Ekona

Not a cat in hell’s chance. Damaged does not mean broken, as then you could claim on your insurance for anything and everything, including grenaded engines etc. If anyone is successful in claiming for this, I’ll pay their £100 excess myself!

Nissan themselves say that the issue is down to wear and tear, so this insurance policy wouldn't pay out for that. It's not a warranty, it's meant to fix things when thieves try and steal your car. Tbh every single insurance policy covers the exact same thing anyway, which is general damage by vandalism or theft, so whilst it's a nice idea any one buying a JL policy on the basis of claiming for this is going to be sorely disappointed methinks. Plus it's going to affect your claims history, something most folks want to avoid. Unless, of course, you could somehow lose the entire steering lock mechanism, as it clearly says that it'll replace it in that case...

Demon tweeks have pretty much exclusive sales in the R888R (note the extra R) these days. Just checked and they’re in stock right now. Tried Camskill, Black Circles etc? Where are you looking?

R888R in 235/40 and either 265/35 or 275/35 will do you just fine. 285 rear is really excessive unless you're running massive power, especially on track rubber where you've got masses of extra grip anyway. Tbh, if you're running track rubber then you'll likely want to be running with the TCS off anyway, which makes the debate redundant. FWIW, I used to run 225/40 and 245/40 R888 on my old car and never had issues, nor a lack of grip

The trick is to keep the % rolling radius difference between front and rear the same as OEM. Do that and you should be fine. For track, I wouldn’t look further than the R888R if 18”.

I would've thought so, as you're not really limited by where you put the batteries (assuming they're flat rather than boxy) so you'd probably lay them all out on the floorpan. Would do wonders for dynamics as well, keeping the weight down that low. Just a shame they weigh so much right now.

I've no doubt that one day I'll own/rent/hire an EV. It'll be for the daily grind, where the car drives itself and I can eat breakfast or read the paper or snooze away. That's the goal, that's where an EV can beat anything else. On the weekend, I'm firing up my ICE car and enjoying every last noise, smell and odd shaking through the steering wheel on right hand bends at 40mph that I have to diagnose myself.

Did I ever mention that I quite like Porsches? FWIW before this gets locked, whilst I do still think that one single EV thread would work best right now (at least until we have many more options available to discuss) and can see where JP is coming from, I'm also aware that GZ hasn't been quite as *ahem* 'vocal' on the subject in this thread as we've had in others.

To fit the RB kit, you have to cut them. A few months between shouldn’t make much difference, however I’d put something over the rust to stop it getting any worse at least. If you decide not to RB the car, then you can get them done properly.

Is it still that crappy wasteland from last series?

If you’re cutting the arches, then rust is a bit irrelevant

Is thraping an EV round a track not like watching your favourite film with the sound on mute? Sure, you still get the core event, but you remove something very visceral from the entire experience.

It was a handbag, h’actually. I needed a new handbag.

I wasn’t far off then Doesn’t seem horrendous to have an official sticker, but are there no trustworthy local garages you could go to instead? No real value in staying with main dealers at 100k+.

Which Christmas?

Every other DC wheel I’ve seen (like the M3 ones) are proper shiny, these just look the same colour all over to my dodgy eyes.

I’ll stick my neck out and say they don’t look diamond cut to me, but then I’m notoriously rubbish at these things

It doesn’t. Just upload the pic directly to the forum

Couple of hundred for the service, another hundred for the gearbox, and fifty for the tracking. All ish.

You're thinking of the BP23: This is the P15. The BP23 will be centre-driven.

It’s a Halfords special without a special drivetrain, I genuinely don’t get the love for it. Of course it’ll be fast and drive well, but no kid is going to put that on their bedroom wall. It’s just a terrible, terrible design. Cars can be very fast and look good too, they’re not mutually exclusive.

That'll be fine. Some brands are better than others, but in general as long as it's not Magnatec then it's good enough.

Alignment/geo should be done annually at the very least.

He means the turbos supply the engine with 8psi of pressurised air as per APS spec, which is 0.55bar given that 1 bar is 14.7psi. Big engines don’t really need massive amounts of boost to create big power, generally it’s diesels and small engines that run little turbos that run at high boost pressures to supply enough air. Any open vacuum line isnt isn’t a good thing at all, best case you’ll loose pressure and worst case you’ll run lean. Get it plugged off ASAP until you can figure it out.

Lols at the PH guys calling this ‘The Homer’ and ‘The Bruno’