scubapics

I can get some after photos perhaps on the weekend. Maybe one before and after shots of the roof as I haven't done that yet.

Scratches won't completely go as they are much deeper. You can improve them / make them less visible but you need to remove a lot of paint to get rid of them. If you are feeling up to it, wet sand the scratches out with 3000 grit wet and dry. Then polish out with a lighter polish.

Black Z, dodo juice rotary polisher, Megs 105, Megs soft buff cutting pad, soft buff buffing pad = swirl free bliss I've tried ultimate compound and DA before and it takes forever and still didn't give the best results. Rotary, cutting pad and M105 work the polish until clear and then switch to buffing pad to work the rest of the polish and jobs a goodun. Make sure the pads are primed with M105 first. No photos of before / after. You'll just have to take my word for it.

It all depends on the model and the photographer I guess. Most models I have seen in car mags are skank. If you are into that then I guess you would drool all over it. A good car doesn't need a model...

It would appear that there is no flasher relay in the Z. The 350z at least, The indicators are controlled by the BCM (body control module). So resistors are the only way but you run the risk of not knowing about a failed LED bulb and mixing it up with the law or worst having an accident. The lifespan of an LED bulb should be way longer than a normal bulb and may never fail for the lifetime of the vehicle though. But don't take my word on it - check for yourself.

The reason I ask is that it is not about the wattage rating of the resistor but the resistance value itself that is important to make it work. The wattage rating is important so that the resistor can handle the power flowing through it which is a factor of the current flowing through it and the voltage dropped across it. This is all dependent on the resistor value and the voltage drop across the LED. You could put a 500W resistor in there and it would work providing the resistance value is correct. The purpose of increasing the resistance is to trick the circuit into believing that the right amount of current is flowing through it. With two bulbs wired in parallel there is more current flowing than if there was just one. When one bulb blows, less current flows and is detected by the circuit causing the on off cycle to be quicker. This is what alerts you to a failed bulb. LEDs draw much less current than bulbs which is why the circuit is flashing as though a bulb is missing. So you need to make the circuit draw more current and this is achieved by putting a resistor in parallel with each LED such that the resistor draws almost as much current as a normal bulb with the LED drawing the rest. In practice it probably is nor possible to get it just right. So the original bulb is 21W. Using James Watts power law of electrickery, W = I x V (Ivy Watts is how I remember it). The current flow I = 12 / 21 = 1.75 amps. The equivalent resistance to use would be (using ohms law V = I x R) R = 12 / 1.75 = 6.9 ohms. The power rating of the resistor would need to be 21W or higher as the same current is flowing as that of the bulb and the voltage across it is also the same. So you need a 6.9 ohm 21 Watt power resistor. Maplins only do power resistors up to 10W - oops! Not to worry. If you have two 10W resistors of half the resistance in series then the power in each is halved so 10W would do. So you need two 3.9R 10 Watt power resistors from maplins. 3.9 is the closest. Solder one end to each other and then the free ends across the wires of the LED. Repeat for each LED. I would also use some heat shrink tubing over the resistors and all connections to properly insulate. If you use lower resistance you will draw more current and risk blowing the circuitry but that's not to say it may not work. You will also draw more current than the wiring might be able to handle which could potentially cause a fire - but again unlikely as the cables are normally quite thick and as long as you are not blowing fuses it should be just fine. The bulbs are never an exact Wattage anyway so there will be a tolerance. Hope that helps. You may also be able to buy a replacement relay that switches at the correct rate for the lower current draw meaning no soldering etc needed. The disadvantage of using resistors is the if the LED fails, the circuit will not flash faster and you will not be alerted to the failed indicator.

What is the resistance of the resistor?

And....

Do you know what the current draw of the new LED bulbs is?

What was the wattage of the original bulbs?

Use a razor blade or a spare stanley blade.

Do it yourself. Simples.

When you decide to sell your Z, I wouldn't waste your time advertising on this forum...

The electrodes on the plugs will erode over time. You wouldn't want a chunk of an electrode grinding away at your piston bores. Newer improved materials have meant longer periods between replacing them but haven't yet removed the need altogether. The latest technology in spark plugs being researched is laser plugs.

I doubt that the two are related. The reversing sensors are normally powered from the reversing light circuit and the air bag fault is normally due to the wiring under the seat. They should be unrelated circuits and quite a distance apart from each other.

Taken out of context this would be discrimination.

Welcome. Close to me. I'm going to have to upgrade to a 370 at this rate

I agree with this. You could temporarily use something like scaffolding planks to drive on. They would also double up to be used to raise the front end of the car in order to get a trolley jack under - except of course you have a gravel drive which isn't compatible with jacks.

I'm normally quoted 250 per panel + vat.

Sheesh! I wonder how that business model will workout for them.

The following post will show you how to strip the mirror assembly but I think you will need a replacement housing with motor. http://www.350z-uk.c...or-disassembly/

They're going to make you feel likea valued customer by giving its full valet only leaving te paint work all scratched and swirled and minus your hugely expensive wax coat or sealant tat you spent hours applying...

No barns on the farm? Sounds the sort of workshop I'd like to have!

Mine won't open at all no matter how many times you press the button unless I put my bags down and pull whilst pressing the button. The spring bumpers just are long enough to push the boot past the catch. I'll take the weight out again in the weekend and see if that h eps with the new struts and spring bumpers. Plus I will lube the hinges with Wd40 then grease.

Or you could put a coat of Gtechniq C2 or Zaino Z2 on twice a year and leave it at that.