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Remote central locking fob issues

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All,

 

I noticed this first a couple of weeks ago, walking to my car in the morning, normally it would unlock as soon as I pressed the button stepping out of my front door, but it took until I'd walked around the car to the drivers door for the key fob to wake up and unlock the car, didn't think too much of it...

 

As time went past it got steadily worse, but only ever in the morning - just after I've pulled the keys off the rack. I put this down to the battery running a little low and the keys getting cold(er) next to the front door, made a mental note to myself to buy a battery at the next opportunity. (Of course I didn't get round to it, always forget the problem when it's not happening!)

 

Anyway, I went to the gym last night, walked out and the fob had died a death, stood there for about 5 minutes, warming the key between my hands, in my pocket, blah blah blah, absolutely nothing. So I unlock the door using the physical key, open the door, and of course the alarm starts going off. Took me a while to work out it would stop when I started the ignition, whoops. Got to Morrisons, they had the right battery, hooray!

 

It didn't work. The car's still not responding to my frantic button stabbing. I drove the car home (lots of questioning looks from others in the car park when the alarm started going off) then had a good read on here, found the reprogramming thread and gave that a go. No worky. Failed at the first stage (key in ignition, on to lock 6 times)

 

So in summary:

 

MY2004 UKDM

Only one key (my fault for not asking when buying)

Key fob battery replaced (no improvement)

Dashboard battery display was reading anywhere between 14-15V this morning, so car battery is no different to usual.

Reprogramming table followed, tried turning the key from Lock to on 6 times and DID NOT get the double sidelight flash.

 

Anyone know where I'm going wrong and how do I fix it? Would prefer not having to go to a stealership to get it sorted.

 

Cheers!

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i dont im afraid but i only had one key with mine, mine was a little unresponsive but seems ok when i was working the key manualy to lock unlock, but now it seems to be working fine, so keen to see any other input on here

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I will be keeping an eye on this one - I have had exactly the same thing happen last night and had planned to just swap the batteries in the fobs and reprogramme

 

It must be related to the cold weather - I did wonder if there was condensation over a sensor that had frozen or similar upsetting the signal as once I had taken the car for a drive, got the temp up and cleared all the windows etc. the central locking was fine (including from inside the house - which is ~20-30 Ft away)

Edited by 350Chris

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I will be keeping an eye on this one - I have had exactly the same thing happen last night and had planned to just swap the batteries in the fobs and reprogramme

 

It must be related to the cold weather - I did wonder if there was condensation over a sensor that had frozen or similar upsetting the signal as once I had taken the car for a drive, got the temp up and cleared all the windows etc. the central locking was fine (including from inside the house - which is ~20-30 Ft away)

 

Weird one that, I've been trying before and after driving the car ever since last night and it's still playing silly buggers.

 

I reckon by this point the fob has lost it's programme though, it's not been responding, no matter how long I stand next to the car pulling a stupid face, pressing buttons, swearing or promising the car a nice shampoo and wax. Piece of cack. It's normally so well behaved...

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Having spent out quite a bit on mine this year - I feel your pain. This feels like it's final finer to me for 2014!! :lol:

 

If you have got halfway through the programming sequence, you will have effectively 'unlearnt' the existing fobs.

 

Having done some reading this morning, there appears to be two methods for teaching the codes;

 

This one...turning the key on and off 6 times at the start

http://www.350z-uk.c...te-not-working/

 

 

And this one....taking the key in and out at the start

http://my350z.com/fo...rogramming.html

 

I haven't tried them yet - but having read as much as I can find on it this morning, it is recognised that it takes a couple of goes (much like the pedal dance) to get it right. There was also someone that commented that when starting the sequence with the 6x on/off that you had to do it reasonably quickly and ensure that you got to the right points of the ignition barrel.

 

Not saying that you aren't doing it properly - but I would give it a couple more goes before you consider opening the car with a brick for the rest of it's life ;)

 

If all else fails, you will need to look up a Nissan specialist that has Consult - they will be able to not only recode but also to diagnose if the fob is knackered

 

Keep us posted!

