D350z

Thank you

Hi all, I'm on my third 350z (I love them so much) I have an Azure Blue convertible from 2007. The last with the original engine. In my service booklet it states the timing belt needs changing every 5 years or 50,000 miles. Other folk suggest there is no timing belt and it's a chain. My car has done 34,000 miles and is 10 years old. Should I just ignore my service booklet that came with the car. Thank you in anticipation.

That is the problem. My original head unit was dead. Is there a way to kill the speed volume control after? Shorting the signal wire to earth or cutting it off etc? That must be my problem. Thanks for the nudge.

I get the same. It's as if the Nissan amp is pumping the gain with relation to engine revs and road speed. This in turn drives a lot of hiss to the speakers. Does anyone have a suggestion, diagnosis or a solution?

What head unit do you have? and are the nav and bluetooth part of the same unit or separate units?

I just wish we could get the pictures back for this guide. Without them it is very difficult to follow

This is a great guide thank you. It is even more important as the pictures have disappeared on the previous pinned guides. I'm doing my own install of a Pioneer AVIC-F980BT this weekend but into an 07 (facelift) roadster. I'll be fitting the GPS aerial too

Blimey - that sounds easy. What Alpine unit did you go for? Is it a neat fit? Would you recommend Halfords for this?

They must be the 18" wheels. That colour combo is fab Thanks for the info. I take it the car is on 15mm shorter springs and the wheels have 20mm spacers. Whatever set up you have it works.

I see you've had a wheel change. What are the wheels on your car now? They look fab! I'm getting my third Z next week. It's an 07 Azure convertible and I'm looking for the same colour finish that you have on your wheels as it's lush with Azure. I think the car I'm buying has 18" wheels in silver that look similar in design to yours.

Thanks Mike. Do you know if there is a release catch or something like that to enable me to lift the seat of the rails or is there a straight forward way of getting to the cables? I need all the help I can get here as I can get one hand under the seat but not both as needed to reseat the connectors. Cheers, Damien.

It's okay when my wife sits in the car but not when i sit in the car. As I'm several stone heavier than her this must be the root cause. I need to diet!

Okay, further testing has confirmed that when I'm sat in the drivers seat, the windows and the seat motors do not operate on either side. If I stand outside the car with all other factors equal, the seat motors and window motors do work. There are loads of cables and connectors under the seat and I've wiggled them all but the fault remains. It must go back to the main dealer I suppose. Any other ideas?

Thanks Husky. One other factor is I can get a buzzing sound like the window motor is trying hard but not getting enough current and I get relay clicking from the seat motor switches. So there are 3 states: not working at all, nearly working and working but from outside the car. From a state of not working the ignition needs to be switched off and on again before it starts working again. I'm going to get under the seat with a torch and wiggle the cables as per your recommendation Thanks.

Ok this is a funny one but irritating too. I have an 08 roadster GT pack and the windows and seat motors don't operate when I'm sat in the car. If I'm out of the car the seats operate and with the ignition on, the windows operate too. Does the supply to the windows go via the seats? Could it be a loom fault? I've wiggled the fuses and the battery terminals etc. Any ideas are gratefully appreciated.

Go for it. :-)

It's a JDM import but a good spec. The wheels are GT4 - standard on the continent and special order in the UK. Price is high.

A Thatcham approved alarm will have been fitted as part of the import regs. You should find it sufficient. My JDM alarm and immobiliser was great. I'm not sure about the keys but I'm sure someone here will be along soon to help you.

With the standard wheels I think that 15mm spacers on the front are best and 20mm on the back. I have 20mm spacers all round from Cs but the fronts are a tad too far out. Makes more of a mess of the sides of the car with splatter and spray on the wings and doors etc. Other than that there are no issues with traction control etc. As Ian asked, there is no way of knowing how your new wheels will look without knowing the offsets. If you have ordered the correct offsets with your new rims you will not need the spacers. Damien.

Ooh not heard of that one. Clicking from the rear axles when going round corners in reverse is common but not grinding sounds. At least they are across the problem and it is easily repeatable. You will definitely know if it's fixed. I wish you all the best. Damien.

Out of curiosity what are the problems your car is having mate?

Yep that's about the right price. My 02 JDM with 60k went for £8000 and it was immaculate with a few mods too - Alpine (ipod), pop charger etc. I've seen several sub £8k z's on Piston heads. It's time to grab a bargain.

Thanks to choptop for his excellent planning and arrangements. The run out to Brecon was fun and I even made it back to Bristol in time to avoid grief on the domestic front. I had just fitted my dual pop charger and I was really pleased with the sound above 3000 rpm, especially under load. I think it is louder than my last 02 GT with the single pop charger, but not twice as loud. With the gorgeous 08 exhaust note and the JWT Pops my Z now sounds purrfect No need for an after market exhaust now. I'll go and recce a photoshoot session next weekend and report back with some test pictures and options for a group photoshoot get together.

This is an interesting thread. Obviously there is an element of copyright abuse but it seems that the new badges go beyond the original with styles, colours and finishes. That makes them more desirable on quite a few of our car colours than the red badge. If the price point was set higher too then the TK badges would be the poor mans alternative. If the new badges were of similar quality and I had a blue Z I'd want the new badge. Especially with the 3 square detail. If this was my project, I'd have changed the font to avoid copyright, The best 'Z' logo would be the original Nissan one anyway. It's on the steering wheel etc and looks great. If that was available as a big 3d letter but in a body colour matching combo it would be a massive hit and I'm sure Nissan would turn a blind eye. I see a market for a unique set of Z badge options that are copyright free and can be sold globally in exact paint colour matched versions and as a complete set for wheel hubs, wings, bonnet and boot at £100 a set. But without the ideal alternative this project has opened the door for us 350Z owners who want to have a bit of unique bling. I personally don't like the horizontal bit in the middle of the TK badge, it's pointless. The 350 Z has clean crisp lines and the TK badge design is totally out of character. I put my name down for one of these new replica badges but I'm now going to wait for a better alternative. It will come, I'm sure. I wish the Likwid art badge project well and I can't wait to see them on members cars soon.