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Everything posted by Keyser

  1. Keyser

    Nitrous Oxide

    I have no NOS it's Stelath To answer the OP what there views of installation Did that myself - copied the installation from the Zed I took it out of (Wasso's) set up Done by Dan at AME when I went up for my last Dyno run and usage is? MUHAAAAAAAAAAAAA Whenever I can - so not much in the weather How much did they pay to get the whole system up and running - I did a lot myself and bought the system second hand and still spent a few K I doubt you would do it for less than £2,000 mapped in.
  2. DoogyRev x2 Jay x 1 Keyser x1
  3. The glass is always half empty with you Not that it's not a valid point
  4. Suppp ....... Dunno where to start lots of little bits going on, OK First a huge shout out to Buster he's da man On his travels he found and negotiated me these at a bargain price 12" Mini Mags (or I think that's what they are ) don't care they are perfect In very good nick just need a paint and with a set of nearly new tyres Did a bit more on the new hole Next I assaulted this This is where the heater feed comes back into the car and of course it has been plated So I beat it with a hammer until it gave up so inside is good got to clean up the outside under the wing Then onto the dash, this is not perfect anymore due to a modification (when rally prepped) for the steering rack It's quite bad So you know me ............ yes I cut it out I'm a big man (not really but) I'll hold my hand up to this - I made a bit of a booboo Just a momentary lapse in concentration while using the big angle grinder and it kicked on me taking a chunk out of the upper dash I'll sort that later cut the dash from the donor shell and popped that into the new shell only had time to finish the first weld but it's looking very acceptable Think Bob is round to carry on his bumper tomorrow but - Stay tuned for the next exciting episode ...............................
  5. FAILED on that one then (BBK Helped we took it in turns to distract Peter by moving his zimmer) Edit - I didnt say I was going somewhere did I
  6. He has it wrong Green is the best colour end off. And my wife has the best Zed in the UK (she made me say that)
  7. I have done my headers went stillen (Ceramic coated) from Mr Tarmac above Dunno how much they added as I did a fair few other things at the same time. They took 20 minutes to fit as the engine was already out (well hadn't gone in) thats the problem with them - it's easier to take the engine out than change them with it in
  8. Keyser

