natehd9

Sorry all, been away from the computer for a while! I'm not sure what black it is, wasn't aware that there are more than one kind! It's a pre-facelift 54 plate GT model if that's any use? I'm located near Canterbury, in Kent. I'll PM zmanalex Cheers all!

Had a minor run in with a trailer at my parents earlier in the week, so on the look out for a black rear bumper, looking at historic sales it would appear a whole second hand bumper on here is cheaper than calling out a dent and scrape company... Madness! Cheers, Nathan

So I've just let my brother take the Z for a spin, we got to the petrol station where I spent a few seconds trying to explain where the petrol filler cap button was, in his rage of button stabbing he's managed to push the traction control button through. Do I now need to completely dismantle the dash or is there a separate panel that I can split off that consists of the TC button and the headlight washer button? I don't normally ( ) take TC off, but it has now left a big ugly hole in the dash, quite annoying really... I've had a quick search, but nothing is really coming up. Thanks in advance.

Yep, new battery then once you've memorised the sequence (or have laptop/ipad with sequence in front of you) it takes about 20 seconds all in to do if you've got it right. Definitely not worth £50 from a dealership!

Got it sorted last night. What it doesn't say on the UK re-programming flow chart is that you need to have the doors locked before you start the 'on - lock' sequence, tried it when I got home as a last resort and it worked first time, all now back as it should be. Another one I owe to the fountain of knowledge that is 350z-uk!

Couldn't get through on the phone so sent an email. Bailey's Canterbury want £51 for checking the key and having a go at re-programming it, which isn't bad, not overly keen on the £188 for a new key if it doesn't work though... might just have to suck it up if no-one else pulls through. For the record, very few Auto-locksmiths seem interested or able to work on a 350Z, why didn't I stick with 90's Japanese Hatchbacks?!

I'm in Canterbury so they aren't a million miles away, might give them a call now and see what they say...

Yeah I gave both methods a good few attempts last night but neither worked (the in and out one is USDM only AFAIK) might well be that I'm not getting the timing right, but then I'm definitely turning it 6 times and it's definitely less than 10 seconds. Am I supposed to wait until certain dash lights illuminate and then go out or what? I called the dealership this morning a 'technician' was supposed to call me back, not heard anything after a couple of hours so now calling some different auto-locksmiths, will feedback, fingers crossed I can get this sorted soon.

Weird one that, I've been trying before and after driving the car ever since last night and it's still playing silly buggers. I reckon by this point the fob has lost it's programme though, it's not been responding, no matter how long I stand next to the car pulling a stupid face, pressing buttons, swearing or promising the car a nice shampoo and wax. Piece of cack. It's normally so well behaved...

All, I noticed this first a couple of weeks ago, walking to my car in the morning, normally it would unlock as soon as I pressed the button stepping out of my front door, but it took until I'd walked around the car to the drivers door for the key fob to wake up and unlock the car, didn't think too much of it... As time went past it got steadily worse, but only ever in the morning - just after I've pulled the keys off the rack. I put this down to the battery running a little low and the keys getting cold(er) next to the front door, made a mental note to myself to buy a battery at the next opportunity. (Of course I didn't get round to it, always forget the problem when it's not happening!) Anyway, I went to the gym last night, walked out and the fob had died a death, stood there for about 5 minutes, warming the key between my hands, in my pocket, blah blah blah, absolutely nothing. So I unlock the door using the physical key, open the door, and of course the alarm starts going off. Took me a while to work out it would stop when I started the ignition, whoops. Got to Morrisons, they had the right battery, hooray! It didn't work. The car's still not responding to my frantic button stabbing. I drove the car home (lots of questioning looks from others in the car park when the alarm started going off) then had a good read on here, found the reprogramming thread and gave that a go. No worky. Failed at the first stage (key in ignition, on to lock 6 times) So in summary: MY2004 UKDM Only one key (my fault for not asking when buying) Key fob battery replaced (no improvement) Dashboard battery display was reading anywhere between 14-15V this morning, so car battery is no different to usual. Reprogramming table followed, tried turning the key from Lock to on 6 times and DID NOT get the double sidelight flash. Anyone know where I'm going wrong and how do I fix it? Would prefer not having to go to a stealership to get it sorted. Cheers!

