ilogikal1

I'm not going to lie, it's my favourite new toy for some time. Aside from replacing a broken trigger with a better quality alternative, I can't see any reason to extend the short trigger. Somewhere to store the nozzles would be nice though - I know you can get the attachment which stores them, but I object to even extending the gun by that much. I might look into cobbling something together to store them with the pressure washer instead (or rather, hope that someone else does so I don't have to. ).

I promised updates. I have updates. And by updates, I mean reviews. First and foremost, if you have a pressure washer and don't have one of these: ...you're missing out. Now if I remember right back in pre-apocolypse, I hadn't managed to switch my foam lance over to the quick release fitting shown in the picture. Well I've now done a thing, so to provide a proper review of this; it's a massive improvement. It's much easier to use properly than the 18 foot lance that comes as standard with pressure washers for reasons literally no one can explain*. With the three nozzles (15, 25 & 40 degree fan pattern) it's a lot more versative, easier to handle (f'nar) - especially single handedly (ooer). The swivel inlet is a worthwhile investment too - no more kinky hose (that's what she said) when moving about. *Someone probably could explain but I'm not accepting any excuses so if you can explain, please don't, plzkthx. In case anyone is wondering, I now have one foam lance set up for this and one with the fitting for the standard lance on still. Now me being me I can't not compare one thing to another, and I can confirm there is no noticable difference in performance between the two guns; the only operational difference is that the one on the standard fitting is in a fixed position, so if you rotate the gun then the lance rotates with it. On the short gun, the quick fitting basically means it spins - so if you rotate the gun, the weight of the foam bottle essentially self levels it. Not a huge problem as you're quite likely to be using the standard gun two handed (because it's a million feet long) to stabalise it, so you can just use your other hand to rotate the bottle independently of the gun anyway. That also becomes a handy feature for the nozzles too - they too rotate in the gun and therefore you can adjust not only the angle but also the pattern of the spray very easily without having to hold the gun at uncomfortable angles. Word of warning though, the nozzles only rotate when the trigger is not depressed. When you're firing water through it, the pressure makes it difficult (at best) to rotate it in the gun. I'm sure I've mentioned it before, but mine if from Direct Hoses (clicky) - they do Nilfisk & Karcher versions for most people, a Macallister version in case the person who bought one of those is on here, as well as a Kranzle version for the posh rich boys and girls (servants). I'm being lazy with my reviews these days - you're getting no new pictures with this one. I'm not even trying. Or sorry. I have more but the pubs are open again so you lot are second favourite again so you'll have to wait.

My initial thoughts are; latest hype product, with a very strong caveat that I've not actually used or tested any personally (yet). And for the price of graphene products, I'm in no rush to either . I am, however, currently judging based almost entirely on the brands which have released graphene coatings to date.... There's very few large, respected brands that have adopted graphene into their line ups (that's not to say they're not developing products, I know a couple that absolutely are). From what I've seen from people I actually know and, more importantly, trust; TL/DR: Current graphene coatings don't do anything new that (good) ceramic coatings don't already do. Some just does certain things a bit differently. However, it's early days for graphene and there is potential in the science behind it. Pros - Graphene is apparently a slicker finish. Meh - Application: it's not easier or more difficult to apply than ceramics - rather just different, you can't treat them the same way - so it comes down to user preference on application. In terms of looks, it's pretty indistinguishable. Chemical resistance: nothing in it. Ceramics tend to "clog up" quicker than graphene - whilst there's little-to-no difference in terms of self-cleaning ability, ceramics do need a proper clean to retain it's water behaviour whilst graphene doesn't... but graphene are infinitely more prone to water etching than ceramics are to water spotting. Basically when you see water spotting on graphene it'll need to be polished out (taking the coating with it) whilst water spotting on ceramics can be chemically removed without affecting the coating. (i.e. ceramics will lose it's hydrophobic ability over time if left, whilst graphene won't - but ceramics can be revived with the right shampoo whilst graphene can't). Cons - Durability: the above point notwithstanding (i.e. ceramics do need a bit of care, albeit not topping up), ceramics win hands down. Graphene coatings aren't terrible, but the existing offerings aren't as durable as a good ceramic coating when both are properly applied. Also graphene tends to fall off a cliff whilst ceramics will deteriorate over a period of time until failure.

Yep, both are tried and tested, as is FK1000P, FWIW. FK1000P does a pretty good job, but still needs regular top ups. Coatings will last longer (~10months from C5 & ~8-9months from Rim in my experiences on exhausts). Still requires regular cleaning to keep on top on - especially inside - but a coating means it's a matter of a weekly-or-so wipe down really. If you've already got some lying around, throw it at the exhaust. You'll be glad you did.

