djtimo

Great shot mate, brave flying a drone over such a lovely car What program do you use for editing? I'm trying to learn Premiere Pro at the mo. Editing is mainly done on FCPX and PP/AE I really like the speed at which you can put an edit together in FCPX.

Thanks again lads. The over the car sjot was done on an drone. If i get to the awards night ill try my best to get some tickets for the guys/girls on here.. 😎

Thanks guys!!! 👌

Thanks lads! Need another 65 votes to get it in the lead.. Very late entry so other videos have had a few extra weeks on line to get voted on!! 👌

Guys if you can take a minute of your time to follow the link below and help vote up a film i have made that is entered into the London Motor Film Festival that would be amazing. Follow the link.... Click on posts... Video will show up with a button in the bottom left... Click this and it will go orange to show you have voted!! Thats it! https://www.carthrottle.com/user/a2j3v8y/ Thanks for the help!

Very interested in this.... May be a winner on a FI motor!! Waiting for details!

I need to get it on a dyno and get a map tweek for sure. Im hoping this will reduce temps a small amount. Water injection is high on the list too.. Not looking to map for extra power just spray water/meth for extra cooling and det protection

Im not too hopeful tbh as i may need a much larger rad for track work. Im still waiting to hear back off zmanalex on his motor set up to see what i can doo to mine. I do think richeing up the afr 0.5 points from 11.5 down to 11 may help along with the extra air flow and low temp stat maaaaaay help. Also looking at water injection etc etc. This is if the hg has not gone tho....

All back together mate but still may have overheat issues. need to do some logging on the road.

Japspeed mate... stay well clear... Im on a full stainless torque solutions now and its MILES better...

UPDATE... So to continue on with my cooling issues I gone ahead and pulled the koyo rad and AC condenser along with the AC compressor and swapped in a new mishmoto low temp thermostat. Low temp stat.. Testing the new stat.... Im not fitting this to find out it does not work lol... Started to open around 70C on my tests... Said 68C on stat. After i was happy with the stat working well It was time to strip the rad out. OEM Fans were very difficult to remove due to clearance issues with APS TT pipework. I ended up cutting a small section out the OEM fan shroud plastic to get it out. Rad out! AC condenser out. Some fouling on the AC condenser so this will have been reducing air flow to the coolant rad. Kyoto rad was cleaned externally and back flushed with a hose to was out any deposits. View down where the rad pack used to sit. Thermostat and AC compressor out.... AC compressor put up a fight due to bad access but I won the battle lol.. AC out... Lots of room infront of the block with this lot out. New thermostat in place.. Sealed with an poem gasket and some new RTV silicon gasket. Car was then rebuilt, Bled using a funnel in the rad with front end up on a jack and massaging the rad hoses, all buttoned up and warmed up. Job went well! So i thought.... It was running rough as hell... After a short test drive (i though I may have had a wet connector) it was still bad. I ended up pulling all the plugs, swapping coil packs over, swapped all coil packs and plugs bank to bank and still not better!!! Long story short was i had got cylinder 4/6 coil pack leads the wrong way round.... STUPID lol... All sorted now and car running well.... Just waiting for a cider cable to come in the post to do some data logging,

Yeas mate, 25 Row Mocal with good size -12 line to it. Oil I may be able to cool a little better with some more direct airflow via cutting another row of holes in the bumper.

Palmer sport day or see if you can het a day in a bac mono.. I drove a mono a few weeks back and it was incredible.

Yeah i need to add a bit of fuel across the board i would have thought. Oil temps are a max of 120-122C, turbos are water cooled yes.

Bit of GoPro footage from anglesey Watching coolant temps very of putting too

Ill drop him a PM and see if there is any thing else i need to look at Yeah I know but i need to test that again when the car is done with a new thermostat.

Oil 120c if on decent... may be 125-130c if you happy doing frequent oil changes. Coolant I would try and say below when the OEM fans come on full at 213F... 225F the poem gauge starts to rise above half way. Sorry for F instead of C but thats what my US spec OBD reader is in...

More work today on my overheating issues.... I did a coolant Burp with a spill free funnel from the rad to see if I ha any air trapped in the coolant system. I did have a very small amount but nothing major... I think this is fro letting the expansion tank run empty tbf. I did some testing with the fans and swirl system. Ran the car from cold with the swirl cap off... Checked coolant flows back from turbo and rad, Turbo's retuned fine after they had warmed up but the rad did not return from the degassing line back to the swirl tank? I need to speak to Mark@abbey about this. I changed the swirl rad cap out for a new 1.3bar Carbing cap I had as a spare. Fans on the car cycled as the should, driver side fan running slow from 180F ish both fans on full at 213F and off again at 197F. I took the car out and gave it some on the road, all fine under normal load and brisk road driving but I lapped a set of roundabouts on very quite industrial estate to build temp in the coolant doing 2-3-4th gear pulls back to back and coolant got to 225F with in 4-5 mins and OEM gauge started to come off the mid point. One thing i did see was the car went from 185F-195/197F ish in a single 2-3-4th gear pull? It cools off in 10-15 seconds but that seams fast to me? Home from testing I made a start on pulling the plugs. Strut brace removed and mad pipe removed. Found a small issue here too.. Boost line to my boost solenoid had rubbed through.. This will have meant i was just on waste gate pressure I would have thought? Coil pack removed. All the Coils and plugs from the passenger side... Cylinder at front of motor near rad.. Middle. Back. All 3 plugs.. White electrodes from reading up indicate running Hot/Lean... I know the motor is running hot and my map from abbey has always been on the leaner side IMHO targeting 11.5AFR. I need to pull the other 3 plugs and see if any show signs of a blown or leaking head gasket tomorrow. If all plugs look the same ie. Hot/Lean Im fitting a low temp thermostat when it comes from Ebay and ill flush the rad out. Next moves are re-test the car for issues, Possibly have the map adjusted at TDI North (abbey north) to make it a little richer. More like 10.8-11AFR and see if that helps. If its still overheating I need a compression/leakdown test and pressure test the coolant system to check HG. Fingers crossed it not a HG leak as this a very costly on the zed and will be a motor out job Ill update as soon as i know more.

