Rob_Quads

The signs of someone who has been playing with thier car stereo - scratched up hands lol. To post pictures just attach them at the bottom of the postreply window

Good luck with the sale mate. Car looks really nice in the flesh. With a slightly subtler spoiler would look ace. Would love a few carbon bits and those wheels on mine lol Thanks to the low millage its not a bad price. NOTE - Just followed the link - you sold it / removed it?

OK So we don't buy from ESSO or BP - get it from all the others like Tescos etc. of which a majority actually buy thier petrol from ESSO & BP so its pointless

Wise move making the change in sub & components. With that kit you should be really pleased with the way it sounds. Just hope Source is up to it.

Looks good. Interesting times. Gives you an idea of how impressed the new GTR is, it would be right up there straight out the showroom.

Very much doubt its for brake cooling. The wheel arches would need a fair old redesign to let decent amount of air through to the brakes. Can't remember which but one of the old jap aftermaket companies used to produce a bumper like that for the civic? supra?

Still don't like those stupid looking teeth on the bumper. Not sure what they have done on the boot as well. Looks like they have made the boot lid smaller as the sides are now part of the car. Hope they have updated the interior and put things like automatic wipers etc in. All things that will not cost or weight anything (well 10g and maybe 10p) but to keep up with the likes of the TT (which IMO is a great looking car now)

Is that using the onboard trip computer? If so don't count on it I have found it to be rarely right. Only real way of doing it fill up before you start, fill up after and work it out from miles covered over petrol put in.

Take a look at somewhere like www.qiq.co.uk - its only £18 per year for hosting and it will give you plenty space and bandwidth.

Some good look bits. You really like your HDR don't you. You can't been giving a computer a few images and it turning out a stunning result. BTW your web site side not work (the http://www.arphotographs.com/ one)

If you stick to 70ish I recon around 33ish. I get around 28/30ish on my long motorway runs sitting at 80 on cruise control My average since I bought the car is 22.65 over 13000 miles

No supprise - give us £200 back but oh I'll have that back thank you very much

The standard aerial does have a booster on it. Its located in the left hand side of the boot behind the plastic panels

Its a fairly simple process. Here are a couple bits I did to my old cars around 4/5 years ago. At the time I did not lacquer them as the shine off the resin was good enough.

If its down on the list of items that should be completed as part of the P3 then IMO it should have been done. If they did not do it go and have a word with the people who serviced the car and ask them why not.

Ah - the gel stuff is 100 times better than the spray. I would expect Blackfire to be much better than the Megs Spray. Would be interesting to see how it compares to the gel.

What do you prefer about it over Megs? Sounds like the shine wore off very easily if all it took was a day out driving and some rain?

Yes it will be improved with non-nissan paint. The paint used on the 350z seems to be fairly thin and fairly soft (well it chips very easily) If you have it resprayed and get it baked off nicely then chances are you are much less likely to have stone chips. You will still get some but not the silly numbers that the standard paint gives [That said the design of the front end does not help]

Had a couple of Canon IXUS range and have been great for me. My brother has also had a couple of them and loves them. Recently also had A1 after-service from canon My old IXUS which I gave to my parents just died. It was over 5 years old and had been dropped on concrete/laminate, taken snowboarding etc. Survived loads of abuse but ultimately its time was up. It appeared it might have a problem some of Canon cameras have had so on the off chance sent it off to the canon repair people. It was worth nothing but they rang me to say spares were hard to get so how would an refurbed IXUS 70 do instead. This is a current range 7.1 MP camera instead of an old trashed camera. 4 days after sending mine off I had the replacement and it was fully boxed with all the accessories and everything looked as good as new. Now will aways buy canon again.

2nd for focal speakers. That said there is only so much you can do with a bogo clarion sorry Bose headunit

for referance roughly how much was the Nismo exhaust?

£400 on a Audiobahn Sub You almost could pick up a JL W7 for that! Did you look at the likes of Audison / DLS / Genesis for Amps? Did you look at the likes of Focal / Hertz?

No offence but what made you go for those audio items? You seem to have really gone for what its very run of the mill stuff. How much did you spend on these 2xAlpine Amps 1x 10" Audiobahn 3000W competition subwoofer 2 X Infinitly 16.5cm speakers & tweeters 2 X JL audio 16.5cm

Sounds like you were very lucky. Annoyingly if you are buying privately then its up to the buyer to ask the question. Only then does the seller need to tell you BUT if you are buying from trade by law they are meant to tell you its a cat x

