Chris`I

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Vielside+V1+350z You spelt Veilside wrong

Just a side note, but it may be worthwhile using the courier service offered by BundleBox ( viewtopic.php?f=13&t=27591 ), owned by captint on here. Would be a good chance to try it out, and make the second lot of 10 a lot easier to ship too I would expect We've been looking for an excuse to try it out and see how it works, meant to be easier than Adam sending it direct.

Didnt MartinW have a similar problem which turned out to be low coolant or something? Maybe try pinging him a PM

Yes thats how slipper clutches work. There is no resistance to engine braking - ie if engine is spinning slower than wheels, it will just let the clutch "slip" so that it doesnt lock the back wheels up. Thats why its used in motorbikes as engine braking in bikes can easily lock the back wheel. Not really worth it in a car. hmm my own experience on track on bike with slipper clutch is that it slowly engage the clutch with the engine; engine braking still occurs but the rear wheel doesn't lockup. I need to investigate this further btw, tried a heal toe downshift earlier today... lol think I'll do it on closed road the next time... This should help - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Slipper_clutch

Which Zstore? The US one or the UK one? If its the UK on, try PMing "Chilli Red", she'll sort you out

Might still take Adam a couple of weeks to get them in stock Rich

Its called saving money. Make stuff out of steel instead of Alu and it becomes a whole lot cheaper to produce and why the Zed is so much cheaper than the competition. Still drives better than the Z4!

Why not? It just extends out where the normal pedal stops. If you have no problem heel/toe-ing now, it will be no different really. For me it just took out some of the twist I had to use in my ankle

Yes thats how slipper clutches work. There is no resistance to engine braking - ie if engine is spinning slower than wheels, it will just let the clutch "slip" so that it doesnt lock the back wheels up. Thats why its used in motorbikes as engine braking in bikes can easily lock the back wheel. Not really worth it in a car.

Hang on I'll ask Amanda says she doesnt like the pimped out one But she does like the titanium finished Rays

You think that until you are bitten by them like I was. Even if they have torque limiters, they should be torquing it in a star pattern progressively. Never going straight to the max torque or round in a circle as most high volume (Quick fit, etc etc) places do

Lets hope they had some kind of torque limiter on there then or did it properly by just nipping them up and finishing off with a torque wrench

Did you do it with a gun or by hand? By hand you wont have been ablet overtighten it much - unless you used something like a 3ft breaker bar! Its the guns on full power that are the problem

Last time I got a puncture repaired they did the bolts up with a gun. When I came to remove the wheel again, I snapped my 1/4" to 3/8" adapter trying to get it off it was that tight. Took it to my trusted wheel place and we had to put their gun on full power to get it off. I dread to think how much torque had been put on the nut Torque wrench all the way, with incremental increases in torque is the best way to do it

Please dont use a wheel/air gun to do the bolts up. You might overtighten them and worst case overload the bolts causing them to sheer or best case make them too tight to ever remove! Torque them up as you would a normal wheel, as per the specs they supply

Looks like the Varis Tis indeedy.

I think last time, the price per unit didnt change, its just the savings you make for postage. Also could be more likely to be hit with customs if you have a massive box of say 30 pedals vs a smaller one for 10

Hang on I'll ask

I assume you mean cant (typo). I'll ask the missus if more camber gets the chicks, I think she might disagree

Is the duplicate post just to make sure we are clear?

As all the cars are differnt ever so slightly, anything more than a 20-30mm drop may require the kit. What this depends on is (a) the car and ( how bothered you are to run stock camber. With the kit, the car may have enough adjustment to get it back to stock, it may not. If it doesnt and you are not bothered about running more than OEM camber (which is quite a lot of people) then you should fit the kit to keep it in spec, but you dont have to. If you want to retain stock camber/toe and the car cant be adjusted back to stock you must fit the kit to solve it. It depends on if you are bothered about potentially running more camber than stock or not really.

never heard that one before, was it fitted properly, sounds like a leak to me I have heard of it before in the US, but cant fort he life of me remember what the problem was. I suggest anyone having this problem searches here and my350z for the answer. It shouldnt happen, but as I say, I have heard of it before.

Good man

You'd need to get a proper lawyer to read the contract I would expect. As soon as its signed on your behalf then you are bound to it AFAIK, but I guess its not legally binding until both parties have signed it. This is why I always get the client to sign the contract and send the copies to me, rather than the other way around. There must be some "Termination" terms in the contract, and it would be those I would be looking at very carefully. In the case of my last contract, both parties had the right to terminate the contract without notice before the contract start date. Im sure someone more knoledgable will be along shortly, but if not, try one of the many contractors forums, they will answer your questions quickly, but a lot of it will be down to the terms of contract

Ekona: Good feedback on the body bracing The reports I had heard before said it didnt do a lot for on the road. I beleive KW V3s lower the car by 20-30mm at their highest, so unfortunately I guess they would be out of the OPs specs. Not sure how much (if anything) BCs lower it, but they could be a good shout.