After topping up the antifreeze mix I seem to have 'misplaced' my expansion bottle cap and require a new one, I don't need one right this minute as my bodge job seems to be working quite well, but would like to get one reasonably soon as it doesn't look all that smart! Thanks.

Sorry, didn't see there was a second page... whoops

If split I'd be interested in the splitter, that's all three pieces

Spotted the drive out procession on Saturday at some point, I was en route to Snowdon as the third mountain on the 3 peaks challenge so was a little drowsy and can't really remember it all that well, some awesome roads for it up there though!

Tried with my genuine lead this morning and it still didn't fancy it. I'll have a look at the shielding on the back of the HU next time I can motivate myself enough to pull the f*ckpig out, that's enough fiddly wires for me for a while, cheers for the hint!

You need a genuine cable I reckon, the cheap ones are really badly shielded so that is more than likely the issue Yeah I'll try slinging it in with a genuine one and feed back...

Done, . Feel slightly retarded but I'll put all the confusion down to tiredness and stress! Cheers for the (non) help sometimes you do have to take a step back from a job for a while to work out where you're going wrong... For some reason the audio is now playing fine when my iphone is connected up via BT, but when I plug it in through the USB port the speakers buzz really loudly with the music playing really quietly in the background, is this a hardware issue or is it something that Apple have secretly stuck in to make me buy a genuine lightning cable? (conspiracy theory hats on...)

Remove...

Ok, had a really good read (been a slow morning at work...) and the only mention from those threads is that the amp is located in the boot, does that mean I've got to root everything out of the boot, find the amp power cable and then trace it back to the loom at the front (or run a wire from the head unit back to the amp?)

I've flicked through it a few times but as it's quite an old thread it seems all of the image hosts have died, I'll keep trawling through it, but surely someone must have a photo of the car side of the Bose loom pointing out which wire powers the amp? Sorry again for the spoon feed request, got so stroppy with the car last night, probably not a great idea to wire in a complicated head unit at 8.30 in the rain after a 14 hour shift...

I'm really sorry to bring this subject up AGAIN, I've seen it covered quite a few times on here, but aside from people being told they need to wire in their amp when they have power but no sound there isn't really much more information... (there probably is but I'd need to look harder, and I've got so stressed with this I might need some spoon feeding...) Sorry if that's a bit unclear, it's still quite early in the morning! Basically I bought a JVC double DIN, then the ICT conversion loom for the Bose pre-06 model with the steering wheel controls, fitted all of that outside of the car so it should have been a matter of swapping the head units and then splicing in the 'amp power out' wire into the 350 loom, unfortunately I don't know which wire that is! What colour is the Bose amp power wire? I've seen white/blue mentioned on here so I tried to splice one of those in with no joy (there are two of them??). If anyone's got a photo of the specific wire that needs connecting in that would be perfect, I'm colourblind so colours like 'teal' or 'magenta' don't really work for me! Thanks in advance.

Thanks, I've had a look at their kit and if none pop up on here think I'll be going down that route

Just purchased a JVC KW-AV61BT after a fair bit of reading up as the Bose unit is rubbish. The guy I bought the car off did mention that at some point he'd fitted an Alpine single DIN, but had put everything back to standard when he was selling so not sure whether the ISO conversion kit is still in there, unlikely now I think about it... So I'm on the lookout for the appropriate harness, a AIS2260 I believe? Not majorly fussed about steering functions but if there's one going I'll have that too! Just putting the feelers out, see if anyone on here's got one before buying off Amazon. If you've got something send me a PM Cheers, Nathan.

I wasn't at the BDC, I'm working 12 hour days at the moment so not much time to get out and do fun stuff... Did go to one of the rounds at Lydden hill last year in the CRX though, was a good laugh!

A or B? Ahh, Mr. Blacklock, B site, down in the C&I department!