Yeah ben im up for getting a single can system sorted.

So yesterday after giving the car a painting on track was a check over and see if i can cure this overheating issue finally. Car up on axle stands first! I fitted my other set of ARP wheel studs that came through from tarmac sportz. No pics as its the same as the other side I started by removing the APS over flow tank. Drained out and it had some crap in... I believe this is because it breaths to atmosphere and sucks dust in and out ? This has been washed out and refitted now. I am looking to do a rad flush with deionised water asap just to make sure though. Another little issue is the breather catch can sight glass is leaking and blowing oil mist out. Im thinking of changing to a new system that uses no PCV valve and bigger lines with a single can vented to atmosphere. This may help reduce my oil consumption as it reduces crank case pressure and helps blow by and turbo seals.

Epic day in the car on Monday at Anglesey I was filming an invite only un-silenced supercar day and took the nissan along... Filling up with some nice V-Power on the way to the circuit. Managed about 6hrs on track which was great for free! I have some go pro footage which i sort out and upload soon too. The car did very well again apart from my overheating issues...Running the heater on full and not having windows that open make the cabin very hot .... lol... Temp strip on the transmission tunnel was reading over 55C!! When your passenger sports the track side tog lol.... The car did well against the big boys too having some great battles with a 745bhp SC V10 R8 (4 laps right on each other before he gave in!)a McLaren 650s (this was faster in the straights and better on the brakes than me)this gain a few car lengths a lap but if the driver cocked up i caught him up quickly and new 991 GT3. Nice shot from a mate who is a pro tog at the end of the day on the top end of the circuit. Another major highlight for me was to get a 16 laps in a BAC Mono My mate is there test driver and BAC brought one along to show off to potential customers so I managed to blag a go These are just over 500Kg 305bhp with aero and air shifted sequential gearbox! A real weapon! Being talked through how to get it in gear Clutch for first gear then no clutch after that Woooo Quick shot out on track.. The mono was amazing. Gearbox was unbelievable, brakes and grip were staggering central driving position is great and the feeling of you head in the wind just adds to the experience hugely. I WANT ONE.....

shame mate, you'll get it sorted in the end... VQ = @*!# loads of cash to build right!

Coming along well mate!!! Epic work on the diy carbon! 👌

More work on the nissan today! I have been looking at tire options for getting more grip over the current R888 set up and I have two options. Switch to larger tire size, or more to a better tire i.e. slicks. Slick put a large amount of stress on the car through high lateral loads so one of the upgrades that I have been told is needed is to use high strength wheel studs. ARP extended wheel studs have a great reputation so I have gone with these. These also allow me to use a 5mm slip on spacer to widen the front track if I need to. Tarmac sportz supplied me with the studs to replace the front wheels with today. To fit these the old studs need to be removed from the hub, there is a few ways to do this but i was advised the easier option was to just knock them out with a lump hammer! A few knocks and there out! Just use an old wheel nut to protect the thread incase you ever need them again! Stud removed. New vs. Old To fit the new studs slip them into place and add a few decent size waters to the front of the hub along with an open ended wheel nut. I used an impact gun to then wind the stud splines home. All fitted and wheel back on. Next job on the list was to try and make a start in controlling my cooling on the motor. I have always had the car running hot on track but since fitting my splitter the cooling has got significantly worse. Anglesey a few weeks back I was only able to get a warm up lap 5 hot laps in before my OBD reader alarm was going off at 230F followed by the OEM coolant gauge at 235f starting to rise quickly! I could get more laps before this happened by running the heater on full HOT but this is a nightmare in a ca with no windows and reshot metal from the exhaust and gearbox making the cabin extremely hot. My thinking is the splitter has removed the front section of the z speed under tray and left a decent size gap at the bottom of the intercooler which is allowing cool air from the grill to bypass the rad stack and exit under the car. Solution I hope is to duct the air from the gril into the intercooler which will force air via the AC condenser into coolant rad. Fab'ed this from all sheet i have in the garage test fitted. Brushed to clean it up with steel wool. Weather sealing strip added to seal off against the IC. Riveted on to the splitter supports. Gaps sealed with duct tape for now. Hard to see but now its sealed to the IC. Im hoping this helps a lot or the next stage is to look at adding pusher fans that are on a manual switch for when the car i on track.

350z driver side is a pita isint it.. Im thinking of cutting that lump in the trans tunnel out to get the seat lower. I did have mine off set to avoid it but hate the off set feel from the driver seat.