Tuck Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Sooo I've a Kuro black 350z and the paint work has swirl marks all over, and the usual stone chips on the front end. Also a scuff on the rear bumper (not through the lacquer). This was all nicely covered and filled in from a layer of wax when I was buying the car. So instead of re-waxing every couple of weeks I decided to get myself a decent DA polisher (G220) to minimise any chance of burning! A friend gave me a few Menzerna detailing products. Got myself a few de-contamination products and some polishing pads. Usual 2 buckets with grit guards and a noodle mit! And a bottle of Iron X is on its way. So I'm told the Zed has very soft paint. I don't want to fire ahead with anything until i've some advice for fear of possibly damaging something or wasting products! I'm not after a show stopping shine but its currently so dull, So if anyone has advice or an idiots guide with the items I have and any other products I need would be great, cheers guys! Sent from my potato using duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZeppoJeff Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Best thing to do it work with the soft pad and then least harsh compound then working up compounds until u find one that works. If no luck then work up to next pad then same again with compounds. How can u be bothered doing it in this weather though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jumzo Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 I got right into all this a couple of years back, kinda lost interest in recent times though. Loads of good guides and recommendations on Polished Bliss website and the detailing world forum. It can all get a bit too anal once you start down that path though! In general terms what Jeff says Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuck Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 Best thing to do it work with the soft pad and then least harsh compound then working up compounds until u find one that works. If no luck then work up to next pad then same again with compounds. How can u be bothered doing it in this weather though Silly question, how do you know if has worked? Haha, just clear the remaining product off and shine a light to it? well we have a couple of clear days... a year hahaha Sent from my potato using duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuck Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 I got right into all this a couple of years back, kinda lost interest in recent times though. Loads of good guides and recommendations on Polished Bliss website and the detailing world forum. It can all get a bit too anal once you start down that path though! In general terms what Jeff says Yeah I wanted to avoid the detailing forums as they are extremely anal, refuse to clean my car with a cotton bud! I was looking for a rough guide for people that like to drive the cars, not just clean them! I'll still have a look though, cheers bud Sent from my potato using duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 (edited) Ya same as above .... Was big into it but really brings the geek out in you ( well it did for me ! ) can't really do any harm with the da polisher though to be honest . I used to do my owns cars but after having my car paint corrected and ceramic coated at envy Valeting I'll probably never pick up my da again , the quality is so far beyond what I could achieve . Some of the best money I've lavished on the zed imo! Edited January 4, 2016 by Bodyboarder81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 (edited) Best thing to do it work with the soft pad and then least harsh compound then working up compounds until u find one that works. If no luck then work up to next pad then same again with compounds. How can u be bothered doing it in this weather though Silly question, how do you know if has worked? Haha, just clear the remaining product off and shine a light to it? well we have a couple of clear days... a year hahaha If you want to do it properly you will need to do it inside and have spot lights set up Sent from my potato using duct tape Edited January 4, 2016 by Bodyboarder81 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuck Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 Ya same as above .... Was big into it but really brings the geek out in you ( well it did for me ! ) can't really do any hard with the da polisher though to be honest . I used to do my owns cars but after having my car paint corrected and ceramic coated at envy Valeting I'll probably never pick up my da again , the quality is so far beyond what I could achieve . Some of the best money I've lavished on the zed imo! I have heard of these space age coatings but are they not a bit expensive? Sent from my potato using duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Best thing to do it work with the soft pad and then least harsh compound then working up compounds until u find one that works. If no luck then work up to next pad then same again with compounds. How can u be bothered doing it in this weather though Silly question, how do you know if has worked? Haha, just clear the remaining product off and shine a light to it? well we have a couple of clear days... a year hahaha Sent from my potato using duct tape Find a small place on the car with some defects, but out the way and test there (rear passenger side is miles away from the driver's door ). A narrow beam light is a great way of finding defects, re-checking the area and then deciding if you need to adjust your combination of compound and pad. Go easy to start with, get it right and you should be ok. I know the Zed's paint is supposed to be soft, but it took me a good while to shift a few scratches with a DA and a menzerna soft paint kit. If the car's new, be really careful to check for any unknown repairs that might have been done by PO. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 *Waits for ilogikal1, Ed or Ricey to log in*... Link: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/82410-the-ilogikal1-test-thread/ Link: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/217-divine-detail/ Link: http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/220-revolve-automotive-ltd/ 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Yes they are pretty pricey and the most important thing is that the paint needs to be 100% clean , that's why generally to make the most of ceramic coating its best to have the car fully paint corrected before hand . I've used 20 odd different waxs over the years ... Some of which were better than other ( dodo was great as was the cheap carnauba was from auto smart ) but still only lasted 3-4 months max . Ceramic coating does what it's called , coats the paint in a very very hard ceramic , which is why it lasts up to 5 years and helps gaurd against swirl marks ...... If it does last 4-5 odd years then it probably works out not that much different than repeated polishing / waxing . