matth76

You've got very nice high power - are you running a supercharger or turbo? If so do you mind me asking which company you used to fit and tune it all and how much it all was? I've heard of a company up north who fit the roots type supercharger for just under £5k all in but you need to modify the bonnet to accomodate the charger which sits on top of the block. They were featured in evo magazine.

My insurance went down too when I put my gf on it. I'm 32, 10yrs no claims, no points or claims and paying exactly £400 a year with Admiral. Some very silly quotes out there. Tesco quoted me over £1000 ! My insurance never went down when I hit 25, if anything only a couple of quid. In fact I remember ringing them up saying why it hadn't gone right down and they said it didn't make much difference. Same with all other companies I tried at the time. Best bet is to get a protected no claims and when you hit 30 you are paying a fair bit less.

Very good bhp but seems like your torque is about 20lbs/ft down. Did the garage explain what might account for it? Sounds like a remap/new ecu is required to get the most out of your mods. I'd be interested to know what places offer a re-chip or piggyback. My old vr6 couldn't be remapped out of the box. Required a piggyback/rechip which cost in the region of £350 but released a lot of power after getting the fuelling and timing spot on.

I'd be interested to know where the 102 ron fuel is too.

Sounds like poor tyres or camber adjustment as mentioned. The standard Bridgestones are what you need at the very least which are very good in the dry and "ok" in the wet and will not result in what you are having. Cheaper low quality tyres will have much poorer grip. However sounds more like the camber or alignment is out.

I've always used Tesco 99 and it is brilliant stuff. Car feels much perkier than when I have used other brands. And their stuff comes from a good supplier (not sure who) but they just reduce their profit margin so they can offer it to us as low prices. I've had it recommend to me by tuners too if you can get it. Luckily I have two large stores (near Brighton and Worthing) that do it. It's cheaper than most normal unleaded petrol at other places too. Didn't realise Asda or Sainsburys did 98 or 99 ron too. My locals only do 95.

Managed to turn PTY off (by holding the button for a second or two) and since then it seems to have been ok - touch wood. Thanks.

Every single day. The salesman never phones me back. I did manage to speak to him once this week and the previous week, between then it has me passing messages to his colleagues to phone me back but I never get a response. Thanks for the tel number CS.

Not on my car - so far it has been serviced by a main dealer (west way manchester) P1, P2, P1 and just had P2 couple of weeks ago before I bought it from them. It has done just under 35k miles. When does the P3 get done? I'm assuming it must be over 40k miles or certain age? Hottrain - 24.5k mileage is very low for any car. Depends on what you are used to. I've personally had 10 year old cars before which run over 100k miles and run smoother more reliabably than friend's brand new cars. My car was a golf vr6 and very good quality. Same should go for the 350. It will keep going and going as long as it is fully serviced and maintained. New2350 - I'd be wary of anyone who says they've "serviced it themselves". To me that means not full service history and therefore not looked after - and a sports car like the 350 definitely needs a full service history. Of course they may not be lying and have done it themselves but you can't trust them on this as anyone could say this. Personally I'd walk away.

Since buying my car 2 and a half weeks ago from a Nissan main dealer I am still waiting to hear when I will get my spare key which I have already paid for. Is this normal to wait so long by a main dealer for a key?? At this rate is going to be over 3 weeks before I get my key. I then I have to drive two hours down the road to get it coded to my car at one of their other franchised dealers which is closest to me (when I have a nissan main dealer, although not of the same franchise, just two mins down my road). Does anyone have a number of head office so I can find out myself where my spare key is? Thanks for any help.

Just bought my car with 35k miles and the main dealer (west way in manchester) did a full service and MOT. They did a P2 service. When should a P3 service be done?

I'd also like to know who the garage was so I can avoid them. I'd also be interested in any Z specialists around the Sussex area.

I've got pretty noticable "orange peel" around my rear number plate, not anywhere else, just on the indented area surrounding the number plate. Assumed this was normal in this part of the car although it's hardly noticable. How did you get on with getting the paint resprayed?

Don't know if it's me or the angle and light but occasionally my petrol cap on my azure 350 looks very very slightly lighter than the surrounding metal. I'm not overly bothered by it but either it has had a respray (for some reason just on the petrol cap, or the panel around the petrol cap) or the light makes it looks different sometimes as it is right on the curve of the wheel arch.