A coating is your best bet, tbh. Pretty much any wheel coating will do so do your rims first then throw the remainder at the exhaust. GTechniq C5 or Gyeon Rim would be my choices.

That depends entirely on if you like "celebrities" or just complete randomers to form your opinions for you.

I think you’ll find, Daniel, that this is the ONLY way to figure stuff out; fire up YouTube and wait for someone to tell you what your opinion is. Preferably with pretty (moving) pictures, because words are hard.

After literally (a) year's worth of delay, I have news.... Updates! ...like winter, are coming. Or at least may be coming. Soon. Ish. Maybe within the month. Possibly. Not actually promising that. When they do happen, there should be a few of them though. So there's that. That's it. That's all I've got right now. I'm not even sorry.

It's a shame Nissan never did anything to address the collapsing suspension, given all this evidence and all.

Whoever’s painted that last time hasn’t done the right prep. Take it to a decent paint shop and get the whole boot lid done properly.

Take your pick: https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/types/005r/ Stick your reg in and double check, but pretty sure any of those will do you - personal choice would be a toss up between the Bosch or the Varta though. Failing that; https://www.tayna.co.uk/tools/battery-wizard

Few, or even just one, is the point. That people "will get off" ipso facto means it's not a guaranteed ban.

Nick Freeman has made an entire career out of proving this to be pure myth.

Theres no such thing as an instant ban. Its a direct to court hearing where there’s a potential ban, retake your test and fine, but it’s at the court’s discretion; likely, perhaps, but not guaranteed.

VXR8. * £20K - 25K; check * 4 Doors; check * 4 Seats; check * Decent Boot; check * Same speed / power as a Zed minimum - shouldn't be too hard in this day and age!; check * Nice modern day cabin; nevermind.

Ignoring the massive can of worms that expelling those clubs would open for a moment (let's not pretend for a second that lawsuits wouldn't be filed). Kicking them out would cause an interesting dilemma for the PL - do they remove the points gained from those teams who were expelled? Or award the points dropped, plus 3 points for all games not yet played? It would be the footballing equivalent of all of those ridiculous stewards enquiries after the race to determine final classification. The clubs can't be expelled midseason and the PL just allow the points to stand as they are. I'm far too lazy to see how that would affect the table, could change things a fair bit though though (...well, less so City's results actually ).

I’m actually not sure who of the “big six” was worse in the whole thing; the four who wanted to run it or City/Chelsea who “didn’t want to be left out”.

IIRC Samsung (if not wider Android) changed the bluetooth protocols around the S6/7 (ish) and it's not compatible with the module. I seem to recall someone reached out to Nissan and Samsung, neither were at all interested in fixing it, so the only fix is an older Samsung, an iPhone or a new head unit/handsfree device. Or ditch all your friends so that no one calls you - at least no one you're interested in talking to.

Prettier switch panel. Nice mod. Also, the centre positioned steering wheel is an interesting touch with the offset seats.... (or it could just be the camera angle ).

The entire thing looks a bit peculiar from every angle...

Of course I have. It's pretty easy stuff to use, just have decent lighting if you're working on silver wheels so you can see where you've applied. Other than that, make sure the wheels are clean and dry first, apply in a cross hatch pattern (work systematically, it helps to ensure coverage), take your time to spread it properly and buff out any smudges. When you're finished, make sure you haven't lost (and do reuse) the seal for the bottle and anything left over* will last a lot longer than it should for another time. Wash everything else thoroughly to prevent crystallisation of product and you're good to go. Once cured, it should last the best part of a year or so. *If you take your time, you'll probably have some left over, but not enough to do another full set of wheels - it can be used on a number of surfaces though (pretty much anything painted or metal actually). IIRC the instructions suggest to dispose of cloths when you're done with them - I've found if you soak them immediately after use (have a bucket of water or something nearby and dump spent cloths in there when finished) you can reuse them, but just be aware that they could have crystallised product in them before you use them on paintwork. The applicators in particular are useful for all sorts!

It's Scholl S20 black.

If you're doing it by hand, I'd still recommend S20 over G3 as it finishes down better. Also you'll probably want a hand polishing pad that'll help with the cutting (and save your arms to some degree) - either a medium cut or a light cut depending on how bad it is. If you can catch your nail on it though I'd skip straight to the machine polishing.

If the purpose is to drive insurance premiums, just pick the one that offers the best discount, surely?

I agree with everything Ekona says, except... I’d go with S20 myself. The AG SRP you e used is full of fillers, so the scratch will come back as soon as you wash the car again. You can go the filler route (there are better than AG, but as you have that already you could stick with that) to mask the damage, but it needs to be done regularly and topped with a wax or sealant to last more than the first rainfall.