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Chemical Guys - Black Luminous Glow Wax


Rich260

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Hi all,

 

I'm new to the forum and new to 350Z's but not to a bit of detailing :)

 

I have just purchased my first Z in black and I love it! However having gone from a Titan silver BMW which seemed to hide a multitude of sins to a black car has it's issues! I'm struggling to get the same level of finish I had with the silver, specifically the longevity of it... The first time it rains, the paint shows water marks and genral grime straight away.

 

Has any one tried the above product? If there sales pitch is to be believed, this wax had been "specially formulated" for black paint (as the name may suggest). I've just ordered a pot as my usual AG HD doesn't quite seem to cut it but it would be great to hear if any one on the forum has experence with the chemical guys stuff :)

 

Cheers, rich

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Most of their solvent products are pretty good, I use a few of them on occasion. However, waxes for colours is marketing horse manure. ;)

 

Don't forget that a wax is an LSP, so is designed to protect. AGHD should be fine on a 350 if you've been happy with it on the BMW, but how much prep work have you done to the paint before using it? Black can be a nightmare, but I've always found that if its been corrected as much as possible then the LSP lasts longer.

 

I prefer DJSN as my wax of choice, however I have used FK1000P before as well which lasts for aaaaaaaaaages. Right now I'm trialling Envy FA, on the Clio and the BMW, just to see how long it lasts. So far, it's outperforming anything else I've used in terms of beading and ease of cleaning. Not cheap, and maybe not what you're after, but I love it.

 

 

So yeah, DJSN for me. I prefer it to the £120 pot of Swissvax I've still got floating around...

Edited by Ekona
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check out illogicals posts :thumbs:

 

Wow. This guy has taken it wayyy beyond any thing I have ever done! Thanks for pointing that out, I'll give that an in depth read :)

 

Hi Ekona, so far the car has had the same treatment as the BMW, all be it only the once as I've only had her a couple of weeks. My usial prep (body work only) would be;

 

Pre rince

Snow foam

Wash with AG shampoo

Dry with full grain chamois leather

Cley bar with turtle wax kit

Polish AG deep shine polish

Finish with a wax

 

I've no experience with any DJ products but have heard nothing but good things about them so that may be my next go to. Interesting to here you prefer that to Swissvax, I don't think many people would own up to that after shelling out the £120!

 

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check out illogicals posts :thumbs:

Wow. This guy has taken it wayyy beyond any thing I have ever done! Thanks for pointing that out, I'll give that an in depth read :)

 

:D

 

 

Apologies for the long post - I tend to ramble on, on this topic. :lol:

 

 

In terms of Chemical Guys products in general; never, ever, EVER believe their marketing! Always look for independent reviews because Chemical Guys UK import the products from the manufacturer (Chemical Guys USA), sadly Chemical Guys USA don't know what they make and Chemical Guys UK don't know what they sell! Have a look at the marketing for Black Light for example, between the two it promises to do everything of everer whereas in reality it's just a glaze.

That's not to say they're bad products, they typically do what they do quite well. They just don't quite do what CGUK/CGUSA promise they do...

 

 

As Mr Dan has pointed out, products "designed" for specific colours is just marketing to a degree - any last stage product (LSP) will work on any colour. Granted some look marginally (and I do mean marginally!) better on certain finishes than others, but to be honest most people wouldn't notice any difference when they're sat side-by-side on the same panel [/voice of experience].

 

Bin the chamois, get a microfibre drying towel and learn the fine art of the pat dry - never drag anything over the paintwork unless you have to, especially on the uber-soft Nissan paint! - or better still get yourself a DI resin filter; final rinse with filtered water & leave to dry naturally. No drying needed, no water marks left behind.

 

I personally don't rate AG Shampoo either, but that might just be me. :lol:

 

Also remember that AG UDS contains a wealth of fillers - there's nothing wrong with that from a finish point of view, but it won't hide all the marring which will affect the finish you get, and it will adversely affect the durability of the LSP to some degree.

Sadly with black, you're always going to suffer from it looking dirtier, quicker as that's just the nature of black - black looks awesome when it's freshly polished but looks terrible 5 minutes later. :p There's not much you can do about water marks from the rain really as any rain that dries on the car is going to leave something behind as a rule.

