djtimo

Cracking , man after my own heart! Keep going!

Good straight answer this... -2.5 may be too much if running big power. Im at -1.5 rear camber. This will get you somewhere close. Corner weight will also help keep the car feeling nice in both left and right handers.

Great up grades! Any real detailed feed back on the KAAZ diff?? Where did you get the diff from?? Cost?? Who built it up? Any feed back on track yet??

First day of 2017 testing the car yesterday at a VERY wet anglesey! The car has been fitted with a new Rad, Fans, Gearbox, Twin plate clutch and fly wheel and some new Nankang AR1 front tires. Anglesey was run by Javelin trackdays and we used the GP circuit in the AM and moved to the shorter costal circuit in the PM. I had been looking at tire temps trying to work out the best pressure for the day and settled on 32PSI hot all round. This still gave me 3-4 C hotter on the inner edge on the fronts showing I need more camber but thats coming ASAP. Dampers I have found a decent setting for on rebound and compression for the dampers that gave me a fighting chance in the very wet conditions, Still had basically zero grip but a fun day until 4pm when I had brake failure at about 80 mph! I hit the brakes hard while having a good little battle with an MX5 racecar slowed down maybe 20mph before the pedal went fully soft and straight to the floor! I thought it was terrible brake fade and pumped the pedal like crazy! Turned of the track onto the grass with handbrake on and down the gears quickly, Lucky to no have hit the car in front or anything solid! Back into the pits checked the car over and found I had lost level from the brake fluid res, checked all callipers and nipples and no visual leaks. Jacked the car up and pulled the front wheels, the driver side brake flex had worked through the P clip and managed to touch the inside of the wheel rim! This had rubbed through the outer coating, and the SS brained flex! I have emailed HEL brake lines, and stated what had happened was not a manufacturing defect but they have said they will help me out and send me a new set of front lines free of charge! What great service! If i can get the brakes bleed and back in action Ill be out testing in the dry hopefully on the 7th March at donning ton park Another good point was the car run a good chunk cooler with the new rad, peak temps hitting 210F after an 18 minute session. This is still not perfect testing as the rain meant i was not really revving past about 5k RPM shorts shining trying to reduce wheel spin.

So a little more progress! Gearbox all painted up and clear coated! Looking nice and clean! So i finally had a day spare to work on the nissan. I didn't take many pics as i just wanted the job done but basically I removed the old broken box. Pulled the old clutch and flywheel. (Clutch still looked in good nick!) Old box out! Excuses the rust... that will be sorted this year! New shiny box ready to go in! New flywheel and clutch being fitted. New pressure plate going on. All good so far! Took me and a mate about 7hrs total taking our time and cleaning the trans runner etc. The new clutch bits very hard but needs bedding in badly, the clutch was also very high on engagement so i have adjusted the bite point and made this a far chunk lower now so feeling a lot better. CD009 has no grinds and feels just as it should so far (i've only driven about 15 miles so far though)

Obviously your gonna paint the gearbox while its out! or is that just me?? lol

Finally had a day to start the gearbox work! Sitting on pallet all dirty! All excess bits were removed including harmonic balancer weight and breather tubes. Cleaned for 2 hrs with wire brush and drill attachments, followed by hot water and brillig pads, then a final wipe down with clutch cleaner to degrease ready for paint. All masked up. Fist coat of etch primer on!

A few mate's of mine is out in LA at the moment reviewing these with a massive gang of other Youtubers, rave reviews so far!

Suspension is a personal preference, therefore one may prefer a brand to another. As far as I am concern, I am happy with that the long as the customers are happy with what they have. One thing I will however point out is that MeisterR are not cheap Chinese stuff with a different colour and a nice stickers, because we are one of the few brand that actually have our own workshop, research & development, and manufacturing capability in the UK. Even for the entry level ZetaCRD, the internal valving specification are designed by us. We engineered the internal valving specification in house at our workshop in Essex along with our in-house technical partner Black Art Design (BAD). The internal valving are unique to MeisterR, all information disclosed to our production are protected under a non-disclosure agreement. What that mean is even the factory's own product could not use our data, and therefore you will not find another suspension on the market with the same specs as MeisterR. The ZetaCRD use thicker damper Shafter compare to most dampers on the market, and thus create a stronger damper unit. Even something as simple as our locking collars were engineered by us and is currently under a UK patent pending status. As far as the GT1 goes, we use a lot of CNC internal parts that are engineered and machined in house. The CNC damper shaft seal we use on the GT1 are rated to 400 bars of pressure (a typical damper would not exceed 40 bars). You can call up AST, Nitron, Penske, Moton, and see who actually use such high quality CNC shaft seals, and I can say most of them won't. The only company I can think of that use CNC shaft seal is some of the top end rally suspension such as Reiger. The GT1 also comes with a custom made progressive rate bump stop. This bump stop are designed to mechanically crush and then materially crush. The starting rate is 6lbf and goes up to 400lbf over 70% of it's crush travel; that mean you can engage your bump stop and not even know it. All this is to create a better ride quality and vehicle dynamics over other suspension. While I do understand that there have been MANY suspension brands on the market that honestly have no clue about suspension, as they just buy what is available from a factory and put a sticker on with pretty colour. MeisterR is an exception to that rule, because we actually design our specification and get factory to manufacture what we engineered. Many suspension can look similar to MeisterR on the outside, but the inside as well as the performance is guarantee to be different. Just thought I put up some info to clear the cloud, as we put in a lot more work to our suspension than just pick a pretty colour and print a nice looking sticker. Jerrick Can you post up the damper curves for each click of adjustment for these please?? Shame you don't offer double adjustable versions.

