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Clicking Axle Noise Solved - Try this first!!!!!


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Disclaimer - this worked for me and has for lots in the USA. I am not a trained mechanic - if you are unsure of mechanics leave this to an expert. I take no responsibility for any works that you ch

Hi everyone. If you have this clicking noise problem and you are close to my garage in Kent just pop down and I will lubricate it for you FOC.

if you don't mind driving 60 miles we can get these sorted for you at F.O.C with any service or £30 without service

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I definitely need to try this at some point, especially quoted £222 by Nissan to get this fixed as they call "fix issue 2".

 

Does the clicking actually affect the car in anyways in terms of wear/tear, it won't damage the car will it?

 

Plus does it have to be the marine and ball bearing grease, or can I just get the bog standard heavy duty ball bearing grease?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... ase&_sop=3

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I definitely need to try this at some point, especially quoted £222 by Nissan to get this fixed as they call "fix issue 2".

 

Does the clicking actually affect the car in anyways in terms of wear/tear, it won't damage the car will it?

 

Plus does it have to be the marine and ball bearing grease, or can I just get the bog standard heavy duty ball bearing grease?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... ase&_sop=3

 

It doesn't have to be that grease and it's not set in stone, but at those prices why not?

B)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I did this last night with thanks to neighbours flood lights and my camping head lamps, working till 8:30pm I did the drivers side, literally greased the collars,of the cv joint and spline itself. All fine, no clicking so far... Tempted to do the other side before I return mate's digital snap on torque wrench

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Did this the other week after seeing this post and I'm well happy to say the noise has totally disappeared, so easy and quick to do and so nice to not hear that annoying noise every time i move back and forth from a standstill!!!

 

Would totally recommend this is as it only takes about 20-30 mins a side.

 

Thanks for the advice :thumbs:

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I ran this by my independent the other day and he said that in all probability in the process of tightening the nuts on the half shaft up all you are doing is taking some pre-load out of the diff. You might be lucky or you could wind up with a seized diff he said. I decided to let well enough alone.

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I ran this by my independent the other day and he said that in all probability in the process of tightening the nuts on the half shaft up all you are doing is taking some pre-load out of the diff. You might be lucky or you could wind up with a seized diff he said. I decided to let well enough alone.

Sorry, but he is wrong. Even Nissan recommends this to be done and there is no solid connection between the drive shafts and the diff as 350Z has an independent suspension at the rear so there is no "pre-load" on the diff by the shafts.

Edited by KaizerMotor
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Sorry, but he is wrong. Even Nissan recommends this to be done and there is no solid connection between the drive shafts and the diff as 350Z has an independent suspension at the rear so there is no "pre-load" on the diff by the shafts.

Nevertheless, I'm inclined to leave it unless there could be potential damage. I can put up with the occasional click

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Did this a few months back and clicking noise has completly gone, even after my tackday there is still no noise!

 

I think people saying that the noise came back need to maybe think about what grease to use, i used copper grease as its water proof, many others will just degrade and come off when they get wet and the noise will return.

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  • 2 months later...

A question for everyone that's done this. When the guide says "clonk the axle in" I take it you but the wooden block against the bolt you have un-done and then hit the wood with a hammer?

 

This should leave the brake disk where it is, but move the part your hitting backwards a bit? Are these normally very stiff?

 

As for the Grease, Ive ordered some of the stuff mentioned in the OP's post. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140357865766

Edited by cs2000
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This should leave the brake disk where it is, but move the part your hitting backwards a bit? Are these normally very stiff?

 

 

Yes, I had to actually whack it with a hammer, not just tickle it. :lol:

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This should leave the brake disk where it is, but move the part your hitting backwards a bit? Are these normally very stiff?

 

 

Yes, I had to actually whack it with a hammer, not just tickle it. :lol:

Great, thanks. Now (and don't take this the wrong way.... :nono: ) I need to go and get me some wood....

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SO, did this at the weekend.

 

Mine is a 04 plate car currently on 59,000 miles.

 

Passenger side bolt came off, I used a 2ft breaker bar. Had to keep pushing it but the bolt suddenly snapped loose and I hit my hand on the floor :( ouch. Anyway, then got some wood and hit the axle out, only thing is, I couldn't really see where to grease, so I unwound the bolt some more, then some more, then some more until it was only on by 2-3 threads, hit it again and the bolt went wonky....uh-oh... Luckily I took it off and saw only minimal damage. After lubricating best I could I very slowly and carefully hand tightened the nut (using the socket for a better grip) and forced it to go on level. I damaged the first 2 ish twists on the bolt end, but the nut was largely fine, once past the initial few threads it went on and torqued up fine.

 

Spin round and do the same on drivers, oh no... Got to undoing the bolt and left it soaking with Plusgas for 15 mins or so just in case it was seized, got out the bar and no way in hell was it moving, so soaked it again, still nothing, tried using some heat, STILL nothing. Luckily I called a garage close to me and they said to pop by. This was 11:30 and the garage closes at 12, so I dropped the car down off of the jack, oh $h1T.... I forgot to put the wheel back on!!! so now i was stuck with 3 wheels on my wagon and a jack stuck under the rear dif with no room for me to get anything into the jack to lift it up again! lol. Luckily I had a hammer :D so I lifted the jack handle part up, and then hit it down with the hammer, this raised the car an inch orso, enough for me to get the proper handle in. Thankfully the jack being stuck on the dif stopped it from hitting the deck, but the brake disk was only clear of the floor by 2 cm orso, very close.

 

I quickly popped over with all my tools in the car and he got it undone in a few seconds as they had a bigger tool, im guessing a 4-5 ft breaker bar, still took all his weight for a few seconds to get it to move however, and again, when it let go it suddenly let go and the mechanic almost face planted the floor, I actually thought he had snapped the breaker bar by the speed he went down. Anyway, I tightened it up with my tools, went home and then un-did it again and greased that side too.

 

So two points to note here.

 

1. The bolts are liable to suddenly let go, but need a hell of a lot of force, be aware that your likely to hurt your hands or face plant the floor unless using air tools.

 

2. As for moving the axle, I found a piece of wood was great initially, but it was actually better to totally remove the nut and fold up some thick cardboard, shove this inside the hole so it covers the bolt and then lightly tap this with a hammer until you've moved it enough. This allowed me to get a larger gap in which it was easier to lubricate, and as long as your careful you wont lose the axle.

 

3. Even on an 04 with medium mileage the axle moved very freely, you shouldn't need to beat the heck out of it to get it to move.

 

TLDR: clicking solved, 1 hand and 1 mechanic slightly injuired.

Edited by cs2000
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Thanks for this awesome guide!

 

My clicking has gone.

 

It makes sense how this works, the surface rust on the drive shaft flange sticks to the bearing races.

 

Because the races rotate at different speeds it will stick and unstick as the car stops and moves off.

 

 

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