ZMANALEX

I have had no problems bleeding with an RJM clutch pedal. Try bleeding following the procedure below: if this still does not work, I have OEM clutch pedal assemblies in stock and are good to go same/next day. CAUTION: Monitor fluid level in the reservoir tank to make sure it does not empty. Do not spill clutch fluid onto painted surfaces. If it spills, wipe up immediately and wash the affected area with water. Bleed the operating cylinder. 1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir tank with new clutch fluid. 2. Connect a transparent vinyl hose to the air bleeder. 3. Depress the clutch pedal quickly and fully a few times and hold it. 4. With clutch pedal depressed, open air bleeder. 5. Close air bleeder. 6. Release clutch pedal and wait for 5 seconds. 7. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until no bubbles can be observed in the brake fluid. Air bleeder: : 5.9 - 9.8 N·m (0.61 - 0.99 kg-m, 53 - 86 in-lb)

The issue certainly sounds like a hydraulic problem and not mechanical. Are you still running a CSC or have you the CSC delete kit fitted? Are you running the RJM pedal system? Not sure what you mean by this: "What also makes diagnoses slightly harder is that I have the RJM Clutch Assembly Kit fitted to the car (and I stupidly threw away the OEM pedal kit) so bleeding it can be even more difficult than usual."

Best to buy an exhaust that fits straight out the box, however no drama in heating and bending to solve the interference issue.

Just your standard front bumper fixing. 100s in stock.

Well done, looks like a factory fit.

Very easy install, probably a 3. However bleeding the coolant system can be a bit tricky and could be a challenge for you, so that could be an 8 for you, best to follow the factory manual for the bleeding and you will eventually get there.

For sale are 4 x heavy duty preowned hydraulic wheel skates. I used these for moving cars that I was dismantling around the shop Just slip the skate into position and pump the foot pedal. Very easy to use and very easy to move the car about. More pictures available if required. 12 months old: Cost £485.39. Bargain price £200.00

Double Post.

Impossible to give an informed diagnosis from afar Andy, best to take it to your local 350Z indy

1st step is to recheck the oil level when cold on a level surface.

Much will depend if at the end of the agreement you make the final balloon payment, use the car as equity as a deposit for another car, or simply hand the car back and walk away

In stock mate, PM on its way:

Put 6 of these in the skip earlier today, shame as 4 were in great shape I could not give them away as peeps did not want to pay the £10.00 shipping cost.

Only I x set left in stock:

PM on its way shortly mate:

Are these what you are after?

I will check this out for you when back in the shop on Monday.

Just to be clear, so you want a non sat-nav cubby similar to the one in your image?

Sat Nav or Non sat Nav? Coupe or Roadster?

Unmarked trims are in stock

Just love a TR6 in Royal Blue: GLWS

Intermediate pipes for 370 and 370 Nismo are not interchangeable.

As you have discovered the electrics are different between the coupe and the roadster. The roadster also have controls on the rear of the seat. The roadster seats also have an auto electrical mechanism which slightly tilts the passenger seat when the roof is operated. Best to swop like for like to save all the aggro. The HR electrics are also different to the DE, as are UK model and JDM. I am not saying that it can't be done, but there is no conversion kit for this as far as I know.

The UK GT4 LM1 rims are: Front: 18 x 8JJ OS 30 Rear: 18x 8.5jj OS 33

To add to the above, from my notes: