natehd9

Sorry all, been away from the computer for a while! I'm not sure what black it is, wasn't aware that there are more than one kind! It's a pre-facelift 54 plate GT model if that's any use? I'm located near Canterbury, in Kent. I'll PM zmanalex Cheers all!

Had a minor run in with a trailer at my parents earlier in the week, so on the look out for a black rear bumper, looking at historic sales it would appear a whole second hand bumper on here is cheaper than calling out a dent and scrape company... Madness! Cheers, Nathan

So I've just let my brother take the Z for a spin, we got to the petrol station where I spent a few seconds trying to explain where the petrol filler cap button was, in his rage of button stabbing he's managed to push the traction control button through. Do I now need to completely dismantle the dash or is there a separate panel that I can split off that consists of the TC button and the headlight washer button? I don't normally ( ) take TC off, but it has now left a big ugly hole in the dash, quite annoying really... I've had a quick search, but nothing is really coming up. Thanks in advance.

Yep, new battery then once you've memorised the sequence (or have laptop/ipad with sequence in front of you) it takes about 20 seconds all in to do if you've got it right. Definitely not worth £50 from a dealership!

Got it sorted last night. What it doesn't say on the UK re-programming flow chart is that you need to have the doors locked before you start the 'on - lock' sequence, tried it when I got home as a last resort and it worked first time, all now back as it should be. Another one I owe to the fountain of knowledge that is 350z-uk!

Couldn't get through on the phone so sent an email. Bailey's Canterbury want £51 for checking the key and having a go at re-programming it, which isn't bad, not overly keen on the £188 for a new key if it doesn't work though... might just have to suck it up if no-one else pulls through. For the record, very few Auto-locksmiths seem interested or able to work on a 350Z, why didn't I stick with 90's Japanese Hatchbacks?!

I'm in Canterbury so they aren't a million miles away, might give them a call now and see what they say...

Yeah I gave both methods a good few attempts last night but neither worked (the in and out one is USDM only AFAIK) might well be that I'm not getting the timing right, but then I'm definitely turning it 6 times and it's definitely less than 10 seconds. Am I supposed to wait until certain dash lights illuminate and then go out or what? I called the dealership this morning a 'technician' was supposed to call me back, not heard anything after a couple of hours so now calling some different auto-locksmiths, will feedback, fingers crossed I can get this sorted soon.

Weird one that, I've been trying before and after driving the car ever since last night and it's still playing silly buggers. I reckon by this point the fob has lost it's programme though, it's not been responding, no matter how long I stand next to the car pulling a stupid face, pressing buttons, swearing or promising the car a nice shampoo and wax. Piece of cack. It's normally so well behaved...

All, I noticed this first a couple of weeks ago, walking to my car in the morning, normally it would unlock as soon as I pressed the button stepping out of my front door, but it took until I'd walked around the car to the drivers door for the key fob to wake up and unlock the car, didn't think too much of it... As time went past it got steadily worse, but only ever in the morning - just after I've pulled the keys off the rack. I put this down to the battery running a little low and the keys getting cold(er) next to the front door, made a mental note to myself to buy a battery at the next opportunity. (Of course I didn't get round to it, always forget the problem when it's not happening!) Anyway, I went to the gym last night, walked out and the fob had died a death, stood there for about 5 minutes, warming the key between my hands, in my pocket, blah blah blah, absolutely nothing. So I unlock the door using the physical key, open the door, and of course the alarm starts going off. Took me a while to work out it would stop when I started the ignition, whoops. Got to Morrisons, they had the right battery, hooray! It didn't work. The car's still not responding to my frantic button stabbing. I drove the car home (lots of questioning looks from others in the car park when the alarm started going off) then had a good read on here, found the reprogramming thread and gave that a go. No worky. Failed at the first stage (key in ignition, on to lock 6 times) So in summary: MY2004 UKDM Only one key (my fault for not asking when buying) Key fob battery replaced (no improvement) Dashboard battery display was reading anywhere between 14-15V this morning, so car battery is no different to usual. Reprogramming table followed, tried turning the key from Lock to on 6 times and DID NOT get the double sidelight flash. Anyone know where I'm going wrong and how do I fix it? Would prefer not having to go to a stealership to get it sorted. Cheers!

After topping up the antifreeze mix I seem to have 'misplaced' my expansion bottle cap and require a new one, I don't need one right this minute as my bodge job seems to be working quite well, but would like to get one reasonably soon as it doesn't look all that smart! Thanks.

Sorry, didn't see there was a second page... whoops

If split I'd be interested in the splitter, that's all three pieces

Spotted the drive out procession on Saturday at some point, I was en route to Snowdon as the third mountain on the 3 peaks challenge so was a little drowsy and can't really remember it all that well, some awesome roads for it up there though!

Tried with my genuine lead this morning and it still didn't fancy it. I'll have a look at the shielding on the back of the HU next time I can motivate myself enough to pull the f*ckpig out, that's enough fiddly wires for me for a while, cheers for the hint!