pretty much went to the floor and was spongy for the rest of the session so had to take it easy. After the session I noticed that pedal goes right to the floor and feels spongy with a slow spring back. I also noticed a slight blue tint particularly in the rear discs. For the second track session (Zed track time), when braking, the pedal felt soft but by releasing then immediately pressing again the pad bite was much stronger and more efficient allowing for a much more enjoyable track time until my tyres (Kumho Ku31's) started to give way a little, luckily that was at the end of the session. Driving home they felt spongy unless I press, release then press again - that's when they felt good. Today however, they actually feel not to bad on the roads, but then I wasn't pushing them. Also the blue tint has faded and nearer grey now. So my questions: Is the blue tint in the discs anything to worry about? Could this be a combination of poorly broken in discs/pads? And/or...Could it be an air bubble being present in the system and the track session just made it more noticeable due to expansion and heat and then double tapping the pedal allows the brake to operate before the bubble can expand again? Will another flush cure this? Or did the fluid boil, if so should I change to RBF 660? What about a flush and upgrade the pads to DS2500? (assuming the discs are ok?) or are the discs a write off? I've posted pics of the discs below. You can see the rings running through the centre of all the discs, doesn't really show the blue tint that well. NSR NSF OSF OSR Any help much appreciated. Cheers

Oh yea...need to find out about that one as got plenum spacer as well I've recently replaced my strut brace botls as i've raised to accommodate the plenum spacer, got some stainless bolts of eBay dirt cheap and work perfect, for this damper you might just need to buy one that is slightly longer again for the mount...easy.

PM'd

Assuming decent fitment ill have one too. 1. Trigg 2. TheHeff 3. Ironhide

Updated list with who's paid and who's left, those still awaiting from payment you have PM's 1) Ironhide - Purple - Completed 2) Aus10 - Gold - Payment at Japest 3) Marzman - Blue - PAID and Collecting at Japfest 4) Paddy78 - Blue - PAID 5) Evilscorp - Black - PAID 6) Plummerman - Blue - PAID 7) Stanzed - Black - PAID 8) smudgeon - Purple 9) kiingsi - Gold - PAID 10) CrumbMC - Red - PAID 11) KyleR - Orange - PAID 12) Ceejay29 - Red - Payment and Collecting at Japfest 13) SuperStu - Red - PAID 14) Pnthrblkzs - Gun metal grey - PAID 15) MWTech - Purple - PAID

That's not the first time i've heard that when compared to the VX220 - it's a great fun car, especially in the sun.

Yep. Got rid of them as soon as we got it. I found both kirks were just too much, the vibrated so much it was in bearable, with on it gives the stiffness required without being over the top.

Hi all, my MR2 is for sale...it has to make way for a family car...booo!!! MR2 has full TRD style bodykit (inc rare rear diffuser), TRD style spoiler (with brake light), Tein suspension, rear chassis supports, carbon vinyl wrapped bonnet, JVC Bluetooth/MP3 headunit, single kirks engine mount insert, upgraded front bushings, HEL braided brake lines and regular servicing. In the last month it has had x2 new tyres, new front discs & pads, professionally sprayed front bumper and spoiler, all 4 alloys refurbished & painted white, fully synth oil and filter change and full brake bleed/flush. Last year it had a new CAT installed. Hood is perfect with no leaks, rips or tears. 86k but still runs very well. Engine is smooth and pulls well throughout the torque range, achieved 147bhp on the dyno a few years back and showed excellent torque figures. (With supporting mods which have since been removed and sold) Has 1 months tax and MOT is due end of July 2013. Last year it sailed through bar replacing the CAT. Does have a few minor chips and scratches and two small dents but overall the body and paintwork is in excellent condition for it's age. Looking for £2995...is also posted on Pistonheads. Many thanks.

I can't see how this'd fit to the suspension mount, surely it's direct to the chassis? Looking at pics on the interwebs it's either the strut brace or chassis. As above, who is the manufacture? And any pics of it fitted?

Hey all, Everyone should now have been sent PayPal/bank transfer details, don't forget to please send marked as a gift and include the postal address Yesterday I received two production panels from the fabricator and I have to say they are looking sweet. The remainder of the panels have been cut and are on their way to the anodisers to get finished, they do have a bit of a backlog so it's going to be a couple of weeks, hopefully sooner but i'll keep you posted. If you're going to Japfest it might be more convenient to collect from me there and I can refund £10....that's an option for some if it comes to it. Also i've done a little instal guide below as there is a little bit of tweaking required to the bonnet latch to get a good fitment and it wasn't immediately clear first time I tried, so this might help. 1) Pop the hood and remove the plastic clips that secure the bumper to the rad mount, also locate the bonnet latch, more specifically the three bolts that hold it in place (see photo below). 2) Loosen but don't remove the bolts using a 14mm socket, they shouldn't be too tight. Only loosen a couple of turns so the latch is fixed but with pressure can move slightly. 3) You should now be able to move the latch up approximately 1mm. It doesn't need much force and you don't want to go too high, you can use the marks left on the bolts for reference as to how high you've gone. 4) Now tighten up the bolts once you think you've got it in position. 5) Place the panel where it should sit but don't secure with the plastic clips: 6) Lower and close the bonnet and ensure that the latch engages without causing play. The bonnet needs to be secure but without being too tight that you have to force it shut. 7) You may need to re-adjust the latch accordingly until you get it right, took me about 3 times before I was happy the bonnet was secure. 8) This is optional but I added some tape to the under side of the bonnet either side of the latch hook (Whatever its called) this helps stop it rubbing on the panel as I noticed on the prototype it left a small mark, but the bonnet was a tight fit. 10) You're done. Replace the plastic clips to secure the panel and admire your handy work/cover the panel in stickers or whatever you like to do in your spare time. Thanks all!