The ideal prep for this work includes taking off the tires. Many people can easily do this so this guide will include keeping the tires on. What do you need to refurbish the wheels [*:39oym9bi]Masking Tape [*:39oym9bi]Various Sandpapers (200/400/800 Grit) [*:39oym9bi]Metalik Filler [*:39oym9bi]White Spirit/Panel Wipe [*:39oym9bi]Clear Lacquer [*:39oym9bi]Strato Silver Paint (I used Halfords paint and had no issues with it) Some of the damage I am looking to repair can be seen below The first step is to CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. The aim is to get rid of all forms of wax or sealants from the wheels. Don't go using any nice and friendly car wash soap like Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo as this is wax friendly. Use something like Fairly liquid which will have a good go at removing any remaining waxes. Also some panel wipe etc can help. This is one of the most important steps. Don't do this and you might find all your hard work wasted when the paint just flakes off. The next step is to start masking up the wheel. How you do this depends on how severe the damage is. This example will be for light damage - later will show how to do some heaver damage. First lets tape up the outside the rim i.e. the tyre. I normally put a layer of 2" tape around the edge against the tyre and then just use some newspaper beyond that. The next step is to tape the inside of the rim. As we only have minor damage to the rim we will only need to tape it up once. If the most of the rim is curbed its best to repair it all. I only have 3 sections on the first wheel so will only tape up them. Take the tape around the rim with around 50% of the tap exposed with the sticky side facing out from the rim. Do this all the way round the rim and then use some paper and stick it to the exposed part of the rim all the way round. This should result is the middle part of the wheel all being taped up. All taped up ready to go. The next step is to try and remove any damage we can without filling. Start by using some 400 grit sandpaper round. This will start to remove a lot of the small nicks. The main bits to concentrate on are where the metal has been pushed proud of the rim. Once you have been all the way around the rim use some white spirit to clean up the surface. Now you should be able to see (and feel) where you still need more work Below you can see that now the actual surface is fairly smooth with only a couple minor issues Time for the filler - I use Metalik as its designed for use on metals and can even be polished. Mix up a very small amount of it to use. If at any time you find it becomes sticky and starting to solidify stop using it and make up a fresh mix. Now take the filler and put small dabs/smear it around the areas you need filled in. Now sit and wait for to to full cure. Once cure (around an hour at most if the Metalik was mixed properly) its time to start sanding with the 400 again. Hopefully after this step you should have a near smooth rim. If you haven't go round the filling and sanding process again. Before painting we want to make sure we get rid of any of the small scratches so go around the lip again with some 800 grit paper. Once done again use some panel wipe/white spirit to clean up the lip and remove and dirt. Below you can see a section all filled and smoothed ready for paint Time to start spraying. First check that all the tape is still in place. Normally through the sanding process you will have dislodge some so make sure its all sealed up. You don't want overspray on bits of the wheel that don't need it. Start by putting down a very light coat of paint and leave it to dry for 15/20 minutes, then repeat another couple times. Before starting each new coat start to pull the tape on the inside of the rim back a mm or so. This should help reduce any obvious join line/ colour difference. Below is photo after 3 light coats After 3/4 layers you should not be able to see any of the repairs and should have a fairly consistent colour. Now pull the tape back another 3-4 mm and look around the rim for anywhere that needs a bit more colour or where an obvious join is. If you see an obvious edge, pull the tape back another few mill giving around a cm free and give it a little spray - just enough to blend in the paint and have no obvious line. Now let that dry off for 15/20 minutes and its time to lacquer the paint. Same process as before, again moving the tape slightly after each later. 3 layers should give good protection. The next step is to let the paint dry off. It will normally be touch dry within a few hours but paint takes quite a lone time to fully cure, often taking weeks depending on the weather. As a result of this if you can afford the time I would recommend leaving the wheels somewhere nice and warm if possible for a good few days. This gives the paint a chance to really harden up before being subjected to the dirt of the road (the saltier the roads the easier it is to damage the paint) No more curbings left Before refitting the wheels give them a nice good wax with something nice and durable like Collinite 915. Wax the complete wheel - inside and out and if possible a 2nd layer after 24h will help make it last that bit longer Final step - Refit the wheels. While doing this remember not to put your wheels anywhere they might fall over. You don't want to destroy your good work before they are even on the car! More Severe Damage If you have more severe curbings then you will have to re-tape it before painting as chances are the tape will get scuffed and there will be a lot of sanding dust etc. The first time you tape it up just lay the tape down around the part of the rim that faces out. This is just to stop you catching the face with some sandpaper which would mark it very easily. You will probably have to put much thicker layers of filler on if you have a badly curbed wheel, specially if you want to regain the rounded edge. Its also worth starting on a lower grade sandpaper to get rid of the main markings. 240 should start to remove most bits fairly quickly. If not 180 and lower can be used but be aware the lower grade you use the more work you will have to get rid of any scratch marks. With severely curbed rims you are more likely to have to sand back the metal which has been moved proud of the standard rim lip. The picture below shows some of the damage on the worst of my rims After sanding before any filling Filled Sanded All painted. A nice round lip again [i realise some of these pics are not of exactly the same area of rim but they are good enough ] So in summary my biggest Tips are [*:39oym9bi] Clean Clean Clean - Make sure there is no wax\sealant left on the wheels [*:39oym9bi] Spray in small layers - Don't layer it on thick [*:39oym9bi] When spraying [move the tape before the next layer [*:39oym9bi] Let the paint harden & dry before subjecting to the weather Hopefully this guide will be of some use to people out there. Any questions just fire away. One last pic. For those wondering how if you can fit 4 standard wheels in a 350z - Easy. 1 in the boot, 3 in the front