Edited by 350Chris

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Yeah I gave both methods a good few attempts last night but neither worked (the in and out one is USDM only AFAIK) might well be that I'm not getting the timing right, but then I'm definitely turning it 6 times and it's definitely less than 10 seconds.

 

Am I supposed to wait until certain dash lights illuminate and then go out or what?

 

I called the dealership this morning a 'technician' was supposed to call me back, not heard anything after a couple of hours so now calling some different auto-locksmiths, will feedback, fingers crossed I can get this sorted soon.

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Some of the threads that I have read said that the dash lights didn't flash but the exterior indicators did - so make sure that you can see a reflection or have someone to watch them for you.

 

Where abouts are you in the UK? I have just spoken to Kaizer Motorsport who can do it - but that may not help if you are on the Isle of Man!

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Couldn't get through on the phone so sent an email.

 

Bailey's Canterbury want £51 for checking the key and having a go at re-programming it, which isn't bad, not overly keen on the £188 for a new key if it doesn't work though... might just have to suck it up if no-one else pulls through.

 

For the record, very few Auto-locksmiths seem interested or able to work on a 350Z, why didn't I stick with 90's Japanese Hatchbacks?! :lol:

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Where abouts are you in the UK? I have just spoken to Kaizer Motorsport who can do it - but that may not help if you are on the Isle of Man!

 

+1

If you are in Canturbury then Sly at Kaizer will sort you out. Try sending a text as he may possibly be having time off atm. ;)

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Got it sorted last night.

 

What it doesn't say on the UK re-programming flow chart is that you need to have the doors locked before you start the 'on - lock' sequence, tried it when I got home as a last resort and it worked first time, all now back as it should be.

 

Another one I owe to the fountain of knowledge that is 350z-uk!

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Got it sorted last night.

 

What it doesn't say on the UK re-programming flow chart is that you need to have the doors locked before you start the 'on - lock' sequence, tried it when I got home as a last resort and it worked first time, all now back as it should be.

 

Another one I owe to the fountain of knowledge that is 350z-uk!

 

Thanks for the update, useful info :thumbs:

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Fingers crossed for my go at the weekend then....did you just do new batteries and a recode?

 

Yep, new battery then once you've memorised the sequence (or have laptop/ipad with sequence in front of you) it takes about 20 seconds all in to do if you've got it right.

 

Definitely not worth £50 from a dealership!

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My plan is to unlock with the fob, so that the car sees a clear, authorised signal and then swap the battery and do the two fobs at the same time. Fingers crossed :lol:

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Hi, 
I bought a Nissan 350z and it came with 2 keys. Once with the remote central locking and the other is just a plain valet key. The central locking works from inside the car but not from the remote. Following the forums, I have tried to reprogram the key and get it to work with the car. I can successfully get the car into programming mode by toggling the key from the lock to the on position 6 times, after which the indicators flash twice. After that I hold the unlock button and press the lock button 3 times after which I let go of the unlock button on the key. According to the procedure, the indicators should flash once, showing that the key has been programmed. In my case nothing happens!. When i turn the key to the on position the indicators flash twice again showing that it has exited programming mode. Still, the key doesn't unlock remotely! Its driving me insane. Any ideas? Kind Regards, Ibrahim.

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1 hour ago, fijifixit said:

Hi, 
I bought a Nissan 350z and it came with 2 keys. Once with the remote central locking and the other is just a plain valet key. The central locking works

from inside the car but not from the remote. Following the forums, I have tried to reprogram the key and get it to work with the car. I can successfully get the car into programming mode by toggling the key from the lock to the on position 6 times, after which the indicators flash twice. After that I hold the unlock button and press the lock button 3 times after which I let go of the unlock button on the key. According to the procedure, the indicators should flash once, showing that the key has been programmed. In my case nothing happens!. When i turn the key to the on position the indicators flash twice again showing that it has exited programming mode. Still, the key doesn't unlock remotely! Its driving me insane. Any ideas? Kind Regards, Ibrahim.

Holy thread revival.......4 year old :wacko:

 

Silly question but have you checked the battery in your fob? Get new battery in and repeat the procedure.