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuck Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 Best thing to do it work with the soft pad and then least harsh compound then working up compounds until u find one that works. If no luck then work up to next pad then same again with compounds. How can u be bothered doing it in this weather though Silly question, how do you know if has worked? Haha, just clear the remaining product off and shine a light to it? well we have a couple of clear days... a year hahaha Sent from my potato using duct tape Find a small place on the car with some defects, but out the way and test there (rear passenger side is miles away from the driver's door ). A narrow beam light is a great way of finding defects, re-checking the area and then deciding if you need to adjust your combination of compound and pad. Go easy to start with, get it right and you should be ok. I know the Zed's paint is supposed to be soft, but it took me a good while to shift a few scratches with a DA and a menzerna soft paint kit. If the car's new, be really careful to check for any unknown repairs that might have been done by PO. Okay like a test section, got ya. I'd probably do the upper bonnet (away from stone chips) as if i mess it up thats most in need of a respray. Cheers bud. Sent from my potato using duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Pic whoring as I'm a ceramic convert 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuck Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 So about paint prep, so far I've been led to believe; •Wash (G3 body prep) •Iron X •Wash •Dry •Clay •Wash •Dry •IPA (50/50 water) Anything else? Then compound, polish, glaze... Does this require a sealant too? Sent from my potato using duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 For me, there's not much in drying before you clay, may as well clay with the clean soapy water for lube. And if you're doing an IPA wipe down, I personally wouldn't bother with another wash after clay, just rinse it off. But that's just me, I know there are purer, more dedicated types out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuck Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 For me, there's not much in drying before you clay, may as well clay with the clean soapy water for lube. And if you're doing an IPA wipe down, I personally wouldn't bother with another wash after clay, just rinse it off. But that's just me, I know there are purer, more dedicated types out there. Saved me about an hour ahahah, cheers pal! Sent from my potato using duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 For me, there's not much in drying before you clay, may as well clay with the clean soapy water for lube. And if you're doing an IPA wipe down, I personally wouldn't bother with another wash after clay, just rinse it off. But that's just me, I know there are purer, more dedicated types out there. Saved me about an hour ahahah, cheers pal! Sent from my potato using duct tape All IMO of course, wait until ilogikal1 and Ricey turn up with 15 more steps for you 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodyboarder81 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 15 ........ More like 50 !! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuck Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 Hahaha, well I'm looking forward to the advice! Sent from my potato using duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuck Posted January 4, 2016 Author Share Posted January 4, 2016 And if course I'll update with some pictures once its done, if theres a clear day Sent from my potato using duct tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay Kay Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 Agreed with SuperStu, no point in drying before claying, although i'd use a dedicated clay lube rather than just soapy water when claying 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul K Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 There's a really good guide to machine polishing/paint correction on the detailing world forum Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HEADPHONES Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 That clay mitt will save you alot of time. I have the same one and will only use regular clay for awkward corners now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
veilside z Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 How on earth did we all get by in the 80s without all these modern Gizmos? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilogikal1 Posted January 4, 2016 Share Posted January 4, 2016 (edited) I has arrived to add a millionty more steps to your process. So about paint prep, so far I've been led to believe; •Wash (G3 body prep) •Iron X •Wash •Dry •Clay •Wash •Dry •IPA (50/50 water) Anything else? Then compound, polish, glaze... Does this require a sealant too? As has been said, no need to (or point in) dry(ing) before claying. I'd also replace all the subsequent washes (after the initial one, obviously) with just a thorough rinse. There's no point in using IPA before polishing either, so move that step to after polishing. You'll use the IPA to remove anything left behind by the compounds to give you a true indication of the correction acheived. Also, polish and compound are that same thing, so that's yet another step you don't need to worry about and use of a glaze would depend entirely on your chosen Last Stage Product (LSP) - if waxing, glaze is optional, if using a sealant it's likely to be detrimental, if using a coating then it's a big no-no. Also worth noting about polishing, you need to make sure you're working the polish for long enough - when the polish turns clear and you can't really see it on the paint anymore, that's about long enough - but the best way of checking the actual correction acheived is by wiping the area with diluted IPA and checking it in direct sunlight... but you don't want to polish outside (too high a chance of contaminant ruining everything for you!) so decent lighting is a useful indicator whilst you're going round the car - it's usually worth rolling it back outside once you've done the car if the sun is out to double check the finish. And yes, you will need to seal afterwards, whether that be a wax, sealant or coating depends on a billionty other things but largely comes down to what you're trying to acheive - looks durability, cost, ease of application, speed of application, something new, something old, something blue... no wait, that's something else. With regards to the actual polishing, as previously stated, always start with the least aggressive combination and step up only if you need to. Whilst the paint on Z's is butter soft (Stu, try polishing a BMW, you'll really appreciate how [comparatively] easy the Z is to polish ), the polish will still need to be worked properly to be effective, this will likely take a 4-5 passes and a good couple of minutes per section. Polished Bliss give great advice by the way. My full process would be; Wash. Rinse. Iron X. Rinse. De-tar. Rinse. Clay. Rinse. Optional paint clenser. Polish (compound). IPA wipedown. What follows after this will be determined by the LSP. I think that's covered everything. Edited January 4, 2016 by ilogikal1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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