tez162003

okay, could someone break all this down please. I am a proper technophobe and not overly clued up on tech, even though I'm only 25. So, you need the OBD dongle as per the ebay link earlier. Then attached this to the OBD port on the car. You then need to add the software to the laptop if you want to use a laptop for the monitoring. or Download an app to your smart phone. (what app is best that is available in the UK?) Then Bluetooth the 2 together. and hey presto, as for skins to match the 350z gauges, thats a whole different story and I wouldnt know where to begin lol

Boxster S isnt cheap coming in at around mid to high 40's, but the 2.9 Boxster is a little closer being IIRC £35-36k. Compare that to the 350z back in the day or today the 370z GT Pack model at around £32-33k, people would rather buy a poverty spec Porsche (granted still no doubt a good car) over a spec'd up "Nissan" Yes, TT's and Z4's were always seen as the safe bet, shame really, as in my opinion the only things better were the interior finish. Who in there right mind would want a golf engined 2 door half arsed 4 seat coupe. But all this is good in the fact it has made the 350z have a slight rare factor to them today. I myself have driven a Boxster S (granted an old model, 2007/8 i think) but never drove it in anger so I could not comment on how good they are. But i'm sure they are without a shadow of a doubt an awesome car.

i didnt crack the paint, just need to make sure its heated up so its soft while rolling, get an expert to do it.

The boxster in my opinion is the reason there isnt many 350z on the roads. People prefer a cheap Porsche over an expensive Nissan. Its all about the badge to 99% of people.

just stick with 20mm front and 25mm Rear. Will look stupid otherwise. And yes the rears are wider but wheel offsets and the size of the arches themselves have the say in whether to run staggered spacers or not. Too much "poke" with spacers looks wrong on the standard 18" rays with their chunky tyres, with the car still sat in the clouds. If you want to run them wide, you could do with lowering it a bit as well. Thats why 20 F 25 R with say a 25-30mm drop works well.

you just summed me up, te37 copy and stance! haha

Okay, I'll re-phrase it. lol Am I the only one on here that doesn't like the Rota GTR's and the LMGT's? I dont like the rota as the Concave is nice and all but generally only on the rear. the wheels look too different being one is flat faced and one has a large concave. And generally for some reason I dont like them on the 350z, but I cant really put my finger on why exactly? Nice wheel but just doesn't work for me. Thats why there are millions of designs out there, if we all liked the same thing we'd all have the same.

i too quite like the Insignia, mate of mine had a diesel one as his courtesy car. I was impressed tbh

Am I the only one on this site who doesn't like the GTR's?

Costco ones are great! I have had mine a couple of years now, perfectly fine. reaches well. well built and great price. They do tend to go for periods where they change their stock from the lightweight alloy one to the monster 3ton steel one. (dont get this) far to heavy for lugging around. If you dont have a costco card, im sure someone could help out and get you one, I have a card and I often go to both the Watford and Milton Keynes Costco if thats any help to you?

Finally got the 350 into the body shop. Fixing a few little things which needed doing. Basically to fit -et2 10.5x19s involve rolling the arch edges completely over. While doing this the one spot of rust decided it wanted to give, and split the metal. So that meant no pressure could be applied there for worry of tearing the metal onto the front of the arch. So this along with a slightly un perfect repair on the same rear arch by the previous owner, I decided to get it to the body shop. Also where the arches were rolled rather servilely its also slightly pull the arch out, so now it flares out from the bumper, thats okay but i want it to look proper, not just done to fit the wheels like most people do. So the list of things on the agenda are: - Repair previous repair (where the arch didnt line up to the rear bumper) - Repair the "wobble" in the arch where the metal slightly split - Repair a small bit of rust on the other rear arch - Pull the last bit of each rear arch out to keep the arch curve straight - Pull the edges of the rear bumper out to match the arches - Flush out the aerial - Re-paint drivers arch - Re-paint passengers arch - Re-paint rear bumper - Re-paint front bumper Not much has happened yet, but should see it back by Monday at the latest. Couple of quick phone pics. Also ordered LED fog bulb (to get rid of the red in the lens), silver indicator bulbs all round, LED, number plate and side light bulbs.

ordered are: side lights (led bright white) 501 side repeaters (silver) 501 front indicators (silver) WY21W T20 Wedge rear indicators (silver) WY21W T20 Wedge number plate lights (led bright white) 501 rear fog (led red) 7440 7443 T20

Oh dear. I think I'm more confused than i was before lol I want to change. - Front Indicator Bulbs (T20/W21W?) - Rear Indicator Bulbs (T20/ W21W?) - Side Repeater Bulbs (501?) - Number Plate lights (501?) - Side Light Bulbs (501?) - Rear Fog bulb to clear/ LED red bulb (???) I have been looking at Autobulbsdirect and what they seem to think is in the 350z and I swear half of them are wrong? A 382 as the rear fog? looking at a picture of the bulb from a nissan fog, its definatly not a 382.

My car is currently at the bodyshop having some work done, flushing out of the aerial, pulling the rear bumper out a bit to match slightly flared arches, little dab of rust etc etc So while the bumpers are off, i want to change all the bulbs to silver, front side and rears. and also remove the red out the rear fog and get a red flashing clear bulb? Can anyone tell me for definite which bulbs I need? I read while searching the rears and front are the same and are T20, but ebay search shows T20 on several types of bulb? Any help? I need to order them asap, and get them before the bumper goes back on. Thanks

I love my "shed" little 1.2 Corsa B, got it at 50k for £500 im currently on 116500 and only owes me £650. Head gasket did go, so fixed it myself in the dark with one of my light rigs for my detailing. Fitted new belts, filters, gaskets, water pump, tensioners, valve stem seals. did all that for under £100 inc head skimming, love the price of parts for this. Wish Nissan parts were so cheap lol

You lot must be smoking crack, these wheels are gorgeous. and they do indeed suit the 350, the above picture proves that. But agreed with one comment above, you need 19s really. these wheels need that stretch look and 18s you will still have to use chunky tyres.

225/35/19 on a 9.5J

but DAB aerials wont work on OEM Stereo's will they?

not got a clue where I'm putting mine yet, no rush being I dont use the radio, probably just get a internal one out a tt or something or just buy a cheap ebay jobbie

Paid

Mines being got rid of as of this Thursday when I drive it into the bodyshop

lets just hope you didnt pay GT money for it then.

Internal are hardly the best, they have less surface area engagement than the external types. Steel are fine yes, thats why my work changed the Small Diameter Alloy nuts to external drive and kept SD Steel nuts as internal. The best nuts for peace of mind of rounding off etc are supposedly the new style 10/11 reg merc bolts

like i said, avoid internal drive nuts. external only for me now, after I had about 9 of 16 alloy ones round off and needed a lot of hole saw bits to drill it out.

I had my insurance due last week, they asked what alarm I had, I said whatever the factory fitted. They checked and said Thatcham 1 Alarm & Immobiliser.