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1 hour ago, veeg33 said:

Holy thread revival.......4 year old :wacko:

 

Silly question but have you checked the battery in your fob? Get new battery in and repeat the procedure.

Haha, i've been scouring the net going through every webpage trying to find a fix!. 

 

I tested the battery inside with a multimeter and it was reading 3v which I believe is correct. I bought a new CR2016 battery from BP and it still doesn't work.

 

Polarity is correct so Im very confused :(

 

I have tried all the various methods, door locked, unlocked, key out, door open etc. Nothing seems to work.

 

Could it be the actual key that is dead? The current one I have is:

SIEMENS VDO

5WK4 876/818

433MHz

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56 minutes ago, fijifixit said:

Haha, i've been scouring the net going through every webpage trying to find a fix!. 

 

I tested the battery inside with a multimeter and it was reading 3v which I believe is correct. I bought a new CR2016 battery from BP and it still doesn't work.

 

Polarity is correct so Im very confused :(

 

I have tried all the various methods, door locked, unlocked, key out, door open etc. Nothing seems to work.

 

Could it be the actual key that is dead? The current one I have is:

SIEMENS VDO

5WK4 876/818

433MHz

Sounds like you may have a dead fob. You can buy a 2nd hand one from Ebay or check with @ZMANALEX if he has a 2nd hand fob available. Just transfer the key blade and a black rectangular block (the immobiliser) into the new fob than reprogram again. Before you do that, might be worth to check the circuit board for any battery leak that caused short circuit.

Edited by veeg33

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3 minutes ago, veeg33 said:

Sounds like you may have a dead fob. You can buy a 2nd hand one from Ebay or check with @ZMANALEX if he has a 2nd hand fob available. Just transfer the key blade and a black rectangular block (the immobiliser) into the new fob than reprogram again. Before you do that, might be worth to check the circuit board for any battery leak that caused short circuit.

I literally just ordered a second hand fob off eBay. I hope it works, if not, ill contact @ZMANALEX :)

 

I checked all the circuitry, I cant see any cracked solder, rust or blown capacitors.

 

I hope this new fob works whenever it arrives. I feel really uneasy locking and unlocking manually. Seems like the door handles are made from cheese! :( 

 

Cheers for the advice dude

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There are many different fobs out there, even with the same frequency and details on the outside casing. Some have transponder as part of the PCB, others have it separate. Best bet is to get internal photos of yours and ask for the same for the key you’re buying to replace it. I bought the wrong one but second time lucky, and I now have my original key plus a flip key that I’ve put together and had coded. :) 

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15 hours ago, EzeePzee said:

There are many different fobs out there, even with the same frequency and details on the outside casing. Some have transponder as part of the PCB, others have it separate. Best bet is to get internal photos of yours and ask for the same for the key you’re buying to replace it. I bought the wrong one but second time lucky, and I now have my original key plus a flip key that I’ve put together and had coded. :) 

Ahh, I didn't know about that! I just looked at the key I purchased and I cannot see the little black rectangular thing. Im presuming that's the transponder? My key has it inside.

 

Does that mean the key off eBay wont work? I cant seem to find any other keys. Anyone know where I can get one?

 

Cheers.

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46 minutes ago, fijifixit said:

Ahh, I didn't know about that! I just looked at the key I purchased and I cannot see the little black rectangular thing. Im presuming that's the transponder? My key has it inside.

 

Does that mean the key off eBay wont work? I cant seem to find any other keys. Anyone know where I can get one?

 

Cheers.

Just transfer the one from your original key and put in the one you purchased. Make sure you don't loose it. That's the one that will cost you the most if you loose it as your car won't start or will not drive far (not sure what will happen if the car didn't receive a signal from the transponder to mobilise the car).

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Just now, veeg33 said:

Just transfer the one from your original key and put in the one you purchased. Make sure you don't loose it. That's the one that will cost you the most if you loose it as your car won't start or will not drive far (not sure what will happen if the car didn't receive a signal from the transponder to mobilise the car).

Would it work if I transferred the transponder over though if the replacement key has a transponder on the PCB? I would imagine they'd interfere no?

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