Ekona

Tbh you'll be lucky if all they do is ban you for a year: At that speed, there's a good argument for a DD charge IMHO. If it were me, I'd be selling the car, buying a decent suit, and planning my grovelling speech to the letter. Where was it, out of curiosity? I know the area well, chuck a map up if you can.

HEATHEN!!! You're right though, M badges should only be on M cars, I've said it myself often enough in the past so I should hold myself to the same standard.

Sorry! I'm nothing if not honest!

What was the speed? Do you have any reason to doubt the accuracy of the measurement? EDIT And what was the speed limit in force at the time? Also weather conditions, road conditions etc. Let's have all the facts, see what we can do for you

No stickers for me. Think I prefer the red as well, seems to match the car more than the blue.

I know, I hate it too, and I would remove the badge if I could. That would mean killing the resale value of the wheel though, and it's something I don't expect to lose money on when it comes to selling up if I keep it as is. Still, at least there's no M badges on the outside!

Sodding cat gets everywhere...

It's like night and day with the stock wheel and this. It's a proper thickness but not silly thick, and the leather is MUCH better quality than the original wheel. It's basically mint, this was an utter bargain. Can't wait to get this fitted at the weekend!

I still fancy the occasional one, even after nearly 8 years smoke free.

It's not yet, but it bloody well will be!

Because it knows the capacity, it knows what air is coming in, it knows the timing, it knows the AFR... Maybe power was the wrong word. It'll put the mixture back to within a set specification, either via the TB or via the timing most likely. Either way, you end up back at square one. You've not commented on my offer yet.

I refuse to do your homework for you mate I also suspect that unless I come out with twenty threads then you're going to call it a one off, regardless. There's plenty of info on this both here and across the pond, or you could ring a professional and ask them too. Fine, tell you what, I'll pay for the ENTIRE second dyno for you. All you have to do is get the exhaust and a dyno pull for that, which you would do anyway as a matter of course, so to prove this one way or another is now literally going to cost you absolutely nothing. I really cannot be fairer than that. It's not just me here, is it? Am I being totally unreasonable chaps?!

Great link, all sorted now, thanks guys! Grabbed a handful of random flavours too so at least he can try it on the day, even if he only figures out what he hates

Still too big mate, needs to be a proper pen one with no bulbous bit at the bottom. I'll check that link out now Andy, ta.

He says he's not an idiot. I believe that ad proves otherwise.

Because it's designed to work within set parameters, so it reduces power to make sure it doesn't go pop I guess. There's no logical reason, it's just what Nissan chose to do. Not sure why you have a hard time comprehending this, it's not like Nissan are the only car company to do this. Tell you what, if you're so unconvinced by literally everyone here telling you the same thing, prove it for yourself. Get an exhaust put on and a dyno done there and then, then go back a month later for another dyno assuming you've done a reasonable amount of miles by then, and report back. Tell you what, I'll chip in with 50% of the second dyno cost just so no-one thinks it's been fudged or whatever. How does that sound?

Oops, missed your reply GMB, cheers dude Definitely going to take everyone's advice and take him to a shop to get his liquids I think, but I'd also still like to buy him the actual kit to open on the day. He wants a proper pen rather than a big lumpy thing so your link is out Grundy, soz. Can any one just point me to a great starter pack with a couple of batteries and coils included, budget about £40? Needs to look vaguely smart so black or stainless or similar please. Sorry, I know I'm being all me-me-me but I have absolutely zero idea what I'm looking at, and would rather someone just recommended something to me as I trust you guys on here.

Iron X isn't a wheel cleaner, it's a fallout remover. I use Envy Evolution as a wheel cleaner, and follow it up with Envy Iron Awe which I found to be a touch more aggressive in removal than Iron X itself. I've also used Espuma Revolution as well, which is just as good as the Envy stuff but more expensive. As for wheel brushes, I've tried a few but the EZ Detail brush is my go-to brush of choice. I keep smaller brushes handy for the details on the wheel, but that baby is just awesome.

Agreed, could well just open the TB less to restrict it I guess.

Twister?

I think you're misunderstanding what actually happens. Sure, breathing mods DO add power, but only if you remap for them to fool the stock ECU. Much like Lotus ECUs, when the 350 realises it's doing more than it should, it does some electrickery within itself and backs things off until it's making the exact same power it should be. It's likely a timing thing as that's easy to do rather than aiming for AFRs I would imagine (that's my own take on it), but however it does mean that in just a couple of weeks you'll be back exactly where you started. An Uprev remap or aftermarket ECU cancels all that out, and will let you keep the gains you've got. It's not the mods we're questioning, it's the stock ECU.

Makes me hate them when you go to their regular gas stations and you casually see 95MON by the pumps as if it's the most normal thing in the world. That would be the equivalent of seeing 105RON in Asda petrol stations over here...!

87 is the US equivalent to our 95, and their 91 is our 98. MON vs RON and all that, and allowing for adjustment in the figures.

Dems got some reel purdy crude oils in dem dere Camelford hills, boy.

Believe what you want. If you're that bothered, go and test it yourself.