docwra

Strange the ref legged it off the pitch without shaking any hands either - I stood to make £70 from a tenner on that one, Id like to hear what he has to say. Likewise with Wales, that cost me £40, damn late tries. I nearly turned £2 into £80 on France though (bet NZ would win by 50+ at 40/1) but had them winning by 40-50 at 16/1 as well, and managed to win a few bob on Argentina, despite betting in play and forgetting Id paused the match so was 25 minutes behind, I wondered why the odds were so good

Having had a "spirited drive" with a Lambo Gallardo a while back Id say a remapped 335d would probably be quicker in mid range, they are fierce.

Tell him to remove whatever is stuck under the accelerator pedal then To be fair I hate race threads but my old modified DE was the same as my mates 135M. And to the OP of this thread, put some proper petrol in and come back to us! Im not talking race thread, I owned both, at the same time. And test drove an M135i and an M235i. And had M135i hire cars for a week at a time. Trust me, theyre quicker, more noticeably at the top end but the 1 series 1/4 time is nearly a second quicker, thats a lot.

Ive said it many times, but standard calipers, standard discs, braided lines and the best pads you can afford (Carbon Lorraine RC5 IMO) are as good as youll ever need, even if you are doing track work. Change the fluid out for something decent and youre away, no need for new discs

You dont need a solicitor (and the cost), you can just return the car, get your money back and move on. I did it on an Evo where the bottom end went 2 hours after buying it, its in the Sale of Goods act.

Awesome cars, my brother had an MR FQ 320 VIII and we tested plenty of VI, VII's as well, much enjoyable You need FSH from Ralliart dealer particularly for the anti yaw unit, and a service every 3K is a killer, Id have bought his from him and would be ripping about in it now otherwise. Get a good one, keep the miles off and youll make money too

Buy one, theyre great. Everything else has been covered

I'm not one of those plan ahead people Dude, this is planning ahead. "Not planning ahead" would be opening the engine up and replacing what needs to be replaced. Anyway, this starting to feel like herding cats, count me as another that tried but gave up eventually

If you are rebuilding to the level where youre looking at replacing rods and pistons youd be mad not to forge IMO, the costs are (probably) not that different between them and it gives you the option to go MASSIVE POWER for the future. Even if you dont go FI Id imagine a forged VQ35 would see around £1000 premium over a stock one as more and more people look into turbos. Id also advise changing big end shells, oil pump and waterpump while youre in there, the rest is up to you

Its relativity straight forward Id hate to see what you call complicated Immense effort though, and fascinating reading, keep up the good work (that Im never even going to contemplate doing myself)

Im as much of an ITR fan as anyone .......... but SRSLY? Ive driven a DC2 and no, just no.

So hang on, round your way people confuse 350Z's for Porsches and prefer Nissans to R8's? *notices user location* Oh, fair enough, carry on A Zed is a fine looking (and sounding) car, but a 100K supercar it is not.

Even the ones based on Honda Civic's, who most agree are superb little cars? My old man had a 216 SLi, and IIRC it was quicker and handled better than the Golf Gti we also had at the time, I know the later sporty models were a decent drive too

The really painful bit of that vid is that is when the passenger (who I believe had a license) is telling the driver to slow down, he knew what was coming Even minimal experience on the road teaches you that it doesnt work like Forza

OK, Ill help out - you wont need a gasket kit like that if its stem seals but you will if its rings. See the problem?

You know the difference? Then why dont you go buy a compression tester and find out for yourself? Sorry mate, but your either not sure what youre talking about or your just here to waste peoples time.

Aaaand you want to boost at some point, which IMO is only worth doing with uprated internals, and possible headwork too. You want more than my wife does man! OK, serious Q here - have you actually looked inot the difference between replacing stem seals and piston rings? Hint: It might be worth at least familiarising yourself with the processes before making a decision, there is a fairly big difference between the two.

Aye, Ive had two done, wouldnt even waste the time picking phone up to main dealer

Yeah but i'd rather this guy build my engine, i've seen what he can do and i want boost eventually. 12 posts in and you only just think to mention this? Is this some kind of secret aptitude test? If the engine hasnt been opened yet and you dont know what you want to do with it then your question doesnt have an answer.

Got to be honest, I think it was more the not having any driving experience and doing 90mph through a town but I guess that doesnt make such a good headline. RIP.

As Ekona has said, the RE040 is a bit pants, the RE050A is a good second place IMO but the MPSS is better and not a lot more money. Trust me, Ive had all three.

Was it the Cayman? Dont have 30 minutes right now ........

Tyreleader saved me £100 over camskill last time round as well, good recommendation

Painless for road use, but Torsen style, doesnt work the same as a 1.5 or 2 way. I definitely prefer a proper diff, but then I like going sideways

No, the Kaaz is noisy and harsh, the GT Pro you dont even notice is there. If I was wanting a track diff then the Kazz would do, but for a roadcar the GT Pro is the boy