Ekona

Exactly. If they were great speakers at a bargain price then brilliant, but they're not-very-good speakers at a cheap price.

Away from the norm? It's a normal F with the go faster bits from the XKR-S, some carbon tat and a hump behind the driver seat!

Kinda my point. It's a waste.

Still weighs 400kg too much. More power isn't the answer. Maybe they could've spent some of this budget on making the actual for sale car lighter?

Heh, well spotted. For someone clued up on audio, I'd expect them to realise that those coax jobbies are worse than a separate tweeter and woofer. Especially considering you're after clarity. Each to their own in terms of what sounds right to their ears between brands, but not when you're talking about mounting a technically inferior method of audio output. Then it's just wrong.

Which Pilot Sports? There are at least three PS tyres that can fit on the Zed

Easier to slash a roof costing thousands on a ragtop than a tintop. Also more likely to get left with the roof down and nicked, vandalised etc.

Being clued up on car audio and installing 6x9 speakers are mutually exclusive terms. The Bose is crap, and clarity over booming bass everyday

Same for MX-5s too, very positive reviews. FWIW, and this is coming from someone that has an interest in suspension but no real need to purchase, at the lower end I would get either the BC or Meister R dampers and springs. At the top end, the V3 would be near enough the only place I'd go to.

*sigh* It's incredibly common for Frenchies to buy a car from the UK, and make the initial contact via email. It's what I would do if buying from abroad and my foreign language wasn't as good as it could be. Again, it's something I'd chase up if I wanted the sale, not ignore.

Pearoast

Perfectly normal. Lots of car buyers from France nowadays, all want the chassis number. Give it to them, unless the rest of the conversation clearly looks like a scam.

Whatever you do, just remember that you're literally taking your life in your own hands when fitting harnesses/seatbelts. You really, really don't want to be mucking around, so if ever you're not sure then seek professional advice. The stresses you can put through these fixings in the case of a high speed accident are insane. Not saying either of you would do that, just thinking out loud is all.

USE THE ORIGINAL THREAD YOU FOOLS

That's some pretty frickin' accurate measuring!

I said I wouldn't get another one, but that's only because I prefer tintops now. Nowt wrong with the ragtop, just my changing taste.

'Tis there on both pics above, with a Zed logo on it.

It's a wind deflector, and it's standard on all AFAIK. I've never seen one without, got a pic?

ARBs connect both sides of the suspension together at the lower points, and try to stop the car rolling on the lateral plane by opposing movements on the strut. Best case they can be used to fine tune suspension characteristics, worse case they'll make the car jump and lose traction when one side hits a rut in the road. You can increase and decrease under/oversteer front to back with them quite subtly or quite harshly, depending on the thickness of the bar and how adjustable the bars are, as well as the quality and condition of your droplinks. Bet you wish you'd never asked now

245/35/19 sidewall is 85.75mm, 225/40/18 sidewall is 90mm, so you're on a smaller sidewall than the 18"s. 18" wheels are much lighter, so even if you had a smaller sidewall due to the smaller unsprung mass you would still have a much more compliant ride.

Depends on what you want the car to do. Thicker ARBs aren't always better.

I'd say suspension initially. However... You have lost some sidewall on this conversion so your ride is going to be that bit harder, which in turn means that with less sidewall your dampers have much more work to do. Compared with what you're used to, it's going to feel like the front has much less compliance (which it does). Solution would be to either change the dampers and run softer ones, go back to smaller wheel and bigger profile tyre combo, or live with it.

Check the oil level. That's the only thing that's important. As long as the gauge reads between zero and max, that's generally perfectly fine.

Excellent, glad it's not just me then! It's not a massive issue, as I too buy the boxes for the other bits which are great, more curious than anything.

Really? I'm sure I've seen a vid of a RHD one on UK roads?? Nope, they're only doing them in LHD as the market for RHD cars will be tiny. Sad that a UK car manufacturer is doing that.