Thanks. Do you apply the sealant then the wax last, or apply sealant last?

Thanks guys. How many minutes/hours approx does it take to take the bumper off and replace?

Yes I have headlight washers

My front side orange reflectors (the two on the front of the car - one underneath each headlight) are a bit scratched and I want to replace them. Is this pretty easy to do or is it a bumper off job or can you do it by jacking up the car and reaching from behind the bumper? Also how much are they each? Thanks for any info.

Was the HP quoted at the wheels or flywheel? What was your power at the wheels as that is what the dyno will read accurately (the garage should have given you this reading too)? It is when the garage/tuner uses formulae in their attempt to "calculate" the power at the fly (by looking at transmission losses etc) which is why you will get very different results at different dyno garages. Power at the fly can only be done accurately with the engine out. The dyno actually reads the wheel horse power accurately. Of course your hp will also vary depending on the conditions by as much as plus/minus 5-10hp. Some rolling roads/dynos can also vary - some give better readings than others (which doesn't help). Factory quoted figures are never to be relied upon and will always vary from each individual car to another. It's better to compare power at the wheels to other 350z owners here to get a good "average" comparisson. If the garage was more of a tuner they should have been able to analyse your fuelling and timing too as part of your rolling road session. That will normally show you if your fuelling and timing is slightly out or there is something wrong. Could be that your cam sensor is not working properly as that can result in a good 10 bhp loss. Maybe get it on a fault sensor at a good garage (they should do this for free if they are good) and see if there are any faults showing. Your aftermarket ecu could have reset your fuelling and timing to a different level based on another country's grade of fuel. This would be my first port of call to get looked at, not least to ensure you aren't getting any damaging pinking.

Cheers guys. Will give that a go.

Just noticed the passenger electric window won't go down. I've had a good fiddle with the buttons but it doesn't seem to go down. I know you can prevent the door opening using the "dead locks" - just wondered if there was a similar kind of way to prevent the passenger window going down too using the dead lock buttons? It was working fine the other day but my gf had a good fiddle with the buttons and now it wont go down. Thanks for any help.

Thanks. Think I've sorted it. Held down the PTY button and it went out in the top right corner of the display. So far touch wood it's been fine since then. Does anyone know what the PTY stands for?

Hi Has anyone had a Garmin portable sat nav (one of the 700 series) integrated into the cubby hole? Just been to a local stereo specialist to find out which portable sat nav might be able to fit into the cubby hole and I really like the look of the Garmin and the 700 series seems to have the right dimensions to be fully integrated. Has anyone got any pics of what it looks like fitted in your cubby hole? Thanks for any info.

Hi I'm aware of the cd skipping issue with the Bose which thankfully I have only had once when very cold and has not come back. One annoying issue I do have is I could be playing a CD or listening to any radio channel and it will suddenly change channel and go to radio 2 or similar saying "News" on the display - I swap back to the original station or CD and a few seconds later it will revert back to that news channel. I have read the handbook and can see all about "PTY" but not sure what this is, if this is what the problem is, nor how to disable it, if this is the function causing the news interruptions. Please can anyone help tell me what button I need to press or function I need to disable the "news" flashes all the time Driving me a bit mad. Thanks for any help. Cheers

You need to ideally keep to the 45 profile on 18's otherwise you will reduce your rolling radius going to a 40 profile because you are reducing your overall wheel diameter. The width of the tyre doesn't affect the rolling radius. Reducing your rolling radius will put your speedo out, although not by much (bit of a risk going through speed cameras). The only way to reduce your profile (ie move down to a 40 or below) and keep the same rolling radius is to move up to a 19" diameter wheel. If you move to a wider tyre on stock alloys you may get slightly worse handling going round corners and less feedback from the steering depending on how wide you go. Moving up to 255 (ie one cm wider than stock) may not make much difference though. I'm sure someone on here said they had moved up to 265 width with no adverse effects, but wouldn't advise going any wider than that really and won't make any real difference to grip. Best bet is instead to move to a different tyre as recommended above to get more grip - Michelins Pilot Sports are supposed to be very good, so are the Bridgestone RE050A Pole Positions. The stock RE040 tyres are very good in the dry but take a while to warm up in the cold.