 

 

More generally though, as Mr Dan has eluded to, the finish you get will be determined by the preparation you do prior to the wax/LSP. The better the prep, the better the finish. With black it's all about making the paint as defect-free and flat as possible which invariably means polishing, polishing and more polishing. Look into abrasive compounds depending on your level of experience and what risks you're willing to take... or look into paying a professional to do that bit for you if you'd rather. After that's been done once, you should be all right with AG USD, for a while at least, but ideally you want to perfect your safe wash technique - namely making it as touchless as possible, applying the 2 bucket method and using the right type of products.

Edited by ilogikal1
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Most of their solvent products are pretty good, I use a few of them on occasion. However, waxes for colours is marketing horse manure. ;)

 

Don't forget that a wax is an LSP, so is designed to protect. ADHG should be fine on a 350 if you've been happy with it on the BMW, but how much prep work have you done to the paint before using it? Black can be a nightmare, but I've always found that if its been corrected as much as possible then the LSP lasts longer.

 

I prefer DJSN as my wax of choice, however I have used FK1000P before as well which lasts for aaaaaaaaaages. Right now I'm trialling Envy FA, on the Clio and the BMW, just to see how long it lasts. So far, it's outperforming anything else I've used in terms of beading and ease of cleaning. Not cheap, and maybe not what you're after, but I love it.

 

 

So yeah, DJSN for me. I prefer it to the £120 pot of Swissvax I've still got floating around...

 

What what what! Envy (as in Tim) is doing a wax? You got a linky?

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Most of their solvent products are pretty good, I use a few of them on occasion. However, waxes for colours is marketing horse manure. ;)

 

Don't forget that a wax is an LSP, so is designed to protect. ADHG should be fine on a 350 if you've been happy with it on the BMW, but how much prep work have you done to the paint before using it? Black can be a nightmare, but I've always found that if its been corrected as much as possible then the LSP lasts longer.

 

I prefer DJSN as my wax of choice, however I have used FK1000P before as well which lasts for aaaaaaaaaages. Right now I'm trialling Envy FA, on the Clio and the BMW, just to see how long it lasts. So far, it's outperforming anything else I've used in terms of beading and ease of cleaning. Not cheap, and maybe not what you're after, but I love it.

 

 

So yeah, DJSN for me. I prefer it to the £120 pot of Swissvax I've still got floating around...

 

What what what! Envy (as in Tim) is doing a wax? You got a linky?

https://www.facebook...693465/?fref=ts

 

http://www.envyvaleting.co.uk/products-info.asp?id=413

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I have toyed with the idea of abrasive compounds but never really had the guts to do it on my car! I've machined my dad's boat using G3 superfine and it always comes up like new.... But then that's on a nice thick, perhaps more forgiving gel coat. I think I'll try to refine my prep work a bit more before I attempt it on the car.

 

The DI water is a great idea, I have a 4 stage RO/DI unit from my old fish tank so I'll give that a go to, I always find drying to be the most boring part of the whole ordeal so any thing to speed that up is grand :) I'll have a re sort of my chosen products once I've used up my current supplies to.

 

Coldel- that is stunning, just what I'm trying to achieve!

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No need to dry before clay barring the car, rinse shampoo off and keep the car wet, use less 'lube' for the clay this way too. Oh and wash it again after claying :)

 

Also, look into polymer sealants over waxes if you want longevity.

 

Great results on my Ebisu black on my build thread, post #027

 

_OGG2163_zpszzxwkzjo.jpg

 

_OGG2186_zpspdp78jd0.jpg

 

_OGG2213_zpskv7bpdhn.jpg

Edited by Ogman
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Well I used the wax today after taking some of the advice given on here regarding prep work and I'm very pleased with the results! The wax it's self nice to use, being a paste it's very easy to use and a little goes a long way. I'm not convinced the finish will last as long as a harder wax but I would say the immediate finish is just as good.

post-26852-0-89014200-1443900530_thumb.jpg

post-26852-0-01005400-1443900793_thumb.jpg

post-26852-0-14422500-1443900817_thumb.jpg

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Gleaming mate, always feels good stepping back and admiring the finished article. I did mine yday, 6hr job from start to finish, but my oh my that shine it gives afterwards is totally worth it.

 

You can see what I did here towards the bottom of the page :)

http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/86570-chirag1988s-build-thread-my-dream-mod-come-true/page__st__140

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