Rob you know I'm on KW V3's and i love them for road use but on track there just sprung to softly. Quality is excellent though.

Just pull your brake fuse and you can do this lol

HAHA this is a sink in the Utility room Sink in the kitchen is a nice black composite one! lol.. Stainless steel is better for washing car parts too hahahah

Few more goodies have arrived and are waiting to be fitted soon... Z1 motorsport race version camber arms SPL aluminium subframe bushes Z1 motorsport alu diff bushes ARP extended studs for the rear axel

Ive run adware virus scanner and deleted everything that threw up. I use my computer fpr work and it has thousands of files i dont knownwhat they are... Lol Ill do more digging on it tonoght.

Any one have an tips on removing adware from a 2014 mbp?? Ive somehow downloaded a ad ware virus

Little update! Sexy new clutch has arrived from Ash Robb! Xtreme 200mm sprung twin plate ceramic (Thats a mouth full lol) Along with a CD009 Gearbox which is on its way to me from Jon @ emperor tuning! Need to get this lot fitted ASAP when GB arrives and get the car on track!

Adrian flux.. My car has every mod declared and is less than 400 quid!

With out reading all the responses I would say your better off using an oil cooler with an electric fan (Ie. drifting has crap air flow) and thicker oil weight Ie. 10w-40 or so to help with pressure drop. Baffled sump is need for issues with oil slosh if you have drops in oil pressure when driving.

CD00A is the newest gearbox code. I think its the same box as CD009

As the title states I'm after a good condition CD009/CD00A gearbox to fit a 2003 DE motor 350z. Thanks.

So yesterday as i could not drive the car I made a start on fitting my new passenger seat! OEM passenger seat was removed. I have used a steel seat base on the driver side but this is 4KG!! Passenger side is flat and easier to fab some Alu seat rails that weight a lot less and cost £12! Started with 2 x 800mm 1/4" flat bar stock. Bar cut down to length and drilled for mount points and front tip bent. Both rails mounted. OBP Alu side mounts bolted on.. Seat in place! OEM Seat weight 20.2kg New seat with mounts 12.2kg Weight loss for this = 8.00KG TOTAL WEIGHT LOSS SO FAR = 81.53KG DRY CAR WEIGHT = 1398.34KG

4th gear pull... http://s97.photobucket.com/user/djtimodj/media/Mobile%20Uploads/VID_40860619_134836_zpstieowuqz.mp4.html?o=0

More progress this week and a large step backwards too So after the Rad pack and fans have been fitted the car was MOT'ed and taxed to allow me to drive to the tuners (TDi North) to have the map checked over as i suspected it was a little lean. Car arrived at TDi and was strapped down! Not much clearance on the splitter! Mapping. Few dyne plots. We did over 60 miles on the dyne and about 12-15 proper runs. So after a few test runs the car looked fine for fuel at full throttle but partial throttle (Ie. mid corner on track) was quite lean. The up rev set up is quite basic and does not allow live mapping so Mark@Abbey emailed my original map to TDi that allowed them to tweak the map before refreshing the ECU. The car after mapping was 5-7bhp down on before but running in a safer place for getting hot on track. The car did 505.6bhp in 4th and 553bhp in 5th gear on power runs. Car ran nice and smooth with issues and we also changed the cooling fan cut in temp in the ECU so the fans start running at 90C vs. the OEM 100C cut in point. So Now for the step backwards.... driving home about a mile off my house, I ran the car through 1st-2nd-3rd gear and just around 5k rpm in 3rd gear the car banged very loudly and lost drive. put it into 4th and all OK again... Slip back into 3rd which now had sync issues and let the clutch up caused massive banging and popping. 3rd gear is toast So now Im on the look out for a new CD00A/CD009 gear box to replace this one with! Thats Novembers trackways out the window!!

Any update

Thanks man