    baffled sump

    That looks very simlar to my APS sump except the oil drain is on the side not the bottom, even with my APS the alloy is not the greatest casting, I would think it was on a par with the one you linked to. I like mine helps with oil temps and has the extra holes for the SC oil return and a temp gauge pickup, as does the one in the link. Good luck with it if you go that way.
  9. That's just the disclamer in this sue anybody for anything world we now live in you gotta cover ya backside
  10. You had to ask didn't you! OK to be fair I have a collection - most are in the £20 - £60 range LVLP style I have a gravity feed gun for heavy primer But in the middle is my new toy a Devilbiss FLG-5 it is the bottom end or there line but you can pay £500 for a high end gun This job will be its first run but if it is even close to the one I tried it will be a pleasure to use Love air tools
  11. Nice pics mate Looks lovely please at least tell me it's really cold???
  12. That must be as I had my headlights on due to poor weather I assume??? Sorry didn't se ya but anyway
  13. Purely down to cost - The wing itself is fine its the inner bit that had gone which is really shell - of course it was supposed to be a small bit And you won't see the rear valanve when the body kit goes on. Thanks mate but less of the talented Cool cheers. What he said - Mig is easier ARC is to heavy (hot- it will blow through) for this work and TIG is harder and a lot more expensive, gas is an option but my father in law has the bottles.
  14. I have seen several discussion on guides and also lots of "How much to re-spray my bumper" and How to repair my damaged bumper threads. With this in mind I'm gonna try and write up this little job as a guide, (if the Mods and members in general think it's not worth keeping in guides please move I won't take offence ) I do appreciate that I have the unfair advantage of having a well equipped ZedShed (garage) and hobby level spray equipment, however you could do a lot of this yourself and the prep is labour intensive so if you get it even just ready for primer your onto a winner (it's not hard as my apprentice will demonstrate if he can you can) So the first thing we need is a damaged bumper BOB? Drive over that speed bump! Thanks! He's always happy to oblige Firstly strip all the bits off - reflectors number plate, grill, canards and anything else Bob has no badges but there are guides on how to remove them. Next access the damage remove loose and cracked shards of paint and fibreglass, it's better to replace than try and stick it back down with filler of a thin coat of resin (in my experience) Bob has 3 split in his and where they end right on the edge of the bumper you need to reinforce or it will flex and just crack away. So I ground out the end of the split to make it deep enough to repair properly Next clean and sand the inside face where the reinforcing and patching will take place I used a 180 grit sanding disk attachment on an angle grinder (Lightly!!!) it can be done by hand or with a drill attachment. sand off the loose and split material behind any splits or cracks Next step is the fibreglass, Available in kits from Motor factors or eBay or as individual packs of resin and hardener and the matting. Pre cut several patches from the matting and lay near to where they will be needed Then simply mix the resin and hardener as per the instructions on the tin TOP TIPS 1. Most people use to much hardener so it goes off to quick try not too 2. Mix in small quantities it will go off before you finish otherwise so make 2 or 3 small mixes 3. Use old plastic pots (margarine yoghurt etc) and bin them when finished along with a cheap brush 4. Wear latex gloves, save hours of scrubbing Paint the resin onto the area to be repaired then lay the matting on top (you can dip the matting into the mix but it can be hard to use as it will fall apart) paint generous amounts of resin on top. the aim is to fully impregnate the matting and remove ALL air from in or under the patch. Build up in layers until you are happy. Don't worry about neatness at this point it is easier to sand back to an edge than try and line up the matting perfectly work the corners to get the matting all the way in and remove the air Again building in layers if it needs to be built up more wait for it to dry and add more - this is a bridge on the end of a split Then sand back the excess with a course grade paper, I'm using 240 grit paper on the angle grinder but it's easy to go too far with that sort of cutting power! Then go over it with something a bit less aggressive I'm onto a 320 now Then to the filler, again plenty to choose from I use an "easy sand" option. Filler is an art (that I don't have) so the same as the fibreglass mix in small portions and build it up - I'm told lots of thin layers is better than one big thick layer anyway, Then sand it down, again working through the paper grades we started at a 120 to get the rough shape and very quickly down to a 400 Apprentice shot Now sand it again - a block is useful - I'll get a picture for the next post Second coat of filler and more sanding TOP TIP Run you finger over the repair - if you can feel a bump or a dip or a little dimple - you will see it in the paint!! You can feel the imperfections better than you can see them at this point! OK looking good? - SAND IT AGAIN! AND AGAIN OK Then it should now feel smooth and be looking something like this Now another decision what are you doing? A full re-spray or a blend? This one is a full re-spray so now the whole front bumper gets the 400 treatment, work the whole area and don't miss the awkward corners, when you think you have it just right - SAND IT AGAIN FYI we are dry sanding at the moment, we will switch to wet and dry for the final sand before paint. So that gets us to here - We will finish the prep and get ready for primer this week so the next stage will follow soon. Standard Disclaimer - 1. Don't follow this guide! 2. I am untrained, unqualified and have no idea what I'm talking about. 3. If you follow this guide and damage your car in anyway refer to disclaimer line 1 P.S - Sand it again
  15. Don't encourage him, he'll make them for Buster and all of his family Great idea Papa I'm on it
  16. Couldn't guarantee it as I never got around to the fitting part. It will likely need a bit of fabrication, depending on where you decide to fit it. Looks like a complete kit to me - they all need a bit of work as they are an add on - fairly easy to do depends where you fit it and what bumper you have, if you need more help or advice on this drop me a PM mate
  17. No thats the air suspension bottle with a NOS sticker and the bit on the dash is the control for the suspension.
  18. I was gonna go for the whole cake but Vanessa caught me In my defence they were bite size sarnies and BBK was keeping up with me and we won't mention Peter who took up residence in a chair within arm's reach of the food The only one being good was Mr G and that was only because there were so many cameras in the room he was worried Mrs G may find out
  19. Yes under the steering wheel is a small button. Is that the button with a red light?? Next to the tcs button? Been wondering what that button was for, will try it out later The red button with the light is most likley the fog light they add to imports
  20. They look great Green is always a good colour goes with black as well - not that I have thing for green - well maybe a little





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