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Have I done goofed?? Idle Issue - Fix Page 3


jowen7448

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Have you seen/tried this? (second last post) http://www.350z-uk.c...-body-question/

 

I hadn't seen this specific thread before, thanks for trying to help, but I have tried battery disconnects, ECU disconnects, pedal dance resets numerous times, hard reset, ECU reflash that really should reset everything and still not perfect yet. Thanks though, appreciate all help and contributions.

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Have you seen/tried this? (second last post) http://www.350z-uk.c...-body-question/

 

I hadn't seen this specific thread before, thanks for trying to help, but I have tried battery disconnects, ECU disconnects, pedal dance resets numerous times, hard reset, ECU reflash that really should reset everything and still not perfect yet. Thanks though, appreciate all help and contributions.

 

Reading that last bit of the post bizizl highlighted, the last step is a curious one.

 

"I redid the pedal dance for learning the trottle position. This time I did one thing slightly different though which I suspect was the previous cause of all my problems. After releasing the accelerator pedal when the engine light becomes steady I just flicked the key one more notch to start the engine rather than through force of habit been turing off then on to start the engine."

 

I could easily see myself getting this key bit wrong and turning the key to off, instead of pushing it straight on to start. Good spot :thumbs:

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  • 3 weeks later...

I figured I should update this in case anyone reads up on it in future.

 

I am tempted to call this resolved at the moment.

 

The frustrating bit is I am not really sure what has happened. If you have followed the thread you would know that I had my ECU reflashed by Mark@Abbey, massive thanks to him for the outstanding service here by the way, but after initially seeming like all was well symptoms returned. The odd bit was the symptoms were inconsistent and after long drives seemed to go away a bit.

 

Anyway I did myself a full service, plugs, oils, fluids etc etc and since then it all seemed to calm down, not perfect but nowhere near as bad. During a long journey one day I decided to stop at services after a couple of hours on motorway and do all the resets again, as car was all nice and warmed up and idle dropped from the circa 850 that it was to the 650 shown in the manual. Since then I have not had any issues (although the car has not been out loads to be fair).

 

I'm wondering if the full service which required removing throttle bodies etc to change the plugs, meaning all hoses were obviously disconnected and reconnected, plus the freshly bled cooling bla bla bla all contributed. Maybe there was an airleak somewhere or a small stubborn airlock in a coolant hose or maybe something else. All this calmed it down enough to let the idle air reset complete and all seems fine.

 

I wish I could better pinpoint the solution for people who have a similar issue in future but apologise that I can't.

 

Long story short, thanks to all who took interest, made suggestions etc. In particular thanks again to Mark for his help as detailed above and to SuperStu for popping round with his laptop and uprev cable. Really appreciate it. I am now happy with the way the car is running and back to thoroughly loving the Zed. Fingers crossed it doesn't return as before.

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Good to hear, amazing how such a simple action can result in such a hellish path of resolution!

 

Thanks, I would be a little happier if I knew what the cause was and the subsequent fix but I can't complain since everything seems to be ok now.

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Glad it's resolved, maybe a bit of gunk from cleaning somehow got inside the cylinders and dirtied a plug or something, hence changing them fixed the issue :shrug:

 

Aye could be, although plugs didn't look particularly bad and all looked similar, who knows. Just happy it's ok

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im very pleased its all sorted now. i think the fact that you felt it necessary to carry out a reset at the services mid journey means the issue be it small was still present. then since the reset on a warm engine, allowed the idle to drop to book spec - meanimg that was the fix.

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im very pleased its all sorted now. i think the fact that you felt it necessary to carry out a reset at the services mid journey means the issue be it small was still present. then since the reset on a warm engine, allowed the idle to drop to book spec - meanimg that was the fix.

 

I don't disagree here, but prior to the full service I had done this reset numerous times. It would drop revs initially and then give up. Mark@Abbey informed me that it won't complete if the revs were too high to begin with. Before disconnecting everything for the umpteenth time the revs wouldn't sit low enough for long enough while warm to carry out the reset. It was only after doing everything that it calmed down enough to be able to attempt the reset with a reasonable assumption that it would complete.

 

So whilst I am tempted to agree that the idle air reset was what finished off the fix, I think some interaction along the way of reconnecting hoses and fresh fluids everywhere made the reset possible, if that makes sense.

Edited by jowen7448
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Bit of googling suggests it's to stop it from freezing in cold weather.

 

Every day is a school day

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I used to have an alfasud and they had really long inlet manifolds. Anyway, when you blipped the throttle frost would form on the top of the manifold and then immediately disappear due to heat from the engine. I'm pretty sure its due to the pressure drop caused by the throttle opening and this causes the air temp to drop (Boyles Law?!) and cool the manifold enough to freeze any moisture on it. Frost/ice in the induction system is bad news - in carburetterd aircraft pilots apply carb heat to stop ice forming.
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Bit of googling suggests it's to stop it from freezing in cold weather.

 

Every day is a school day

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I used to have an alfasud and they had really long inlet manifolds. Anyway, when you blipped the throttle frost would form on the top of the manifold and then immediately disappear due to heat from the engine. I'm pretty sure its due to the pressure drop caused by the throttle opening and this causes the air temp to drop (Boyles Law?!) and cool the manifold enough to freeze any moisture on it. Frost/ice in the induction system is bad news - in carburetterd aircraft pilots apply carb heat to stop ice forming.

 

That's a really nice snippet of information, thank you :)

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