Ekona

Turbo is very different from SC in the drive. Most people prefer one or the other, so an SC may not suit your needs. Tbh if the car is stock then you really need to be doing the suspension, brakes, clutch & fly etc before thinking of going FI, else you're not even close to maximising the investment. And at that point, I'd be seriously considering if it's worth it as £10K+ is a lot to drop on a 350. You could get a seriously quick pre-turboed car for that + whatever you get for yours, if ultimately you feel you want more power.

What exactly is a 'stage 3' then?

Better the car you know than the car you don't.

Blurgh

Again, it's other people that are the problem. That's the unknown factor. Without them you could bumble around at 10mph everywhere and drive as cautious as you like, but that's not the real world.

The car at 6'50", what's the reg? The grey car to the left at 7'01", what's the reg? The green Xsara at 7'32", what's the reg? This is the point I'm making. Not stalking you tonight btw, you're just making interesting posts I want to comment on

So consistently wrong is better than possibly correct? Nah, the analogue one doesn't differ by that much unless you're going from being 4' tall and sitting two inches from the wheel to 7' and laying down drug dealer stylee! It's just an ordinary car, the angles do not differ by that much that it makes any difference whatsoever.

It's not your driving you need to worry about, it's other people. If someone does something unexpected and you need to make a sudden move, that's when you're going to get caught out. Nobody wants to say I told you so, we're not like that here. We'd much rather prevent the incident in the first place. If you're not driving the car then that's fine, but please ensure you get the tyres sorted before you consider driving anywhere other than directly to get the black round things keeping you in contact with the road changed.

And you think the digital speedo is that accurate? Brave man Chuck a TomTom in your car and you can have three speedos all saying something different. Which one do you trust?

A dashcam is only as good as the quality of the footage it provides. If you can't identify a numberplate in the dark with it, then it's useless. This is why I ended up with a Blackvue. Pricey yes, but the quality of the footage day or night is superb and leaves me in no doubt that I could happily rely on it in court. Plus the software package on both PC and iOS is extremely comprehensive. Personally, I would rather spend another £100 and get something I can rely on then have an accident with crappy footage and curse myself for not spending the extra whilst paying out £1000 for repairs.

Please tell me you've at least got tyres on order?

Outside temp for me. For more useful than speed IMHO.

Ah, so it came up twice. Seems sensible then. Same corner, same speed etc? Always check the level after filling, don't just go on what's left in the bottle. Just in case!

Oil won't have caused it. Why do you think you needed more, if you only just changed it? Personally I'd have cleared the code, gone out again and given it an Italian tune up to see what happened.

Was it raining? Or particularly cold?

Some of us prefer to drive our cars

No. Not in the slightest.

Stuffed crust gets my vote

You couldn't be more wrong if you tried. The M96/97 engines do not score up over night, that's just preposterous nonsense Failure rate is roughly 10% if you take the averages, and a carefully warmed up engine given full beans at the appropriate points will likely be fine. IMS failure is more haphazard, however later ones have proven resilient or you could just put the LNE kit in and be done with it. Add a third rad and the LTT, and the engine should be fine for many miles. DFI units are not scoring any more than any other engine in the world (I can only assume you're referring to Baz's post the other week), including the ones in the Zeds. Gearboxes are strong as anything, and certainly stronger than the many issues we've seen in the 350. Tiptronic and PDK 'boxes have proven themselves tough, too. I mean, if you're going to criticise them then criticise them on the costs to repair if things go wrong, but at least understand what you're talking about before you label the 9x7 cars as unreliable. I said get an inspection first, and yes, if the bores are showing signs of damage then walk away. As long as that's all good, then you end up with the finest sportscars sensible money can buy.

A poppadom on the FL?! Man, every one KNOWS you only ever put Indian cuisine on the driven wheels! I dunno, bloody amateurs.

Except for 'bae'. That word is detestable.

987B/C is very reliable, and day to day running costs (including servicing) are equivalent to the 370. It's just when they do go wrong, they go very wrong. As long as you get an inspection done, you'll be fine. Boroscope is vital though.

Ultimately are you going to find anything cheaper with the same performance and the same age that's going to be any more reliable, or any cheaper to replace bits than a 370? I'm not sure you would, so you're already taking the safe option by considering one. Buy from a dealer, get a full inspection done by a specialist before purchase, and I reckon that's about as safe as you'd need to be.

No reason we can't educate people on both the Zed and the English language

Realistically, I don't think you will ever be comfortable in a 370Z if you're going to spend all your time worrying about what could break. I'd suggest looking at cheaper cars, where you can afford to replace the big bits without losing sleep over it.