scubapics

For an oil change I use ramps and a scaffolding plank or similar sawn in half and used as a long ramp to the ramps to change the incline. If you are going to use axle stands, do not jack up one side then the other. It's far too dangerous as the car tilts around one of the stands plus at one point it will be perched on just one wheel as you jack the other side up. Ramps are safer if you are just raising one end up. Jim

I think I'll get a new set of these considering they now come with fittings already attached so no need to cut/saw/dremil the old ones off.

The trick is not to drive so close to the car in front that is throwing out stones at you.

That's got to be the filthiest engine bay I have ever seen on a Z!

Steps 13 to 17 in this guide: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/60143-door-mirror-disassembly/

Glad it is all sorted. In future, just tell them that she and her boyfriend like to practice naturism at home! Ok, some might find that attractive but I suspect most agents will never arrive unannounced with potential clients.

Definitely a short somewhere. I had this in a jeep. A loom had caught on a heat shield and rubbed through a live wire. It would only blow a fuse when it made good contact with the heat shield. Knowing the fuse that keeps blowing and if you have a wiring diagram you should be able to check all the wires coming from that fuse to find the short.

Do it yourself. It isn't hard to do and if you get stuck there is plenty of help at hand on here to sort you out. Just make sure you have a torque wrench to do the plugs up properly and it is also useful to have a magnetic plug socket and the plugs are quite deep into the engine. The quotes from Nissan are crazy but I wonder if they are quoting you individual prices. E.g. £170 to do just the coolant. But if done with the plugs and oil then it should be a case of letting it drain whilst doing something else etc. As soon as Nissan told me how much a spark plug change was and that it was extra to the P3 service I had a good laugh and told them I'd do it myself.

Looks like an old post of mine. I can't imagine the Tom Tom taking 3 amps. I'd still go for soldering and heatshrink. Better job all round and less resistance compared to crimping. But the crimps will do the job, just bulkier. Jim

No one actually stopped to help! Sheesh.

And if you do buy some from eBay, get a coat of lacquer on them. My satin ones corroded - yes corrosion. I know have a set that have been lacquered so hopefully will be more resilient to the environment.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned suspension bushes yet. How old and worn are yours? Might be worth getting them replaced upgraded and you'll get the benefit in the long term as well.

Hmm. Butter on my balls. I'm not sure I'd like that. Even if it was Megan Fox applying it. To the OP. You need to remember that every Nissan garage is a franchise. They're not owned by Nissan or run by them. Just take your money elsewhere. Perhaps it wasn't a good idea telling them that you were going to compare against other cars. If you'd just kept the focus on the car in the forecourt they'd probably have let you test drive without any questions. Besides, you can probably get better examples and cheaper too from independents. Here's an example although not in your area: http://www.lodgemotor.co.uk/nissan-370z-v6-gt-coupe-6-speed-sat-nav-in-berkshire-for-sale-2101813 Jim

No they're not buttering you up. I'm considering getting mine redone and this time keeping them sealed and staying clear of the bilberry!

yeah i read that about the powdercoat on their website, i assume you have powdercoating? does dirt cling to them? Yes I have powder coating and they were shiny like yours when new but now dull. I was using bilberry wheel cleaner. If you seal them with a wheel wax or zaino z2 pro, they dirt will wash off them easily.

Looking good. Two tips: 1. Make sure there is no powder coating on the mating face with the hub or you may well find your discs warp. 2. Don't use any form of wheel cleaner other than normal shampoo or it will dull the finish.

I wouldn't put them there. The plate that it is on is soft but the structure under it is probably ok. You will buckle the plate. Put them on the sill jacking point where they are supposed to be and pack the sill out with wood up to the level of the vertical strip so that the weight is taken by the sill and not the vertical strip.

Or once you have dealt with the swirl marks, use a paint sealer polish such as Zaino Z2 Pro instead of wax. It can give between 3 and 6 months protection.

Hmm. I have mixed experiences with the RAC. I called them out once. My Jeep died. Guy took a look with the diagnostic computer. Couldn't find a fault. Vehicle would not turn over. Called a flatbed out to take me home. Hours waited. Got home, turn out to be a blown fuse. You'd think that would be one of the first things to check. Come renewal time they wanted to remove my no claim discount. I told them to bugger orf as the guy should have done his job properly and do at the very least basic checks! Jim

I knew it would come in handy sometime...

At the very least there is a chance that they will pay her a visit t her home and ask some pressing questions. Nothing will come of it but it might just make her think twice in future.

I am a firm believer that engineers and designers don't just add things for the sake of it. I'm sure if car manufacturers believed it wasn't necessary they would prefer to make a cost saving to increase profits where ever they can. This link gives a reasonable explanation for why it is present. I'm not suggesting that it is the reason but from a fair google search it appears to be a common train of thought. http://junkee-garage.blogspot.co.uk/2010/03/exhaust-grounding-kit.html I would put one back on. Explain the boot counter weight then... And the rear window wiper... And the cigarette lighter behind the passengers.. I'm sure theres more. The 350z isn't the only vehicle with a counter weight in the boot/trunk. So there is a reason for it. Some say it's a vibration dampener, others think it's as the name suggests a counter weight. Maybe to balance the weight of the boot against the gas struts. Rear window wiper is easy. Some people like to see through a clear rear window. The accessory socket behind the seats is just like the ones in the boot of SUVs and people carriers. It's for plugging accessories in like refrigerated cool boxes. As I said before... I'm not saying these are the reasons but there will be a genuine reason for parts that some people might not realise. Imagine how much money manufacturers would save over the hundred of thousands or millions of cars produced by not fitting these unnecessary parts but still charge you the same price?

+1

I am a firm believer that engineers and designers don't just add things for the sake of it. I'm sure if car manufacturers believed it wasn't necessary they would prefer to make a cost saving to increase profits where ever they can. This link gives a reasonable explanation for why it is present. I'm not suggesting that it is the reason but from a fair google search it appears to be a common train of thought. http://junkee-garage.blogspot.co.uk/2010/03/exhaust-grounding-kit.html I would put one back on.

Have you checked your brake fluid level? And if you find it low, you might find that you have a leak as well.