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toykilla

APS Twin Turbo Info Page

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The JPM article is good, if a little too gushy.

 

"No doubt, further down the line, there will be a few nutters who will want to rip the big V6 engine to bits, stick in a load of forged goodies and metal gaskets and wind some more boost through the turbos – or even fit larger replacement versions. Quite frankly, there's really no need, as it's is so well rounded and so capable already. You'd be better oft finding the extra pace by losing weight from the 1545kg shell. "

 

Interesting point. Where are the obvious weight saves on the 350Z?

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Interesting point. Where are the obvious weight saves on the 350Z?

 

lots of articles about it in the US channels :)

CF fender

CF bonnet

CF boot

All interior plastics

AC

Lightweight battery

Plastic windows

etc etc etc

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but unfortunately the official UK installers won't install it as they do sell it over here too :)

 

Can't remember if there are also differences for RHD cars now

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this seems good value for money...£4,032 for a twin setup....hmm....got me thinking now....

 

Unfortunately the shipping and right hand drive differences (drive shaft issues etc) mean the official uk suppliers/installers will charge £9k total fully fitted - which in my opinion is very expensive. In the US or Japan you would be paying half this but not here :(

 

Personally the Stillen supercharger route (which is £4800 fully fitted in the UK - see http://www.evo.co.uk/carreviews/evocarr ... _350z.html) seems much better value at half the price for 370-380bhp - so not much less power difference than the turbo set up. I think they need to do something about a bonnet though (see the link)

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The huge chunk from the wallet would be worth a few kilos in weight saving!

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Interesting point. Where are the obvious weight saves on the 350Z?

 

 

 

 

Weight reduction table

Item Weight drop Approx. cost (USD)

Ti exhaust 50 lbs $1200

Carbon fiber hatch 45 lbs

Racing seats 15 lbs

Remove hatch weight 1.64 lbs

Remove rear wiper 5 lbs

Lightweight wheels 45 lbs

Remove rear speakers 5 lbs

Remove sub bracket 2.5 lbs

Remove spare and accessories 50 lbs

Lightweight flywheel 20 lbs

Light pulleys 5 lbs

Strut bar 10 lbs

Less gas 90 lbs

Wiper fluid 10 lbs

Battery (odyssey PC680) 20 lbs $150

 

 

 

 

from: http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Weight_Reduction_Guide

 

funny enough, the most effective weight reduction measure is driving your car with an empty fuel tank :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

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Interesting point. Where are the obvious weight saves on the 350Z?

 

 

 

 

Weight reduction table

Item Weight drop Approx. cost (USD)

Ti exhaust 50 lbs $1200

Carbon fiber hatch 45 lbs

Racing seats 15 lbs

Remove hatch weight 1.64 lbs

Remove rear wiper 5 lbs

Lightweight wheels 45 lbs

Remove rear speakers 5 lbs

Remove sub bracket 2.5 lbs

Remove spare and accessories 50 lbs

Lightweight flywheel 20 lbs

Light pulleys 5 lbs

Strut bar 10 lbs

Less gas 90 lbs

Wiper fluid 10 lbs

Battery (odyssey PC680) 20 lbs $150

 

 

 

 

from: http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Weight_Reduction_Guide

 

funny enough, the most effective weight reduction measure is driving your car with an empty fuel tank :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

what about the driver... :evil:

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Does the APS system require a full engine rebuild?

 

If you mean forging the internals then not really unless you are aiming for high HP/TQ ;)

The standard internals are good for 400whp and 380-390lb/ft torque. Above that it will blow eventually :surrender:

So the standard APS kit is a bolt on fit :p

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The APS kit is great quality mate but i think the new version has cheaper turbo's and does not use true garrett gt28rs's any more.

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I have got the APs kit on my Azure Z. I am over the moon. I did have 700BHP Supra prior to the Z. I will be honset the mid range power delivery is fenomenal. It is always there when you need it.

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The car use to belong to Chris B aka 'zedsway' on here,bless him.

 

Fully forged engine with cosworth internals. Aps Twin kit, tall boy aps intake mani, big baffeled sump, greedy oil cooler, big koyo ally rad, aps supplied injectors and fuel pump, full aps stainless steel exhaust with decat pipes.

All controlled by oem ecu with piggy back uni chip version one.

 

Currently it is at 464,3 BHP at fly with 392 ft lb tq.

 

If I could I would drive it non stop day and night, fantastic. Prior to the Z I have owned 700bhp big twin turbo supra. Ok supra was insanely quick, but I ll go with the Z all day every day.

 

Let me know if you need any more info I will be happy to share.

I will try to upload recent power run dyno graphs soon.

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The car use to belong to Chris B aka 'zedsway' on here,bless him.

 

Fully forged engine with cosworth internals. Aps Twin kit, tall boy aps intake mani, big baffeled sump, greedy oil cooler, big koyo ally rad, aps supplied injectors and fuel pump, full aps stainless steel exhaust with decat pipes.

All controlled by oem ecu with piggy back uni chip version one.

 

Currently it is at 464,3 BHP at fly with 392 ft lb tq.

 

If I could I would drive it non stop day and night, fantastic. Prior to the Z I have owned 700bhp big twin turbo supra. Ok supra was insanely quick, but I ll go with the Z all day every day.

 

Let me know if you need any more info I will be happy to share.

I will try to upload recent power run dyno graphs soon.

 

 

:worthless:

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Drop the uni chip get haltech or possibly retune with uprev got another 40 ponies at least and buckets more torque out of that setup! Skip the pic get a video up :p

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Drop the uni chip get haltech or possibly retune with uprev got another 40 ponies at least and buckets more torque out of that setup! Skip the pic get a video up :p

 

This is a possibilty:

 

I use my Z as a daily car. Standalone ecu all the way, for a track use. As daily car there might be trouble with various oem systems ie. central locking ect. That is why APS recomend piggy back.

 

But I am open to sugestions. Always chaseing more power :D.

 

By the way what clutch would you recomend?

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I would not look at a stand alone unit for the reasons you say. I would look at haltech since I got one and it controlls the boost controller better then the unichip both are piggy types so you don't loose any oem settings like you describe. I know some people say go with only uprev which maps the oem ecu, IMO you don't get all the goodies that you do with the haltech like boost control and using the internal map sensor on the ecu instead of the limited oem maf sensor. You get plenty more but that's enough for me also use the mini PC to hook it up to a mini LCD in the cubbyhole is neat ;) as I said we have the same or similar setup and I have buckets more torque and plenty more HP, torque is very noticeable;)

 

Djtimo on here runs uprev and other support bits and run higher then me (for the moment...) I used the uprev to delimit mine;)

 

Btw I got my aps kit from the same guys doing that dyno shootout. I'm currently running 0.9bar boost. My clutch is rated 600torque and feels oem to use. Its a southbend clutch from the states with xda flywheel.

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