Ekona

Yes and no. I don't expect to get 20K miles out of a set, but if they'll last me a year then that's a price worth paying for a car that handles as I want it to. As an aside, the BMW has now been taken by the wife who is using it as her car and she has no issues with driving said car with a fairly aggressive geo, as I know some people do get worried that they will make their car too twitchy.

That first video is a perfect example of a completely useless feature: The head movement is so OTT, either the drive isn't strapped in or his neck is made of elastic! Also you can't see the dash to know when to shift. Hope fully that view won't make the cut. Very excited for this though, what car & track are you going to try first Will? I'm thinking a Zonda R at Spa, with the volume up. Or maybe an R500 at Donny?

Basically, exactly what Rob said. But to try and expand... You can get a massive amount of change of handling feel (that's a peculiar term in it's own right, as everyone has a different idea of it!) just by altering the geo. You can have two cars, one very benign and one very precise, on the exact same OEM setup. It very much depends on exactly what you're after. Do you want better turn in? Less slide from the rear? Less tyre wear? Stability in a straight line? Have a think. There'll be a set of numbers out there to give you that without buying other parts, unless you want/need extreme camber etc. To give you an example, my 645 is about as barge as you can get. It wafts well, but it's certainly not a sports car. That said, there's a lovely balance to the chassis with plenty of feel so I had a custom geo put on it. Plenty of toe out at the front with as much neg camber as possible, and the rear was a fraction of toe out but with the tyres standing quite upright. That turned the car from stable barge to agile GT, as the rear is now much more mobile (which is what I wanted) and the front end just turns in perfectly. Certainly. I'd be changing that before buying anything else. If you're after physical changes like softer over bumps or less roll in the corners, sadly you're going to have to cough up for extra bits. With the 350Z, I found doing the ARBs alone was quite a pleasant experience, and if that's enough then great. If not, then something like the BC Racing damper & spring set would be worth a look, as you can easily adjust the damping between road and track whilst still having the car sitting quite high up. My MR2 is a 80/20 track/road car, and much like you I don't feel the need to have it slammed to the floor as that wouldn't work on UK roads.

Midnight Blue, I think.

*facepalm* They clearly won't do, as you already found out. What if you need to make a quick manoeuvre to avoid something in the future? Is your car not worth £600? Just chuck it on a card.

You might well be surprised about the Cobra, I had the K1 on my ragtop, and it was fine. On a coupe it's horrendous because of the resonance transmitted through the shell, but the roadster doesn't have to worry about that. Now, I'm not saying go and buy a K1, but I think a Cobra or Scorpion would be absolutely fine.

Thing is, this is exactly what I mean when I warn against mixing tyres. 99% of the time you probably won't notice, but it's the 1% when everything goes wrong (and I believe that the car control and speed were equally contributing factors here) that you really don't want to be relying on an unbalanced car.

Christ on a bike, mixed ditch finders! Please, sell those on eBay and put something decent on.

Why does everyone assume that, because we have cars that are capable of speeding, that we all do it? My fun is in the corners, I care not for risking my licence by travelling quickly in a straight line.

Couple of litres at least.

I wouldn't replace the whole lot, just top up as required.

Yes, please let us know make, model and sizes.

What about the tyres? I wasn't asking to be smart, it could genuinely be a contributory factor.

You can't embed MP4 files on here, so it'll never work. Transfer it to YT and embed that instead

What wheel have you got?

No. None of the DFI engines (MY09+) have an IMS to fail. Essentially it's 9x7.2 cars and on, as the 987.2 2.7 Cayman non-S isn't a DFI engine. That's why I specifically bought the 911 I did.

Just seen it. Really glad I didn't pay for that. Tactically great from Mayweather, but really not an interesting fight to watch for the neutral.

That's an issue with all HR smart watches, and the Apple Watch is better than most at getting round it. Might be worth giving it a try in a shop?

I was tempted, but I'm really glad I didn't cough up either now.

I was going to write a long post on this, but LNE sum it up better here. So yes, aftermarket IMS options are available, not none are 100% guaranteed due to the very design of the bearing. Gets quite pricey, too! Check out the IMS Guardian by the same people for an early warning system.

It's really not that bad. 5% chance of going pop? I can live with that.

Perfect spec, that I can see.

Agreed. Utter horsecrap, my friend. I don't doubt you've suffered from racism. My point is that you cannot lay that blame solely at the door of UKIP, as you appear to be doing on here. Sure, some racists do vote UKIP, but they also voted for the other parties before UKIP existed. Racism is everywhere, if we start pointing in just one place then it will forever be there.

All assuming gen1 cars... RMS failure is common enough, unless it's horrendous then you can just live with it whilst keeping an eye on the oil level. IMS failure is the big one on the M96/97 engines. Essentially it's pot luck and unless you fancy dropping the engine and separating the 'box to replace it, then there's not a lot you can really do. My own rule of thumb is that if a car has managed to get past 80k miles then it'll probably be okay. They usually go between 40k-80k, but have been known to go outside of that. Expect a repair cost of between £5k-£10k, depending on what gets damaged when valves collide. D-chunk and bore scoring are also an issue, which is why a boroscope inspection is a MUST do before purchase. You can help prevent this by fitting a low temp stat from Hartech, very easy to do. Don't buy an auto, the 'box is crap. If you get one with 19" wheels then make sure it has PASM, as the ride is awful otherwise. You'd be better off with the 18" wheels and standard suspension, much better ride and drive, plus replacing the stock suspension with something better is cheaper Sat nav is crap, actively avoid that and the Bose stereo as replacing that with aftermarket is mega bucks due to the MOST wiring. Sport seats should be a must-have too as the standard seats aren't very supportive. Just do not buy without an inspection. Far too big a risk on these cars IMHO.

Did any UKIP member do any of that, then?